Synthetic Oil drip

[Volant1006]

So I decided to change the oil in the old club. After poking around I read "most guys have switched to synthetic Mobil1 15w x50". I think I was previously running 20w40 that I got at the Yamaha dealer. So after draining the oil & changing the oil filter, I filled her back up. I woke up to a nice puddle this morning... The thing is leaking like a siv. I also changed the middle gear and final gear oil. I checked to make sure all the drain plugs are tight but it seems to be dripping from the engine oil drain plug and a small hex bolt next to it looked to have a gathering around it, may have been coming out from there too. Question is, if I empty out all the 15w50 oil and put 20w40 back in will I be OK? Is there any danger of a small amount of synthetic mixing with the new conventional??

[DiverRay]

Go ahead and drain the synthetic and replace it with dyno oil. Any left over will NOT hurt, so don't worry about it.
The one problem with synthetic oil is that it's TOO GOOD for an old engine. It WILL leak past every gasket and seal that isn't working as it should, and old engines are FULL of points it can leak past.
Drain plug leak is probably the copper seal. It should be replaced or annealed every time you do an oil change. If you have an aluminum seal on the plug, it MUST be changed as it will leak.

[Volant1006]

OK so you said "Drain plug leak is probably the copper seal. It should be replaced or annealed every time you do an oil change. If you have an aluminum seal on the plug, it MUST be changed as it will leak"

So does the oil drain plug bolt need to be replaced, or is there supposed to be a metal washer on it? I know when I did the middle and final gear oil the bolts had a metal washer (it was magnetic) on them. I thought it was odd that the main engine oil bolt didn't have anything, it was just the bolt.

So would I need a new drain plug bolt, or am I missing some kind of washer for it?

Thanks,
Mark

[DiverRay]

Just the missing washer. You can find one at almost any GOOD parts store for less money than the "official" one from Yamaha. I ended up with a copper washer kit from harbor freight that has sizes that work. They are all US thread sized, but are close enough for metric.

[Volant1006]

OK, Thanks. I was able to track down a washer from the Yamaha dealer. They didn't have any 20w40 oil though. I think I'm gonna try some Valvoline 20w50 conventional motorcycle oil that's at a local Walmart. Hopefully the levy holds! Thanks for the input.

[motoman]

OK, Thanks. I was able to track down a washer from the Yamaha dealer. They didn't have any 20w40 oil though. I think I'm gonna try some Valvoline 20w50 conventional motorcycle oil that's at a local Walmart. Hopefully the levy holds! Thanks for the input.

It'll work fine...and BTW, synthetic oil use DID NOT come from this site or members.

[TopCatGr58]

OK, Thanks. I was able to track down a washer from the Yamaha dealer. They didn't have any 20w40 oil though. I think I'm gonna try some Valvoline 20w50 conventional motorcycle oil that's at a local Walmart. Hopefully the levy holds! Thanks for the input.

And just to add a little more, many folks also use the WALMART brand of 20/50 oil vs. any brand name with good results. Due to the excessive clearances of the engine, rings, the oil gets contaminated fairly quickly, and so many folks change the oil every 2-3k miles anyways, so the cheaper WallyWorld stuff is just fine.

T.C.

[jetmechmarty]

Replace the drain plug washers with copper ones. Anneal them every time you pull the plug. That means heat them to red hot. It wouldn't hurt to install the plug to specified torque with a torque wrench. They'll last a long time.

Valvoline 20W50 works great. Synthetic motorcycle oil works great for me too. As you noted, synthetic is pretty good at finding failed seals.

[donebysunday]

WW oil

just purchased, $10.60 a gallon 15-40w diesel oil, good with gears, Cat approved, no friction modifiers.
I know about annealing these washers but years ago got a tip to use anti-seize on these copper oil plug washers. Of course you get a little anti-seize on the threads, never had a leak, never annealed since.

[Bonz]

Hey, ya'll should show a little love here... It isn't the synthetic oil, the drain plug didn't have a washer! Geez.

Decades ago, when syn oils came out, yes they caused/contributed to leaks around gaskets because additive packages were not the same as Dino oil. That was sorted decades ago as well. Current additive packages are the same and for a fact M1 15w-50 (and most all M1 synthetics, along with Castrol Calvoline, Pennzoil) are just high grade DINO oil base stocks, meaning they are the same as Super Tech, just a purer form which resists degradation in extremes of temp and use. Go look it up, true story!

I love synthetic oil in my bikes, I run the M1 15w-50. Have done used oil analysis and the stuff holds grade really well and flashpoint stays high too. Both are good for a hot running air cooled engine, and the oil flows well at low temps after sitting for weeks or more for peace of mind when I start it up in the winter on a freezing but sunny day to go for a ride after waiting for snow to melt.

I will repeat, syn oil did not cause this leak from the info available, get a washer and run the syn oil w/o fear!

[motoman]

Hey, ya'll should show a little love here... It isn't the synthetic oil, the drain plug didn't have a washer! Geez.

Decades ago, when syn oils came out, yes they caused/contributed to leaks around gaskets because additive packages were not the same as Dino oil. That was sorted decades ago as well. Current additive packages are the same and for a fact M1 15w-50 (and most all M1 synthetics, along with Castrol Calvoline, Pennzoil) are just high grade DINO oil base stocks, meaning they are the same as Super Tech, just a purer form which resists degradation in extremes of temp and use. Go look it up, true story!

I love synthetic oil in my bikes, I run the M1 15w-50. Have done used oil analysis and the stuff holds grade really well and flashpoint stays high too. Both are good for a hot running air cooled engine, and the oil flows well at low temps after sitting for weeks or more for peace of mind when I start it up in the winter on a freezing but sunny day to go for a ride after waiting for snow to melt.

I will repeat, syn oil did not cause this leak from the info available, get a washer and run the syn oil w/o fear!

Ain't skeered!.......where's the popcorn?

[IanDMacDonald]

just purchased, $10.60 a gallon 15-40w diesel oil, good with gears, Cat approved, no friction modifiers.
I know about annealing these washers but years ago got a tip to use anti-seize on these copper oil plug washers. Of course you get a little anti-seize on the threads, never had a leak, never annealed since.

I don't mind stirring the pot, lol. My bike did not like the 15w-40, even-after changing the springs out. 20w-50 year-long from now-on.

[3Phase]

There's a storm coming!

You have to pay attention to the labels for the new diesel oils, they've started cutting back on the ZDDP just like the automotive oils.

For example: Chevron's Delo 400 vs Delo 400 LE (Low Emission)

The industry is also supposed to be reformulating their reforumulated formulas and from what I've read it won't just be a simple letter step like CJ to CK or SN to SO(P?).

It's an exciting time to have an oil thread!

.

[Schming]

Does anyone remember Kendall the "Green Oil", back in the Seventies that's what you used in your muscle car.

Brad Penn is Kendall.

I've a friend who drag races air cooled VWs and his weekly tear downs show no to micro wear on the mains, rods or crank.

Since He's a dealer I've been using Brad Penn, in various blends, in all my vehicles with improved performance via increased fuel milage, for the last 8 years. I also use the gear lube.

http://www.penngrade1.com/Default.aspx

They stock a 20w50 in the high performance motorcycle oil also.

[IanDMacDonald]

Interesting. I always enjoy reading about different oils. My buddy has a hookup on Amsoil that I'm thinking about. Can't recall if I have Valvoline or Wally world oil in it right now.