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**natemoen** · 06-14-2015, 10:14 AM

I would start out cleaning all the connectors related to the charging circuit (and every other connector on the bike for that matter). They like to get dirty and that causes them to over heat and melt.

Your high rpms once warm is a symptom of the carbs are not in sync.

**FatCat12** · 06-14-2015, 09:54 PM

Cleaning electrical connections

Even with the multimeter readings, would you suggest cleaning rather than replacing reg/rect immediately? Also, although I only disconnected what was necessary for the testing, the connections didn't look bad from purely visual inspection? Are there other connections to look for besides what I found behind the fuse block? What is used to clean theses connections? ( I thought I read dioxit - though since I haven't found that yet, I imagine I am remembering wrong or misread)
And the high revving isn't just when warm, from what I have seen. I can let it sit and warm and it settles and idles fine, I can ride a short bit, and fine, but on the two times it ran extended ( parking lot practice) when clutching to shift or when sitting in neutral it would over rev, but if I killed and restarted it idled fine. And even during this, it sometimes pulled itself down to comfortable idle revs. ( I may be wrong , but thought possible electrical fluctuations dismissing the need?)

**jwhughes3** · 06-15-2015, 05:33 AM

These bikes have nothing to control throttle except your right hand and fuel circuit. If you are revving without twisting, its got to be dirty carbs or stuck/misrouted throttle cable (if misrouted it can rev when bars are pulling cable tight in a turn).

Bike won't know or care about charge condition so that won't affect revs.

Good luck.

John

**FatCat12** · 06-15-2015, 07:15 PM

Thank you, John.

That does ultimately answer the question I originally had, but with the recommendation to clean connections, I am unsure of immediately replacing the regulator... And how to clean electrical connections. I plan to look around the forums for how to clean, but should I just replace the part or not?

Thanks both again,
Rob.

**DiverRay** · 06-15-2015, 07:33 PM

CRC electrical cleaner will help, and no-ox can be had from good parts houses or music stores. Clean ALL connection, and I use ant-seize on ALL the ground connections, as it works as well as anything else, and is cheaper and easier to find. Don't forget to check the three prong connector at the ignition switch. Also, while it's disconnected, check the resistance of the switch itself. If the reading is above two Ohms, you can CAREFULLY take the switch apart and clean the contacts. That MAY be part of the problem.

**BowlingSS** · 06-16-2015, 08:35 AM

Originally posted by FatCat12 View Post

Thank you, John.

That does ultimately answer the question I originally had, but with the recommendation to clean connections, I am unsure of immediately replacing the regulator... And how to clean electrical connections. I plan to look around the forums for how to clean, but should I just replace the part or not?

Thanks both again,
Rob.

I would wait until you clean/check all the connectors and grounds.

Bill

**FatCat12** · 06-18-2015, 10:05 PM

Well,
I made it back to my bike with a can of CRC QD Electric Cleaner.
It is/was dark, and my flood light couldn't seemed to stay positioned well enough to help or hide all the shadows i was casting.
I was able to clean as many connections as i could find behind the fuse panel (particularly 3 white/yellow and green brown). All the connections looked fine to begin with, and looked the same after the use of cleaner. I didn't or wasn't able to follow to ground or really do any further cleaning. Nor did i find a 3 prong connector at ignition switch... I have come to realize that my bike may need more electrical attention than i had expected... but all my multimeter readings remained the same after cleaning... proper ohms and volts where they should be except while running - where green should be 9+ it is between .8-1.1 .
i did notice that while tail light did dim as the bike idled, it brightened when revved and seemed to hold light (charge) for some time, but still no tach or headlight.

anyway, this is more of a personal update, with intentions to further exploring the electrical during daylight, or with proper lighting. though, i must say, if i knew that a new regulator would solve my problems i would prefer the plug and play (ride) solution.

a few side notes, if anyone caring to comment could help:
neither headlight nor tach were working when i bought the bike, though PO claimed they worked previous day before he installed new battery (really no reason to doubt, he was rather open about the bike from what i could tell).
the bike has seemingly not charged itself at all since i have had it, but starts on booster or after sitting on charger... sometime with a bit of hesitancy (starts then dies but starts right back up)

**ekim** · 06-18-2015, 11:28 PM

As others have said...
You need to locate and clean every connection on the bike. A schematic diagram is helpful. Do this before throwing money at an unknown problem.
I think everyone's bike has had some kind of electrical issue due to age.
They are not always visible - thus using the cleaner.

