Okay so about two days ago I slipped on some oil and dropped my bike, I don't know if that's related. I've never had any problems cranking it before, but now it won't start. When I hit the started button I can hear the solenoid clicking, but the starter isn't turning. I tried jumping the solenoid and it still wouldn't start. Right now I think that it must be the starter, but any other things I should check would be appreciated. I need my baby back on the road
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Need help xs1100 won't crank, started fine couple days ago
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Sounds like you busted a wire or glass fuse (if you still have glass fuses). Have you done any testing with a meter? Gotta do some leg work for us.
I'd take the starter wire off the solenoid and run it to the battery, along with a jumper wire from the battery to the case of the starter (remove the starter cover).
If your starter spins, pull apart your kill switch housing and do some measuring. I'd guess that drop broke a 34-year old solder connection.1979 XS1100F
2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.
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Well the kill switch is only a couple months old so I don't think it's that. But okay I'll try to wire up the starter to the battery in the morning and see if that works. I have 3 blade style fuses they're good. I believe I also have 2 glass tube fuses I forgot to check those, thanks for reminding me. It seems like the starter is getting power because I can hear it just barely trying to spin. And I don't believe it's the kill switch because when I switch it to off and hit the starter button I don't hear the click or any noise at all. Thanks for your help, hopefully wiring it up will work.XS11
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That was my first guess too. But I can't refill electrolyte if any spilled because it's an agm battery. And my headlight is very bright. Is that possible if the battery is bad? I'd doesn't dim when I hit the starter. But it had been cranking slower and slower every time I crank it after I dropped it, so maybe it's a stator problem? I think tomorrow I'll just spend the day checking everything I think might be the source of the problem.XS11
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Do you have a voltage meter? Check battery voltage. It should be >11.5
When voltage drops below 11 volts, it will crank but not start. If its below 10 it may not crank.
AGM batteries have electrolytes in an Absorbed Glass Mat and can tolerate being in a weird position.
If you had been cranking or even starting the bike but not riding it can drain the battery.
The stator is likely OK, the stock rectifier just won't really charge well until 3000 RPM. Fine if you ride but you won't typically hold that RPM in your garage long on an aircooled bike.
Charge the battery and try. Or check the handlebar switch as suggested too.
JohnJohn is in an anonymous city with an Alamo (N29.519227,W-98.678980)
Go ahead, click on the bikes - you know you want to...the electrons are ready.
'81 XS1100H - "Enterprise"
Bob Jones Custom Navy bike: Tkat brace, EBC floating rotors & SS lines, ROX pivot risers, Geezer rectifier, new 3H3 engine
"Not all treasure is silver and gold"
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Is the tip-over switch a failure point on these bikes? Wondering it it can jam or something...Steve R
'80 SG
"Fred" -- TC fuse box, stock airbox/exhaust/jets, SS brake lines, Windjammer V fairing, Cibie headlight lens, TKAT fork brace, Showa rear shocks, MikesXS emulators
Former bikes:
1973 Yamaha 125 Enduro (brother's but I 'borrowed' it a lot, usually after midnight)
1978 XS400E Red
1981 XS850 Special (Stingo)
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Re-check ALL of the electrical connections on the ENGINE. My guess is the ground from the frame to the engine may have cracked or loosened. Starting after the drop, and you slowly heat and burn whats left of the wire, then nothing. An easy test is to hook up a jumper cable from the battery neg. to the engine, and try to start it.Ray Matteis
KE6NHG
XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!
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Thanks for all the help you guys are great, glad I was able to join this site. I actually got back from a ride. I hooked a spare battery I have up to the motorcycle battery and then it cranked over. Went for a ride, let it stall out once. I had to push start it in the middle of traffic, man that was fun!! But anyway I got it back home, tried to crank it over again and nothing. Hooked the spare battery up to the motorcycle battery, and bam turned right over. So I'm assuming this must mean my 6 month old battery is bad already.XS11
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Originally posted by Brendon View PostThanks for all the help you guys are great, glad I was able to join this site. I actually got back from a ride. I hooked a spare battery I have up to the motorcycle battery and then it cranked over. Went for a ride, let it stall out once. I had to push start it in the middle of traffic, man that was fun!! But anyway I got it back home, tried to crank it over again and nothing. Hooked the spare battery up to the motorcycle battery, and bam turned right over. So I'm assuming this must mean my 6 month old battery is bad already.
First thing I would do is pull the battery, charge it fully with a battery charger compatible with AGM batteries. Second, have the battery load-tested. Whether you have an expensive Mitchtronics load tester, cheapie, or take it to your trusted auto parts store for testing. After you isolate whether it's the battery or not, next thing I would do is a simple voltage test across the battery terminals while the bike is running. After the bike warms up, check the voltage. Do you see almost 14+ volts about 3k rpm? If so, you should be good to go. If not . . .
Start with cleaning every connection on the bike from headlight to tail light. Many have recommended using Deoxit. I gotta admit, I was not too impressed with it, and I used the 100% formula. Plus, the cans are literally the size of travel hair spray. But, use what you think is best, even if it's just QD Electrical cleaner.
After you have cleaned every connection, it would be wise to test your charging systems individual components. Grab your Clymer or Shop manual and do some reading. I have not had much luck over the years with Yammy and Suzuki R/R's. I bought a Geezer R/R this year. Have not put it to full use yet with a heated vest and LED lights.
Literally, dozens of threads regarding the charging system. You could retire and spend months reading old threads.1979 XS1100F
2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.
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Lol, those "little "details" being left-out are kind of important.1979 XS1100F
2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.
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Originally posted by Brendon View PostYeah it just dawned on me when you mentioned cleaning it, I would post pictures if I could figure out how
Bill1980 XS1100 SG
Jardine Spaghetti with Harley Mufflers
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