Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Final drive hard to spin (but getting better)

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Final drive hard to spin (but getting better)

    I recently purchased a 1980 XS1100G, I am working through the quirks, here is one of them:

    The rear tire is hard to spin while the bike is in neutral and on the center stand, a good healthy tug gets 1/2 a revolution of the tire. My buddy has a 1982 XV750 Virago when I spin his tire with the same amount of effort I get two full revolutions.

    I took the wheel off and checked the wheel bearings, they spin fine. I tried to turn the final drive and it was very stiff. I removed the final drive (what a boat anchor that is!) and started to play with it. It is harder to turn from the wheel side as opposed to the input side (the side that connects to the drive shaft), but both sides seemed stiff.

    I put it all back together and drained the fluid (I previously checked the fluid level and it was fine). The fluid was a dark pinkish brown colour - looked like synthetic, but it had that strong gear oil smell. There was a layer of foam on top of the oil in the drain pan that I assumed would dissipate but it didn't, even after a day the frothy foam was still there. On the magnetic drain plug there was a dark black thick greasy substance. It looked like and had the consistency of shoe polish (the middle drive had the same thing going on).

    I filled it up with some 75w90 GL4 synthetic and went for a 120km ride. When I came back, I let the bike cool down for a couple of hours and put it on the center stand to see if the new oil made a difference; it did. I can now spin it a full revolution with the same amount of effort.

    Could the old oil be the culprit? Has anybody ever heard of something like this? Should I change the oil again soon? Maybe the ring and pinion is coated with that black gunk? Thanks
    1980 G
    Jardine Spaghetti

    http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/Ug...ish/slideshow/

  • #2
    Change it again........and if you decide to go with synthetic, 75-140w IS what would replace the conv. 75 or 80-90w.
    BTW, that rear wheel on the XS11 will NEVER make two rev. just spinnin' by hand....maybe without the brake caliper attached.
    81H Venturer1100 "The Bentley" (on steroids) 97 Yamaha YZ250(age reducer) 92 Honda ST1100 "Twisty"(touring rocket) Age is relative to the number of seconds counted 'airing' out an 85ft. table-top.

    Comment


    • #3
      I should mention that I did pull the caliper, it didn't make much of a difference. Also, if the 75w90 is less viscous than what should be in there, maybe that is why I can get a full revolution (spin)? If I put 75/140 it will be harder to spin?
      1980 G
      Jardine Spaghetti

      http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/Ug...ish/slideshow/

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by 1887 View Post
        I should mention that I did pull the caliper, it didn't make much of a difference. Also, if the 75w90 is less viscous than what should be in there, maybe that is why I can get a full revolution (spin)? If I put 75/140 it will be harder to spin?
        The oil pretty much has natha to do with what your findings. 75-140w syn. IS correct replacement for conv. EP gear lube. The extra change of gear lube will eliminate what YOU described as being yucky stuff in there. Pick your poision, 75 or 80-90w conven. OR 75-140w syn, RoyalPurple etc..
        Your wheel rotation resistance is normal, least from what you've described.
        81H Venturer1100 "The Bentley" (on steroids) 97 Yamaha YZ250(age reducer) 92 Honda ST1100 "Twisty"(touring rocket) Age is relative to the number of seconds counted 'airing' out an 85ft. table-top.

        Comment


        • #5
          As has been stated, the final drive is a bit stiff to spin anyways, and with it attached to the engine/swingarm and driveshaft, there's even MORE drag involved with the driveshaft/final drive unit even when in neutral. The ratio is ~2.71 to 1 at the driveshaft end, so yes, it's easier to spin it at the drive shaft part than the wheel HUB. At the hub connection, aside from the splined drive unit...there's also a large rubber O-ring that also rubs against the wheel's hub assembly....so yet another friction point...so cleaning/lubing/greasing it can also help to reduce some friction. But as pointed out, brake caliper will also add some drag. As long as wheel bearings are in good condition...the larger/wider inner one is hard to find...discontinued by Yamaha, a Member John England has provided them from the UK from time to time, otherwise not available from standard bearing houses....just put it back together and enjoy.

          T.C.
          T. C. Gresham
          81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
          79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
          History shows again and again,
          How nature points out the folly of men!

          Comment


          • #6
            ok - thanks for the great advice, I appreciate it. I will change out the oil with some snth 75/140.
            1980 G
            Jardine Spaghetti

            http://s1337.photobucket.com/user/Ug...ish/slideshow/

            Comment

            Working...
            X