it'll kill T.C. that he meant to say "takeoffs", and said castoffs, lol.
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Hey again,
Okay, before you tear the starter apart, go ahead and remove the cover, and check the grounding strap to the frame down there, as well as the bolts that secure the starter, and the condition of the starter housing where it contacts with the engine case. Corrosion can cause a loss of grounding which can also cause poor motor performance since the AMPS can't get thru!
Also, the starter doesn't ENGAGE the engine like a car starter....it's already attached and engaged via an idler gear, this idler gear then spins the actual starter clutch assembly that's down deep in the engine...around the main shaft, and uses some fancy pinch rollers that then grab the shaft and spin it, and once the motor is started, the pinch rollers retract and allow the shaft to spin freely...and so then the starter motor can stop spinning, but there is no moving solenoid type device.
Yeah, you'll want to check out the setting of the throwout rod in/on the clutch lever that's behind the 2 screwed clutch cover. The service manual should have the process for adjusting it properly. Folks have reported though that after the installation of BARNETT springs that they had a little creep when the clutch was pulled. The EBC springs will provide you with enough tension/pressure to prevent the slippage for a while...1-2 years, but they compress and loose their tension surprisingly quickly...that's why after only 2 years, I experienced slippage and then went to the extra steel plate. However, if you don't have the throwout rod set right...then the clutch isn't fully engaging....and this can cause slippage as well as glazed discs.
The 78 was stock with the kickstarter assembly, and so it should work with your kickstarter. If it's not, it could be a damaged gear, or it could be the starter clutch pinch rollers not being spun quick enough to allow it to grab the shaft?? I have an 81, so I don't really have any experience with a kick starter on our machines....hopefully others will chime in.
We often recommend folks get the castoffs of harley shops for bolt on mufflers..can usually be found relatively cheaply, and provide decent sound control and some backpressure.
T.C.Leave a comment:
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1. Get rid of the 15w40, and switch to the recommended 20w-50. You don't deviate from your car's recommended oil, don't do it on your bike. Yes, it'll work, but 20W-50 works best. The EBC springs are not a good buy. Take heed to advice on installing Barnetts.
2. I'd also check your ground connections. Pull them all, and clean them. Clean your kill switch, ignition switch, etc.
3. Follow the manual adjusting the clutch behind the clutch cover. Creeping while the clutch lever pulled in is not safe or normal.
4. How about buying an original airbox?
5. Baffle? Like muffler? If you mean muffler, the options are endless when you have a welder and reducers, pipe, etc. Some have used the EMGO's from Mike's, others have used the Dunstalls, other's have used Supertrapp Universals with Mac headers. You could also look for some Jardine's on ebay now & then.
6. No, the '78-79 actually included an emergency kickstarter in the battery compartment. Pull the right side oil cover and verifybthe gear is engaging, and the spring is intact.Leave a comment:
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O ya, one more thing that's been confusing me. I have a kickstart mounted, but it isn't actually turning the bike over. It feels like there is a decent amount of resistance, but whatever it's doing in there isn't actually turning the bike over. Is the 78 missing a gear or something? Most of the info I've found is for the 80/81 Specials.Leave a comment:
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Quick updates:
1) I use Rotella T 15w40 which others have claimed is fine. I'll install these EBC springs and report back after cleaning/scuffing steel and friction plates and soaking them in clean oil.
2) I just found out that I'm not draining my battery, I thought I was draining my battery because the other day I got back from an hour cruise my starter sounded really weak. Today the starter won't even turn the bike over, so I hooked it up to a fully charged truck battery and same result. Click...then nothing...every once in a while it will turn the bike over once or twice but not with near enough force to start the bike...so it is engaging. Sucker was working great a few days ago, already tried tightening all the connections and jumping the solenoid. Planning on pulling the starter out and cleaning the brushes and those other parts in there with big names
3) Another thing I took notice of today is that even with the clutch pulled all the way in, there is a lot of resistance when rolling the bike in 1st gear. It definitely isn't releasing the clutch 100%. I also notice it when I go from N to 1st while the bike is running, it wants to lurch forward a bit...but I think all my bikes do that to an extent. Guess I really need to get in there and see what's going on.
