inline fuel filter routing

[DeanR]

DeanR: Yes, I would go with it.
Jim P. :
Remember, you are talking about 1-2psi from the weight of the fuel, add heat to the air bubble in the gas line, and you can be talking 3-4psi. VAPOR LOCK....

Needles/seats and floats would appear to both be ok?

[ViperRon]

Not trying to argue the point but for some strange reason depending on what filters and what type petcocks you use Somebikes will have an issue with flow. When I routed the gas line with no filter it flowed fine no matter which way I routed the gas lines. When I installed filters I had a problem with the bike missing like when I throttled up on an expressway and when the bike set for a while and when hot I had to crank and crank some times and others one bank would start and the other 2 would hit and miss for a bit. Gas did not flow it perked this all happened even if I put the bike in prime position for a bit first.

When I changed the routing to going from petcock to filter between carb 3&4under and up to the T between carb 1&2 in a nice smooth even loop and the other petcock to a filter exactly like Marty showed earlier in this thread between carb 1&2 and under over to the T between carb 3&4 all my intermittent problems went away. I have seen people with these bikes with more than a foot loop twisted and knotted still their bike runs Mine will not.

To test my petcocks for leaks I took the gas tank off no hose on filled the tank full and shook it and left it sitting on a bench for a day looking for a leak. Put hose on both sides and turned on prime to check for good flow of gas into a jar. turned prime off let tank sit all night and checked for leaks drips etc and had none. Picked tank up shook it again vigorous and hooked up hose into jar put a vacuum hose on and slightly sucked to ensure good flow in normal condition and then again let it set to ensure it did not leak.

I had no drips a drip is not satisfactory it indicated desire to leak on you. The gas should evaporate from the nipple and then dry up.


Float seats

These bikes were designed with a simple float system and a hanging needle. While the bike is sitting idling it vibrates and if on the side stand the floats will try to slide all the way to the left side. If there is a burr or worn spot on the float pin or the float rubs on the gasket it can hang open when the bike is cut off. It will leak gas into the engine if the petcocks fail and there is little chance of you taking apart the carb and finding a problem you can fix. The other issue is that with the bike idling on the side stand the float can drag the needle over against the side of the seat and it may stick when reseating and if petcocks fail gas flows and you will take carbs apart till you turn blue and you will never fix it. The more you allow your bike to sit idling on the side stand the more parts will wear this way.

So do not leave bike idling on side stand! If you have left it idling for a minute before you cut it off get on it level it throttle it a few times and then cut it off. If bike is to be left for any length of time put it level on the center stand! When storing bike put it on center stand and put a 2X4 thin brick or what ever under front wheel and that will tilt bike back or park up hill and if petcocks and float seats leak it goes to air box which is the lesser evil.

If none of what I say sounds sensible keep working on them gremlins and soon you will see the light.

[motoman]

Needles/seats and floats would appear to both be ok?

From what you stated, yes. That pesky #3 may have an interferring gasket when bowl is 'squished' down, or a slightly unnoticed angled float......that's why it's named the 'evil carb'.......just what it does until beat into submission.

[DeanR]

Well, things are finally all buttoned up, starting well, running well in the garage and ready for a quick unregistered and uninsured jaunt down the street.

Thanks for all the help and guidance guys.