Lacking power on cylinders 2&3

[mwsxj1100j]

I havebeen working hard to get my carbs straight on my 1982 xj 1100 the bike runs but cylinder 2 and 3 are still running rough kinda like they are not getting enough fuel. I eliminated the fuel octopus and went with standard fuel lines will this make a difference on how the bike runs?

[mack]

Sorry

but I doubt it. Usually when an issue affects 2&3 it is more than likely a pick up coil or ignition coil problem. If you can swap the plug wires from 1&4 to 2&3 and see if that transfers the problem. If so it's the ignition coils. Try removing the plug caps and cut the wire back and test the resistence until you get spec. also check the resistence in the caps, they may need changing.Plugs????
Never a bad idea to periodically check your pick-up coil wires for breaks. Take off the left lower timing cover and run the wires (pulling the wires between your fingers). If there is a break there, the insulation will stretch like taffy.Although this problem normally doesn't manefest itself at idle. It usually is only evident under load as the advance kicks in.

[sail4free]

but I doubt it. Usually when an issue affects 2&3 it is more than likely a pick up coil or ignition coil problem. If you can swap the plug wires from 1&4 to 2&3 and see if that transfers the problem. If so it's the ignition coils. Try removing the plug caps and cut the wire back and test the resistence until you get spec. also check the resistence in the caps, they may need changing.Plugs????
Never a bad idea to periodically check your pick-up coil wires for breaks. Take off the left lower timing cover and run the wires (pulling the wires between your fingers). If there is a break there, the insulation will stretch like taffy.Although this problem normally doesn't manefest itself at idle. It usually is only evident under load as the advance kicks in.

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My pick-up coil wires ('79 XS Special) toasted in this fashion early on. I remember butt splicing the wires and stuffing all that crap back in there -- surprised it worked at the time -- *really* surprised that the ol' girl runs again (recent development). Can we just replace the whole affair? Or what is the usual fix?
JIM P.
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[DiverRay]

I think the pick up coils MAY be available, but I'm not sure. Last time I looked, they were about $100 per coil! the big thing is keep the wires LOOSE in the "crimp holders" Yamaha uses. I tried to tell Yamaha about the crimp problem in 1979, when I ran into problems with my first XS1100. I don't think they ever did anything about it. I do know that allowing the wires to slide back and forth just a little keeps them from breaking.
I don't know if the XJ has the same issue, as I thought it was all electronic and didn't have the mechanical advance.
But, 2&3 IS electrical, and NOT fuel, so leave the carbs for now. My guess is a poor coil, or one of the spark plug caps has a bad resistor in it.

[mack]

Xj

Like Ray, I'm not really up to speed on the XJ but from what I gather they are quite similar to the LH with regard to the electronics, but my LH still has the vacum advance.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Guys,

The XJ has no moving parts in the timing cover aside from the rotor/reluctor. The PU coils and plate do NOT MOVE because both Mech/Centrifugal and Vac. adv. curves are programmed into the TCI and controlled electronically. SO....the PU coil wires don't get the FLEX WEAR that they do in the earlier models. SO...I would not suspect the PU coil wires as the first thing, but as has been suggested, the actual spark plug coils, wires, caps, as well as the connectors for the PU coils to the TCI.

T.C.

[jetmechmarty]

I found some 1/4 inch long high temp butt splices at my local hardware store. Mine has been solder repaired twice. I have the problem again. This time I'll do it with the small butt splices and heat shrink.

[brcree]

same problem on mine...

Check the carb. slide rubbers....mine had small tears in both of them.