is my timing off 180 degrees?

[Mo_man19]

wuss up guys, again -_- , so finally connected everything back, put gas in and tried firing it up. but ofcourse it didnt start. now, heres whats going on, when i try starting it , stater solenoid is working , starter is turning, engine is turning, i already checked the spark plugs by jumping them off the head and all 4 of them are sparking. i primed the carbs to get some gas in there, now while i was turning it over, air was coming OUT from the air pod filters?!?!? im no genius but pretty sure that air was supposed to go in and not out. now one of my friends said it sounds like my timing is 180 defrees off. but when i was putting the engine back i SWEAR my camshaft dots were lined up next to the camshaft bearing arrows while the engine was at TDC. sooo can anyone please chip in on what might be the problem? thanks

forgot to mention that the last time i tried turning it over the carb body POPPED out of the intake boots, also i put the 3ohm dynacoils , and removed the resisitor , now since they have no polarity it doesnt mattrr which spark plug wire is connected to which primary wire on the coil right? on the left coil i have the number 1 and 4 wires conneected

[Mo_man19]

Update

update: so i was scouting the web for possible reasons as to why the air might be blowing out from the carbs and a lot of forums were saying that it maybe a valve that might not be fully closing or a bent valve so i went ahead and took off the exhaust and the carbs and looked at each valve while rotating the engine manually and there doesnt seem to be anything wrong with any valve , theyre not bent and they seem to be fully closing. so is the only suspect left is the timing?

[IanDMacDonald]

Not too familiar with the '80, but is your mechanical advance on backwards, or misaligned?

I might be thinking of my 750 though, as you can install the reluctor 180 . . .

You can confirm a bent valve via compression tests.

[IanDMacDonald]

however, blowback in the carb is def indicative to an open/bent intake valve(s).

[Mo_man19]

maaan did not want to hear that. esp right after i put everything back together. im hoping its an open valve rather than bent but about to go to the store right now to pick a compressor kit

[IanDMacDonald]

Well, if you have feeler gauges, check your clearances. Wider than normal clearances would show a bent valve.

[Mo_man19]

so i just got the compression testor and either im stupid, the tester is broken, or theres no compression as the nlgauge barely moves but also this kit doesnt seem really good as the tip thats suppose to insert into the spark plug hole barely slides in and i mean BARELY,so im going to borrow one of my friends kit tomorrow and see if its the kit or my compression is REALLY BAD but on a side note i tried both the 1st and 4th cylinder with the kit and the needle barley moves, probably the worst 80 dollars ive ever spent. at this point after spending 8 months rebuilding and thinking i went exactly as the manual told me to i just wanna kind of throw it away

[jetmechmarty]

This is all you need. About $25

[Mo_man19]

yea i figured i should have gotten something with threading, this one just had a rubber cap that doesnt even fit, what a peice of s***, thx for the link

[natemoen]

Yeah, those rubber tip ones don't really work well. Go return it and get one with threads.

[trbig]

Does your timing on your timing plate and the dots on the cams all line up? If they are off a bit, you might not have bent a valve, but just have the piston coming up and the valves closing at the wrong time. But as the others have stated, if you use the feeler gauges and find any with huge clearances... Bad news. Check your timing first though as compared to the cams.

[Mo_man19]

so when i was putting the engine back together i remember my timing (camshaft fots ,cam bearing arrows and the "T" were off by about 3-4 degrees and i called one of my friends and he said they have to be dead on aligned which they werent at that time i closed it back up, so time to open it up again

[IanDMacDonald]

Been there! No worries, as bending a valve or eight is really not the worst thing you can do to these engines. Pull the head, pull the bent valve, lap-in replacement valve, re-install head (re-using head gasket at your discretion), and follow manual to the "T" with regard to cam install.

Only thing different I'd advise is-if you're installing an ACCT, install it and the chain bridge prior to turning the crank to install the second set of cam sprocket bolts. In ny opinion, it allows you to keep tension on the chain without having to push something through the CCT hole.

[Mo_man19]

so i decided im going to take apart the head again and get a complete valve job done, i should have done it right the first time, now on a sidenote 3 of my friends keep saying that my timing is off specificaly " your intake valves are not closing at the correct time and thus the reason air is pushing out of the carbs" , that to me seems right to but so does a bent valve or a valve not closing fully, so my other question is when i push the start button and the pistons are going up and down, does that mean everything up to that point ( all the gears engaging correctly, and everything in the lower end is working correctly ) is good? and another question i stated earlier that i did the dyna coil upgrade, could it be that my plugs are not firing in the correcr order? i have the 1st and 4th plug ls connected on the left hand coil and 2nd and 3rd on the right now does that even matter since these things have no polarity? sorry for all these questions still a beginner at all this

[Mo_man19]

@trbig the dots on camshaft and the arrows were ofd by a couple degrees, now one of my friends said that that shouldnt matter much it should at least get the bike started but one of my other friends said no it has to be dead on, so whos right? the problem is im not sure if its the timing, i dont know if the correct spark plug is firing at the correct time thus my question in the previous post about the correct wiring setup