4) I was planning on putting some Velocity Stack socks on, but those damn things are like $20 a pop. For that much money I'll just put my own damn socks on them. I'll figure something out since it's obviously going to be an issue in the long run, especially this time of year when the air is full of all kinds of weird tree and plant sex particles.
5) Anyone have a lead on a decent baffle for the stock headers? I got one off ebay and it does next to nothing to quiet the bike down...although it probably does create a small amount of back pressure. I'm still too close to the city for it to be this loud so I'm going to have to do something.Leave a comment:
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slippage might be a product of using wrong kind of oil....but you didn't hear me say "another oil post "
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Hey TMT,
Everybody has already posted most of what you need. I looked at your build photos. Nice custom cafe` build. With regards to your velocity stacks, if you want to be able to put many 10's of K miles on it, it would be suggested to put some sort of INDY filters on the ends of those stacks...otherwise you'll be destroying your cylinder walls with road grime and grit, dust and such! The OEM airbox uses similar velocity stack design, so you don't loose anything(Except harmful dirt particles) with some filters stuck on the ends.
The extra steel plate mod was posted BEFORE I learned about the Barnett springs. We really do highly suggest the Barnett's as the best fix for clutch slippage. With only 12K miles, the frictions should barely have any wear...but I have to ask, did you micrometer them?? Stock range is 3.00 to 2.80 mm the latter being the wear limit. Also, did you take the clutch pack apart?? Cleaning the steels to remove varnish, as well as slightly scuffing them with a fine grit emory cloth or such, along with cleaning the frictions can help, but I don't have what you should use to clean the frictions with. But then you will need to soak them in oil before assembly. AND just to bring up the white elephant, hopefully you're using Dino with nothing in the lower half of the API seal....NO FRICTION MODIFIERS....or this can also contribute to slippage. Others have also stated not to use SYNTH, others have stated NO slippage issues with SYNTH, but can depend on what condition your clutch parts are in...and IF in marginal specs...weak springs, etc., then SYNTH can contribute to increased slippage. YMMV.
Harbor Freight sells a simple 7 function multimeter for like $10.00, I think I picked up one for FREE during a promotional coupon! Not only the ALT to harness connector behind the fusePANEL/PLATE, but also ALL of the grounds that join at the REG/RECT below the tank on the frame...clean the bolt, all frame contact points there, as well as the other engine to frame grounds behind the starter, not just at the battery. But, yes the charging system is barely adequate...and only at ~2500+ rpms...folks have drained their battery from just tuning at idle!
Yep you need to vacuum synch the carbs. You can do the Pilot screws idle adjustments by ear, but you really need to SYNCH them to get the most power out of the bike/engine. With the shortened wide open exhaust it may be a bit difficult, and then getting the tuning so that you have smooth throttle responses throughout the rpm range....others have had trouble with the transition points ~3500 rpm when going from mostly pilot jets to mains.
Shifting is a learned event with the XS11. They are NOT synchromesh, so learning the right rpm points, as well as slightly releasing/backing off of the throttle while you also actuate the clutch to take some of the tension off of the gears can really help in making the shifts smoother and easier, but you're right, you do need to be FIRM with the shift action anyways....there's another false neutral between 4th and 5th. Remember, these were/are high performance engines(of their era), and like to be run into the upper rpms before shifting...ie. 5-6-even 7+ rpms.
T.C.Leave a comment:
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The EBC springs aren't known for their quality or longevity....
You really want the Barnetts.....
Lo-buck carb sync tool.... http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=986Leave a comment:
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Thanks for all the good tips so far, as always, this site continues to come through. I ordered a set of EBC clutch springs, figured I'd start there.
I replaced/redid/removed a lot of the wiring, and I didn't see anything that stood out as being really bad surprisingly (except for a bad headlight relay). I did not however clean out the connectors coming from the motor itself or the one going into the rectifier, didn't even think of that so I'll do that before my next outing. I need to invest in a voltmeter and see what this charging situation looks like and then I'll probably go from there.