You said the problem started after a battery replacement.
Perhaps the battery grounding is marginal. I would remove the negative battery cable from the frame connection and aggressively clean the cable end and the frame.Use some emery cloth/fine grit sand paper and clean the cable end down to clean/bare metal.
It may have had a good connection with a corrosion build-up. This may have been disturbed when the battery was swapped.
Easy and cheap first step.

**motoman** · 06-19-2015, 12:53 AM

Originally posted by FatCat12 View Post

Well,
I made it back to my bike with a can of CRC QD Electric Cleaner.
It is/was dark, and my flood light couldn't seemed to stay positioned well enough to help or hide all the shadows i was casting.
I was able to clean as many connections as i could find behind the fuse panel (particularly 3 white/yellow and green brown). All the connections looked fine to begin with, and looked the same after the use of cleaner. I didn't or wasn't able to follow to ground or really do any further cleaning. Nor did i find a 3 prong connector at ignition switch... I have come to realize that my bike may need more electrical attention than i had expected... but all my multimeter readings remained the same after cleaning... proper ohms and volts where they should be except while running - where green should be 9+ it is between .8-1.1 .
i did notice that while tail light did dim as the bike idled, it brightened when revved and seemed to hold light (charge) for some time, but still no tach or headlight.

anyway, this is more of a personal update, with intentions to further exploring the electrical during daylight, or with proper lighting. though, i must say, if i knew that a new regulator would solve my problems i would prefer the plug and play (ride) solution.

a few side notes, if anyone caring to comment could help:
neither headlight nor tach were working when i bought the bike, though PO claimed they worked previous day before he installed new battery (really no reason to doubt, he was rather open about the bike from what i could tell).
the bike has seemingly not charged itself at all since i have had it, but starts on booster or after sitting on charger... sometime with a bit of hesitancy (starts then dies but starts right back up)

Unfortunately you have both electrical AND carb issues. Start with electrical FIRST. Rule of thumb is 'electrical before fueling'

.

**ViperRon** · 06-19-2015, 08:26 AM

One more issue with the bike revving up before you remove clean adjust anything with carbs check for vacuum leaks from hoses the boots mounting carbs etc. A vacuum leak can cause RPM to go up and if very loose at the boots can go up and down depending on warm up and moving things around. When checking the wires make sure and check the grounds not just connectors but where the wire goes into the connector check for green or white corrosion.

**FatCat12** · 06-19-2015, 09:10 PM

Hopefully quick update:

Again made it to bike with limited light... Battery terminals are shiny and clean, battery ground is now clean. Bike started on day two with no booster... Limited sputtering and great idle when warm. But still no headlight or tach, and just noticed no brake light, but turn signals and tail light are brighter than ever( and no noticeable dimming as bike ran).
No light again to do anything major... Hoping for time on Sunday.
Also, I found that removing tail fuse kills the bike but doesn't turn off tail light, and that the contacts for head fuse are corroded on one side and broke On the other. Time to replace fuse panel I think.

Thanks all... Wish I had more time for my bike to work through all this without unproductive updates. Also, although I consider myself mechanically inclined, I didn't expect my major problems to be electrical when dealing with a motorcycle. Frustrating, but not nearly enough to discourage

**natemoen** · 06-20-2015, 04:20 AM

Contact TopCat the forum admin. He sells a almost straight drop in replacement atc fuseblock. 11-12 bucks or something like that. Get that replaced. Then we can move on.

Both the headlight and the tach need the alternator to be properly working to function. The tach runs of the pulses from the alternator and the headlight has a relay in the wiring that is activated by the alternator.

**DiverRay** · 06-20-2015, 09:06 AM

Contact TopCat the forum admin. He sells a almost straight drop in replacement atc fuseblock. 11-12 bucks or something like that. Get that replaced. Then we can move on.

I'll second this!
The one thing you WILL NEED is the tool to crimp the "flag connectors" that come with the fuse block. They are needed, and a bad crimp without the proper tool is a given! Here is a link to the one I bought, as it works well, and didn't break the bank:http://www.ebay.com/itm/HEAVY-DUTY-R...item3f4d7222f4 Take it slow, and the results are worth it!

**FatCat12** · 06-21-2015, 12:31 PM

thanks all

after further review: maintenance, repair and modification are needed, and enough needs have been addressed before further evaluation can be performed.

contact has been made for acquiring certain parts with plans for others underway. if complications or questions arise during this process... I'll address them as they come, but i guess this post can be considered closed, and once further along in the resurrection of my bike, i will be back with new problems.

by the way, it did start again under its own power... then stalled (a few times, i think 3).... then started still on its own power. i haven't checked the voltage again, and i imagine the battery is becoming drained.

thanks again

rob.

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