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  • Homemade Sync Tool - Need Input

    So I've had plans to make this sync tool of a long time now and I finally got around to putting it together but it's not working right. I have restrict it's in the lines but I must have a leak because only after a couple of seconds of ruunning the fluid attempts to pass through the restrictive and go to #1 or #2 carbs. Is it possible the carbs could be so far out of balance it could empty one or two of the other lines?



    Restrictor:


    Anyone make one of these and use it with success?
    '79 XS11 F
    Stock except K&N

    '79 XS11 SF
    Stock, no title.

    '84 Chevy K-10 "Big Blue"
    GM 350, Muncie SM465, NP208, GM 10 Bolt with 3.42gears turnin 31x10.5 Baja Claws

    "What they do have is an implacable, unrelenting presence and movement that bespeaks massive power lurking behind paint and chrome. They don't wail like a screeching ninja, the don't rumble like a harley. They just growl like a spactic, stressed out badger waiting to rip your face off and eat your soul." Trainzz~RIP~

  • #2
    So I've relearned a couple of things since my last post and thought I would share incase anyone else has interest in making their own tool.

    1st, the tool in my picture would work just fine if my carbs were close to being synced already.

    Unfortunately my carbs must be more than a few psi off. And when your way off you need a substantial length of vertical house so the fluid doesn't flow into the dominant carb. (14.7" of water is 1 psi IIRC)

    2nd, if you have enough differential and one or all of the legs gives up all of it's fluid to the dominant leg you probably need to start with a bench sync.

    3rd, there's a better alternative than the tool I pictured. It's a little more elaborate but if built properly it won't allow you to suck up any fluid.

    This is the next tool I'm going to try.
    http://youtu.be/0HfrHLmpHCY
    Last edited by WMarshy; 06-17-2015, 07:32 PM.
    '79 XS11 F
    Stock except K&N

    '79 XS11 SF
    Stock, no title.

    '84 Chevy K-10 "Big Blue"
    GM 350, Muncie SM465, NP208, GM 10 Bolt with 3.42gears turnin 31x10.5 Baja Claws

    "What they do have is an implacable, unrelenting presence and movement that bespeaks massive power lurking behind paint and chrome. They don't wail like a screeching ninja, the don't rumble like a harley. They just growl like a spactic, stressed out badger waiting to rip your face off and eat your soul." Trainzz~RIP~

    Comment


    • #3
      Well, Marshy, you are about half right.
      1 PSI is 27.6799048425 inches of water.
      Most vacuum gages are calibrated in inches of mercury, usually to 30 inches, which is 14.7 PSI, the standard atmospheric pressure at sea level.
      Which means that if you draw 30 inches of mercury, you have close to a complete vacuum.


      CZ

      Comment


      • #4
        You should use the plastic valves from an aquarium shop for the restricter. You REALLY need a very small hole for the air. IF you use 4 valves, you can shut down all the way if one carb is dominant.
        Me, I spent about $120 on a set of 4 gauges with adapters that will fit almost any multi-carb vehicle. But then, that was a few years ago as well.....
        Ray Matteis
        KE6NHG
        XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
        XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by CaptonZap View Post
          Well, Marshy, you are about half right.
          1 PSI is 27.6799048425 inches of water.
          Most vacuum gages are calibrated in inches of mercury, usually to 30 inches, which is 14.7 PSI, the standard atmospheric pressure at sea level.
          Which means that if you draw 30 inches of mercury, you have close to a complete vacuum.

          CZ
          Thanks for the correction, I was second guessing myself on that number. It's been a while since I've had to convert between the two.

          The main point is if your only 1 psi off you still need sticks that are 2 ft. I'm going to bet that it's easy to be more than 1-2 psi off if you don't start with a bench sync.

          Unfortunately, the tool I made is only about 2 ft tall. I use to have 4 hoses about 6 ft long but one came up missing when I put this together the other day so I just cut two of the hoses in half. The good news is once I have them close and want to do a quick tune up I shoul be able to use this tool still.
          '79 XS11 F
          Stock except K&N

          '79 XS11 SF
          Stock, no title.

