Now Hands-On Help Needed Carb cleaning in Tampa Fla.

[Jeffintampa]

hmmm

and mixture adjustment at the least

how do you do a mixture adjustment

[bikerphil]

One method is to hook up your vacuum gauges (dial type not sticks) and use your trained eye to watch for the highest vacuum on the scale while adjusting the screw either in or out. This will be a very small change and you really have to watch for it. Start with your mixture screws about 2 turns out from very lightly seated. At the same time, keep checking/adjusting the sync as needed. Sounds difficult but really very easy after doing it 5 or so times.
There may be some other easier ways that people use, maybe they will chime in with those.

[Bonz]

I am gonna go "simple" on this one...

Set the screws at 2.25 turns. I say this because that is what works on my bike. Get the bike runnng the first time and notice once the bike fires up, does it need the enrichener to keep an idle right after start up, or will it run without enrichener right away? This is a great indicator if the screws are too far out (this means it is adjusted on the rich side, needs little/no enrichener).

The bike should need the enrichener for the first minute or two (full on initially, then half way, then off) as you want the bike to be adjusted properly to run once warmed up.

Once warmed up and riding, if you smell a strong gas odor when at a stop, the screws are probably too far out, and rich at idle.

After a few rides and getting a feel for the above things, then report back what you are experiencing. I think it's important to get you on the road and a feel for the bike.

-If you experience the above signs, then you could turn each screw in 1/4 turn and see where you are.

-If the bike needs enrichener for the first minute or two, then runs great and idles at a stop with normal exhaust odor and no gas smell, you are pretty much right on the money.

The vacuum method shared by bikerphil is a precise method, but you don't need that to get what you are after at this point, nor maybe do you feel good about juggling idle mixture settings and syncing the bike whilst performing the said adjustments.

My good friend and expert bike tuner, drag racer and bike performance parts maker Dale Walker (Holeshot Performance, www.holeshot.com) really agrees with that as well. Setting the mixture screws the same and adjusting them the same amount when an adjustment is called for, within what we are talking about, is the simplest and easiest way to get a good running bike to enjoy riding.

I use that method on my bikes and from what I have been told by most folks at rally's and when riding with friends "wish their bikes would be as smooth" or "run that well".

Other ideas?

[Jeffintampa]

yea

Well got the carbs today and yea fires up seems to run good will give you a road report in a few days. Gonna sync em tonight the away I go Thank you all for the help

[Jeffintampa]

ride today

Well went for a ride today, Had to play with my front brake, had locked up. It freed up (rebuilt them last year) after multiple squeezes and stops.

Well the bike runs Ok, not what I was hoping for. Kind of a light stumbling little hesitation before acceleration, Only put like 3 miles on it, fresh gas but not the best quality of gas, may put a tank of Prem in?

Thoughts
Think it will clear up...

[bikerphil]

Did you sync the carbs and set the mixture screws?

[Bonz]

Yes, what he said above. Did you sync and set mixture screws? Also, you do not run premium with these bikes. You will carbon up exhaust valves in the long run.These bikes need regular unleaded only. Saves some money also...

More info!

[Jeffintampa]

nope not yet

No I haven't sync them yet or messed with any thing the Schmit did, friend has my syncer so I will have to get it back starts and idles fine.

[Bonz]

How many turns out from LIGHTLY seated are the pilot circuit (idle mixture) fuel screws? Did you get that info with the carbs or check them yourself for a baseline?

Didn't see that info in any posts about the carbs now that they are re-built.

Maybe I missed something, if so my apologies.

Did you need enrichener to start it?

Also if you only put 3 miles on it then it didn't get warmed up!

Info is king for us to help and you to keep learning and be happy with a good running bike!

[Schming]

How many turns out from LIGHTLY seated are the pilot circuit (idle mixture) fuel screws? Did you get that info with the carbs or check them yourself for a baseline?

Didn't see that info in any posts about the carbs now that they are re-built.

Maybe I missed something, if so my apologies.

Did you need enrichener to start it?

Also if you only put 3 miles on it then it didn't get warmed up!

Info is king for us to help and you to keep learning and be happy with a good running bike!

Hi Bonz, Jeffs carbs idle mixture screws are set at 2 turns out from lightly seated and floats are set at 24.5mm. I benched synched them, "Trbig style", splitting the first hole with the butterfly.
Stock 110 needle jets, 5GL16 jet needles, 42.5 pilot fuels, 185 pilot airs, new fuel supply seats and needles, all genuine Mikuni parts.

And yes I supplied Jeff with all the info.

Carbs will need synched and the mixture screws tweaked to run like we know they can.

[Bonz]

Schming,

Agreed. That's the way I would have bench sync'd and set them up, might have gone 2.5 turns out on the pilot screws for him at sea level. The light stumble at acceleration says to me a tad lean at light throttle openings. A bit more pilot screw opening could clean that right up. Any thoughts?

[bikerphil]

I agree, with 42.5 pilots, the early type carbs like to have the screws out more than 2 turns, probably more like 2.5 or 3 as a starting point.

[Bonz]

He has the 80+ carbs (by the 110 size mains), as does my 80SG. I would still go a bit more open on the screws. The SG is set at 2.25 turns out and I live where air is thin, thus my recommendation to open past the 2.0 turns they are set currently, given his description of the stumble. 2.5 turns would be my starting point.

Jeff, let us know when you can if it needs enrichener to start, does it smell of strong gas from the exhaust once warmed up and waiting at a stop sign or traffic light, those kinds of context clues.

[Schming]

I advised Jeff to go another half turn out on the idle adj. screws and he reports that it is a little better.

Maybe he'll check in with an update.

[Bonz]

Nice Schming, you are so far above "above and beyond the call of duty" on this one, super good job!

Hope he shares and describes what "a little better" is. Is the issue still at the same rpm or at the same span of the rpm range? Has it narrowed in rpm range or become less noticeble under easy acceleration but no better under hard acceleration, etc?

Once he reports back with some detail, "Getting better" is a sign maybe another 1/4 or half turn out in the fuel screws is an easy "try and see".

Still curious if it needs a lot of choke (enrichener) to start, if there is a strong gas smell at a stop when idling, etc.