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Upon re-install of cam?????????

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  • Upon re-install of cam?????????

    This is the cam and dot location prier to tear down...


    Getting ready to install and here is dot location...




    cam lobe touching #2 valve bucket



    Some guidance is in order....
    1979 F worst one i could find
    to convert into a bobber/ streetfighter!
    _________________________________

    We can't all get along!

  • #2
    I'm thinking this maybe no big deal, that big 22 mm nut on the cam itself might be there for fine tuning the cam (aligning the dots)once the caps are torqued down...anyone care to second that?
    1979 F worst one i could find
    to convert into a bobber/ streetfighter!
    _________________________________

    We can't all get along!

    Comment


    • #3
      Yep, that's what it's for, but don't move it with the sprockets attached. Also, pay attention to the little tabs on the screw holes of the sprockets so that both are on top when the arrow and cam dot are aligned.
      "Time is the greatest teacher; unfortunately, it kills all of its students."

      Comment


      • #4
        When i rotate the cam and align the marks will it stay in place or will it rotate back?
        1979 F worst one i could find
        to convert into a bobber/ streetfighter!
        _________________________________

        We can't all get along!

        Comment


        • #5
          Whoa. That is definitely one tooth out. Don't move the crank. Take the chain off the sprockets, realign the cam dots with a wrench on the cam hex and put the chain back on. Make sure you keep tension on the chain at the intake side while you put the chain on the sprockets. That's the side it pulls from.
          Living to EXcess.
          1978 XS1100E Canadian, Cartridge emulators, NOS heavy duty fork springs,
          Showa rear shocks, ACCT, Jardine 4-2 spaghetti pipes.
          1979 XS1100F Canadian, stock exhaust. Top end rebuild in progress.

          Comment


          • #6
            Okay, just in-case anything above confused you, follow this:

            DON'T MOVE THE CRANK!

            Remove the cam chain tensioner and cam bridge. Remove the chain from the sprockets, or at-least one sprocket. Rotate that 22mm hex on the cam and align it with the dot. Make sure the cam sprocket notch is in-line with the dot.

            Next, pull the chain off the other cam and align.

            Now, pull the slack out of the chain TIGHT from the crank sprocket, and pull over the intake cam. Now pull over the exhaust cam. Insert CCT and cam bridge. Rotate crank by hand a gazillion times to make sure dots align.
            1979 XS1100F
            2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.

            Comment


            • #7
              Orange4 take a closer look the cam caps are't even installed or sprockets... the cam is just sitting there
              1979 F worst one i could find
              to convert into a bobber/ streetfighter!
              _________________________________

              We can't all get along!

              Comment


              • #8
                So moving forward I can install cam caps and torque the bolts then rotate the cam to aligns the marks and they will stay aligned while I move onto the sprockets and chain?
                1979 F worst one i could find
                to convert into a bobber/ streetfighter!
                _________________________________

                We can't all get along!

                Comment


                • #9
                  YES, or very close to it. What little bit it MAY move is easily put back when you install the chain.
                  Ray Matteis
                  KE6NHG
                  XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
                  XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    And make sure that you torque with the correct spec!
                    79 XS11

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      7.2 cam 14.5 sprockets
                      1979 F worst one i could find
                      to convert into a bobber/ streetfighter!
                      _________________________________

                      We can't all get along!

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Thanks guys
                        1979 F worst one i could find
                        to convert into a bobber/ streetfighter!
                        _________________________________

                        We can't all get along!

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Just an FYI, unless your torque wrench is sensitive enough at that low of a torque spec, I'd take Steve's recommendation and use an inch pound torque wrench. It's amazing how little past hand-tight those cam caps need to be.
                          1979 XS1100F
                          2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            I hope I'm not too late with this news.........



                            I'm shocked that no one noticed what's wrong with this photo.
                            To fit the cams, you have to have the crank pointer at the "T" mark! Not the "C" mark.
                            The T is the mark for top dead centre.
                            The C is the mark for adjustment of the cam chain tensioner.

                            Lift the cams back out, rotate the motor to the T mark then fit the cams and align the dots and hope that you haven't bent any valves yet.

                            If you've got a Clymer manual, open to page 66 and read the installation procedure carefully
                            79 SF Special W/ Stock all original motor @ 384,000klms
                            Stock exhaust, stock airbox, XJ sump, 78E carbs, Xs1100RH seat, Bosch superhorns, 5/8ths front M/c, braided lines, sintered SBS pads, drilled discs, progressive springs, 8" 50w HID headlight 4300K, 2 x 50w HID spiral driving lights, KONI shocks, Spade fuse box
                            *Touring mode - Plexistar 2 screen, Gearsack rack & bag & saddlebags, homebuilt towbar
                            *"The Keg"- UC torana hubs, XS11 discs, Tokico 4 spot calipers

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Huh, lol? His pointer is on the "T" mark . . .
                              1979 XS1100F
                              2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.

                              Comment

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