          '84 Chevy K-10 "Big Blue"
          GM 350, Muncie SM465, NP208, GM 10 Bolt with 3.42gears turnin 31x10.5 Baja Claws

          "What they do have is an implacable, unrelenting presence and movement that bespeaks massive power lurking behind paint and chrome. They don't wail like a screeching ninja, the don't rumble like a harley. They just growl like a spactic, stressed out badger waiting to rip your face off and eat your soul." Trainzz~RIP~

          Comment


          • #6
            A bit off-topic but is there an advantage to using a liquid or mercury style gauge as opposed to vacuum? I've always been pretty happy with the vacuum sync. Just curious if I'm missing out on something. Specs are + or - 2in/hg on the current multi-carb bike I own and getting my old XS to idle like a kitten with the vacuum gauge never was a problem.

            That is a cool project, though. Great way to save $$$ instead of forking it out for an aftermarket fluid gauge. Good grief those things can get spendy.
            1990 Ninja ZX-10. It's the Silver Surfer. HI-YA!!

            2006 Yamaha XT-225. Yep, I take it on the interstate. It's Blue Butt.

            1982 Toyota 4x4. 22R Cammed, 38/38, 2" pipe, 20R head with OS valves, performance grind and other fun stuff. It's Blue RASPberry.

            1969 Ford F-250 Camper Special resto project. 390 RV cam, Demon carb, Sanderson headers, 2 and a quarter pipes with Magnaflow mufflers. It's Blue Jay.

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by jimbyjimb View Post
              A bit off-topic but is there an advantage to using a liquid or mercury style gauge as opposed to vacuum? ....
              Liquid-filled and mercury gauges never have to be calibrated and they can be easier to read than dial gauges.

              On the down side, it's possible to slurp the contents into the engine. If it's just water or ATF it's no big deal. If it's mercury, try not to breathe. If you were working in the garage instead of outside, everything in it now has a fine mercury coating on it. Mercury's good for getting rid of yourself, children, insects, pets, small animals and people that never return things when they borrow them.

              .
              -- Scott
              _____
              ♬
              2004 ST1300A: No name... yet
              1982 XJ1100J: "Baby" SS Brakes, '850 FD, ACCT
              1980 XS1100G: "Columbo" SS Brakes, '850 FD, ACCT
              1979 XS1100SF: "Bush" W.I.P.
              1979 XS1100F: parts
              2018 Heritage Softail Classic 117 FLHCS SE: "Nanuk" It's DEAD, it's not just resting. It is an EX cycle.
              ♬

              Comment


              • #8
                The only savings is the cost, the downside is the hassle of learning the tricks to it. Also something to consider is water filled are technically more accurate than mercury filled. If your within an inch on all 4 with a water filled sticks vs an inch with mercury filled sticks there is less psi differential because mercury is heavier per inch of column than water.

                Those actually have #2 fuel oil in them because I didn't have anything colored I could use. Only issue is it smells when you spill it or get it on you.
                '79 XS11 F
                Stock except K&N

                '79 XS11 SF
                Stock, no title.

                '84 Chevy K-10 "Big Blue"
                GM 350, Muncie SM465, NP208, GM 10 Bolt with 3.42gears turnin 31x10.5 Baja Claws

                "What they do have is an implacable, unrelenting presence and movement that bespeaks massive power lurking behind paint and chrome. They don't wail like a screeching ninja, the don't rumble like a harley. They just growl like a spactic, stressed out badger waiting to rip your face off and eat your soul." Trainzz~RIP~

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by WMarshy View Post
                  Thanks for the correction, I was second guessing myself on that number. It's been a while since I've had to convert between the two.

                  The main point is if your only 1 psi off you still need sticks that are 2 ft. I'm going to bet that it's easy to be more than 1-2 psi off if you don't start with a bench sync.

                  Unfortunately, the tool I made is only about 2 ft tall. I use to have 4 hoses about 6 ft long but one came up missing when I put this together the other day so I just cut two of the hoses in half. The good news is once I have them close and want to do a quick tune up I shoul be able to use this tool still.
                  A nice, quick DIY there Wade. If your base fluid holding piece was larger with more capacity, meaning all tubes filled at least three quarters way up and fluid holding piece still has a bit of fluid in it, what you had happen wouldn't.
                  81H Venturer1100 "The Bentley" (on steroids) 97 Yamaha YZ250(age reducer) 92 Honda ST1100 "Twisty"(touring rocket) Age is relative to the number of seconds counted 'airing' out an 85ft. table-top.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I built the SAME one about 4 years ago. Same problem as you. Never could keep it from sucking in air somewhere. Also one or 2 carbs really lifting the ATF quickly. I ended up just using one long 3/8 tube in a "U" shape with smaller tubes jammed into the ends of the single "U" that hook to the ports in the intake. I just sync the carbs in PAIRS now. I'm NOT using any restricters either. Just clear vinyl tubing.


