Checking Total Output Current

[crazy steve]

I have access to many types of electrical connectors from simple spades, rings, and other terminals, ferrules, amphenol connectors, Brad Harrison, Harting, etc. I was thinking about just deleting the Molex connectors, and going with spades, and putting some Brady labels on them. I don't really know what to do. I wanted to try Weatherpak connectors. My alternator to R/R connector is melted, so it will have to be replaced.

Here ya go..... the Cadillac of connectors; not cheap, but almost bulletproof....

https://www.wirecare.com/deutsch-connectors.asp?type=industrial&series=dtp&contacts=4

Rated to 25 amps continuous, and fully sealed. The fully sealed part is what's important, as corrosion at that alternator connection seems to be the main killer...

[IanDMacDonald]

Too bad the largest connector is 4-pin. Oh well, weatherpak connectors are pretty decent.

[crazy steve]

You can get other pin combos, just not in that style/amp rating. The lighter DT 13 amp continuous rated connectors can be had with up to 12 pins, the really good HD series up to 47 pins with up to 100 amp pins. Just don't expect them to be cheap!

[jetmechmarty]

Here ya go..... the Cadillac of connectors; not cheap, but almost bulletproof....

https://www.wirecare.com/deutsch-connectors.asp?type=industrial&series=dtp&contacts=4

Rated to 25 amps continuous, and fully sealed. The fully sealed part is what's important, as corrosion at that alternator connection seems to be the main killer...

The pin crimp tool is $250 or outside of what the typical XSive is willing to spend.

[DiverRay]

The pin crimp tool is $250 or outside of what the typical XSive is willing to spend.

Yes, but you CAN rent it for $25..... Line up a couple of people and get it done in a weekend for an extra $8 each. Just a thought..

[jetmechmarty]

Yes, but you CAN rent it for $25..... Line up a couple of people and get it done in a weekend for an extra $8 each. Just a thought..

That would be the best option. I agree, those are good quality connectors.

[crazy steve]

You don't have to spend that much for the crimper....

http://www.ebay.com/sch/m.html?_odkw=&_ssn=brussellex&hash=item3a85bc1070&item=251351797872&_osacat=0&vxp=mtr&_from=R40&_trksid=p2046732.m570.l1312.R1.TR0.TRC0.A0.H0.TRS2&_nkw=deutsch+crimper&_sacat=0

[clcorbin]

I've measured it on my '80G (ammeter in series with precision resistors wired in parallel with the load, not a clamp-on meter) and it's hundreds to thousands of milliamps. The bike can and will consume a full ampere or more from the alternator before the Regulator/Rectifier gets to supply current to the rest of the bike. Mine doesn't do that trick any more because I yanked out the Headlight relay.

Maybe it is still too early this morning, but how in the world does using an amp meter in PARALLEL to the load tell you anything about the load? The current through your resistors would be driven by the voltage between the nodes that you would then measure with your current meter which is in series with those resistors. But it would be independent of the current flowing through the load in a parallel circuit. The voltages across the nodes are the same, not the current.

Now a VOLT meter wired in PARALLEL to resistors in SERIES with the load would work. Heck, that is all an amp meter is anyway.

[3Phase]

Maybe it is still too early this morning,

Yes, it's early.

but how in the world does using an amp meter in PARALLEL to the load tell you anything about the load? The current through your resistors would be driven by the voltage between the nodes that you would then measure with your current meter which is in series with those resistors. But it would be independent of the current flowing through the load in a parallel circuit. The voltages across the nodes are the same, not the current.

No. See Ohm's and Kirchhoff's Law's for A/C circuits.

Now a VOLT meter wired in PARALLEL to resistors in SERIES with the load would work. Heck, that is all an amp meter is anyway.

No, it worked for GM and Chevrolet for their D/C ammeter and they didn't use a voltmeter disguised as a (fused) ammeter so, "... do you want to have the full argument, or were you thinking of taking a course?"


One Radio Shack 5% 10 Ohm (20W?) ceramic resistor to limit the current through and provide a series reference resistance for an autoranging multimeter (Fluke clone) set to measure A/C amperes.

Put the meter/resistor combination in parallel with the first White wire from the Alternator/Harness to the Rectifier/Harness -- probe to Alternator; resistor to Rectifier or the other way around if you're feeling Peckish, it's an A/C circuit.

The measured current will be be microamps to milliamps unless the wire or connectors are totally baked OR there is another load on the wire making it a series/parallel A/C circuit.

Repeat for the next two White wires.

I don't actually have a running 1978/1979 XS1100 right now so I'll have to think about how to measure the Headlight Relay current but it's powered by the Yellow wire from a center-tap in the wye-wound stator.

.