Installing carbs with air box

[TheRev]

Can someone please tell me how to install the carbs with the air box? There must be something I am missing. Is there a trick to doing this.

[jwhughes3]

Jared,

Check out this old tutorial thread.

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35349

Good luck,

John

[jwhughes3]

On Great Ranger, I too the top airbox bracket and cut it so it only attached to the top of the airbox and used the side bolts to old airbox in place. I'll have to look for a pic.

John

[crazy steve]

That's pretty much it in a nutshell.... One thing not stressed enough is when connecting the airbox is when you get two carbs started on one side, install the lower airbox mounting bolt loosely on that side before going to the other side. That will prevent the first two from pulling out as you push the other two in. Makes all the difference.....

[IanDMacDonald]

Also Rev- After the Winter turns those boots cold and hard, I like to heat the boots up with a blow dryer (not heat gun), or dunk them in a hot bath of Simple Green to soften the boots up. After that, I spray a little silicone grease on the bell housings prior to install. I wanted to set my bike on fire in April, trying to install my airbox.

On a sidenote, I replaced my carb manifold boots last month. It was time.

[BowlingSS]

It also helps to spray some wd40 on the card boots. It help the carbs go in.

Bill

[jetmechmarty]

It also helps to spray some wd40 on the card boots. It help the carbs go in.

Bill

It might be a good place for that dielectric grease. Armorall or something like that will work well, too.

Here's the video of the install in case it wasn't in the link above.
XS1100 Carburetor Install

[webbcraft2150]

Can someone please tell me how to install the carbs with the air box? There must be something I am missing. Is there a trick to doing this.

Doing it about a dozen times is the trick. Joking aside, it can be a pain. Loosen all the airbox bolts/nuts. Pull the bottom of the airbox off. I put the airbox to carb boots on after I have the carbs in place. Soapy water, silicone does help a lot getting the boots back on. If I remember correctly, the outside boots are different from the inside ones. Be careful when reinstalling the boots. You will have the tendency/need to use a screwdriver to help get them on and you could puncture the boot. I use a customized wooden dowel to pry on em. The airbox on the 11 is most likely the biggest reason people go to pods

[MPittma100]

Trick

Can someone please tell me how to install the carbs with the air box? There must be something I am missing. Is there a trick to doing this.

There is no trick. Just have to have a lot of patience. Everyone has a slightly different way to installing the carbs and OEM filter assembly.

If you did not check the carbs for leaks prior to the installation, I would strongly advise doing so. Do this using a remote fuel tank or some extended fuel lines off of the bike's tank. Better to find/correct a leak now rather than after they are on the bike. Also a good time to rebuild the petcocks as well.

You should have all three air box screws out so that the box is "floating". While pushing the air box back as far as it will go, angle the carbs in between the intake and air box rubbers. Be careful of the accelerator cable hook up linkage on the carbs so as not to bend it. Hook this linkage up as soon as you can. Proceed to tilt the carbs into the air box rubbers first. Don't force them in. Be patient. Then slide them forward into the carb intakes. Be careful not to bend any of the clamps. Push them out of the way if needed. From here it will take a little finessing to get all 8 of the rubbers aligned to the best position. They shrink over time, so a perfect alignment may not be possible. When you are satisfied of the best position, tighten all 8 clamps. May be necessary to tighten the two outside air box clamps and then pull carbs/air box forward.

The remainder is easy, but take your time. A good sync is in order upon completion. If/when the bike is going to sit for an extended period, place a 2X4under the front wheel. This will keep any leaking fuel out of the crankcase. Check the oil for fuel contamination prior to the sync.

[jetmechmarty]

I call this a booger hook, but I believe it is a Mac radiator hose tool. The tip is blunt. It can be very helpful for lots of things like installing the carburetors, or a radiator hose on your car.

[alaskey2]

On Great Ranger, I too the top airbox bracket and cut it so it only attached to the top of the airbox and used the side bolts to old airbox in place. I'll have to look for a pic.

John

Just for motivation, I'd like to see this picture. Going to be pulling my carbs for a clean and anything to make carb install a 1 man job would be great!

[IanDMacDonald]

You could also completely remove that top bracket, and tape the holes with some good duct tape.

[jetmechmarty]

Once you've done a couple of times, it's easy. There should be no need for modifications. It's a heck of a lot easier than on my XS650!

[motoman]

Can someone please tell me how to install the carbs with the air box? There must be something I am missing. Is there a trick to doing this.

Has to be done SEPERATELY Rev., and takes 10-15min., tops. For removal, remove lower portion of airbox first(after removing PCV hose). THEN remove upper portion of airbox and drop it DOWN on engine case out of way. Remove carb bank and at same time when coming out side of choice, unhook throttle cable.
Going back on with carb bank, first, have clamps loose enough to flip over lip back oughta' way, then spray silicone on inner portion of boots and as you START in with carb bank, hook up throttle cable(makes that chore easier to do). Catch carb bank on bottom of boots then a bit of rocking them to get under upper portion of boots.
The airbox boots can make things a bit more fiddley since they are somewhat loose. At times, they DO need to be rotated a bit for correct alignment!. Clamps back oughta' way, same starting at bottom of boots catching carb bell lip. Takes a bit more rocking and forward pressure, CAREFUL not to rock bike off centerstand. I let calf of my leg hold back against rider peg so this doesn't happen.
Also I DO not reccomend removing that top bracket from airbox! Bend it FORWARD and down of way a bit, or as J.W. Hughes stated, cut that upper loop off, LEAVING the metal mount pieces in place. Removing it WILL open a can of worms internally you don't want to deal with. The airbox has plenty of support from side bolts not putting undue strain on boots without need of upper mount bolt. I 'get it', but that WAS just another bit of overkill that could have been better well spent on the cam-chain adjuster design.
There you have it, the 10min. R/R of the airbox. A JIS(JapaneseIndustrialStandard) phillips driver also reduces time and frustration.

[jwhughes3]

Just for motivation, I'd like to see this picture. Going to be pulling my carbs for a clean and anything to make carb install a 1 man job would be great!

https://picasaweb.google.com/m/viewe...56415915884130

Try link. I cannot get pics to post on my phone.

John