                    ATF in the tube works fine for me. If you get one carb that's really pulling hard, shut the engine off and adjust the sync screw a bit and try again.

                    Once you get the engine synced, future syncings are MUCH closer and easier.
                    1) Fire up Internet Explorer
                    2) http://www.yahoo.com
                    3) type "www.mapquest.com" into the Yahoo search page.
                    4) go about day as VP managing multi-million dollar financial contracts.

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                    • #11
                      BTW folks, mercury used in a MANOMETER, and corresponding in.vac. calibrations associated with it IS what all other types of manometers,fluids, and calibrations are based on, not water. As has been and always will.
                      81H Venturer1100 "The Bentley" (on steroids) 97 Yamaha YZ250(age reducer) 92 Honda ST1100 "Twisty"(touring rocket) Age is relative to the number of seconds counted 'airing' out an 85ft. table-top.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I bought one of these. it will be a bit before I get to try it, but simple construction and might be an easier diy.

                        http://m.ebay.com/itm/331583591418
                        '81 XS11H Venturer - holed up in storage while life happened since 07/08/04
                        '81 Kawasaki KE175 enduro - 63 mph of smokey fun, now with collector plates!

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          success

                          Anyone make one of these and use it with success?

                          Yes.
                          The tubing is very long. height I needed was 16 to 18 feet. Basketball goal including back board was not quite tall enough. It was too easy for water to pass peak and continue down into engine. I think this may have cleaned the carbon deposits out of cylinders. Side of house- about 2 stories was plenty high. I used 2 hoses and spliced some black vacuum hose to fit on carb connections (clear hose can melt through easily if it touches pipes etc.) Different diameter size of tubing affected how quickly level changed, but not vacuum or lift. I used water with a little food coloring added. Green, red or blue is easier to see than clear or light colors. 2 different colors, with one clear hose in each container, helped me keep up with which one Was high etc. No need to mark length or height of hoses, just adjust to match the two to the same lift elevation of the water. Directions in manual are clear enough as to how to use 2 hoses, gauges etc; match carb 4 to 3. 1 to 2. then 2 to 3. (1 moves with 2) check & repeat if needed.

                          I found medical tubing for oxygen patients to work well. It has some ribs inside the tubing designed to prevent kinking, but most any clear tubing from hardware or building supply could work.

                          For me; Cheap, easy to use, accurate. It did take me a long time to figure it out. I like it.
                          BUT - if you had to buy a ladder, if you fell off the roof, if you accidentally started a Christmas decorating project with red & green columns of water...
                          YRMV

                          Good luck wrenching
                          PS (I have got the Santa on Harley inflatable decoration removed from the top of my garage now)
                          It is a great big beautiful world out there
                          Brent in GA
                          Yamaha 80XS1100SG, HD Firefighter Special Edition 02 Road King, Honda 450 rat, 08 Buell 1125R tour modified, 83 goldwing parts bike gone-traded for XJ1100, 2014 HD electraglide police

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Thanks, I ended using my mighty vac gauge on my vacuum tool. That got me close enough for now. I might drain the fuel oil out of the sticks and put some trans fluid in it. I'm going to get some better connections that go from the clear hose to the black automotive vac lines I hook to the ports.
                            '79 XS11 F
                            Stock except K&N

                            '79 XS11 SF
                            Stock, no title.

                            '84 Chevy K-10 "Big Blue"
                            GM 350, Muncie SM465, NP208, GM 10 Bolt with 3.42gears turnin 31x10.5 Baja Claws

                            "What they do have is an implacable, unrelenting presence and movement that bespeaks massive power lurking behind paint and chrome. They don't wail like a screeching ninja, the don't rumble like a harley. They just growl like a spactic, stressed out badger waiting to rip your face off and eat your soul." Trainzz~RIP~

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              ATF (red)

                              I was going to point out that you could use ATF or kerosene in them which will not matter if it gets wheezed into the engine.

                              Personally, I bought one of those 4 dial gauges although I have yet to try it out. Space keeps shrinking in my shop out back but the side roof project is almost done.
                              79 SF & 80 LG MNS
                              73 & 74 RD 350's
                              73 Honda CL 450
                              Graveyard - '81 XS850 Special

                              All of my bikes are projects, maybe one day I'll have them running.

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