Really wish my dumb ass would have just checked the valves when the engine was out, stupid...
Vacuum gauges sound like a decent investment then...they don't look too pricey.Leave a comment:
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I'll second all of the above advice, except for the charging issues. The wiring/connectors Yamaha used on the charging system of these bikes was only adequate when new; add any corrosion from age/neglect and they quickly become inadequate. Make sure all charging system connectors are clean and are at near-zero resistance through them. Particularly the connections near/behind the fuse panel, as these are the ones that cause the most trouble. If any connector looks like it's gotten hot (semi-melted plastic, burned insulation on any wire), I'd really recommend replacing the connector/terminal. One of the best things you can do for a neglected XS is checking/cleaning ALL electrical connections to make sure they're good.
Checking connections... http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35339Last edited by crazy steve; 04-13-2015, 10:49 AM.Leave a comment:
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Clutch IS the springs! Barnett heavy duty springs usually fix 99% of the problems. (remember, the springs in the bike have been compresses for 35 years!)
oregonmotorcycles has a "new" reg/rectifier that will start charging at a lower RPM, and just works better than the old stock one. It WILL solve the electrical problem.
You SHOULD do a sync with vacuum gauges. I have a set of 4 that does a VERY GOOD job of getting the most out of the bike. It doesn't take much to go from good to WOW...
Continue to have fun! and enjoy the bike!!!
Valve on these TIGHTEN UP as they wear, so yes, DO check the valves.Leave a comment:
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Welcome to the site! It looks like what you started with was already modified and your bike looks good now! As far as your questions;
1. Yes check your valves. I check mine at the beginning of each season.
2. Do a plug chop to see if you are running rich, lean or just right.
3. A set of new springs may fix the problem. I thought I had a clutch problem on one of my bikes, but I realized it only happened in second gear. So I flipped the bike, pulled the gears, fixed and replaced. All I good now.
4. These bikes start charging between 2050 to 3000 rpms. I would check it to make sure.
5. I'm sure you have read on here that these bikes shift like a Russian tractor... so it is normal.Leave a comment:
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XS11 Build and Questions
First off, I want to say that over the past 12 months I've been rebuilding an XS11 that I bought cheap because it had been sitting for some 12 odd years or so in a carport and was in pretty rough shape...and I wouldn't have gotten very far without this site. I've used this site nearly every day I've worked on the bike, and for literally all the troubleshooting along the way. Here are some pictures of the build:
I already have a few other motorcycles that are decent cruisers/canyon carvers so for this build I really just wanted something different that would make a statement and still be fun for short trips up the mountain (so no haters, I realize this isn't everyone's style and that I ruined a perfectly good bike, blah blah blah...). This thing handles waaaaay better than expected, and it's fast...it's an absolute blast to ride and I'm even thinking about trying to get it out on a road course this year. The bike is bare bones, basically a headlight, a tail light and a starter....and 400lbs of engine. Lots of custom bits and did most of the work myself minus the seat pan and most of the paint work. Basically rebuilt EVERYTHING minus motor... rebuilt brakes, new stainless brake lines, rebuilt carbs, plastic floats, rebuilt petcocks, new Hagon rear shocks, TK Fork brace, new progressive front springs, Auto cam tensioner, plugs, all new fluids, etc. Motor has 12k miles and runs great, only a two owner bike. I've worked out most of the shake down issues like a small oil leak, battery position issue, running to rich, etc...but I do have a few issues still that I wanted to consult the group on:
1) I never checked the valves on the bike, as I heard it run when I bought it and the compression was solid. It runs fine and doesn't make any weird noises as far as I can tell, but should I check the valves anyway with 12k miles and no symptoms?
2) I tried syncing the carbs with a Synchrometer that I use on the Porsche, but I don't think it's sensitive enough to get the best readings so I've just eared it to where I feel like it's running the best. Seems fine, but how concerned should I be about getting this thing tuned perfectly. I did bench sync the butterflies. Wouldn't it show signs if something were off enough to cause any damage? We may put it on the Dyno this summer at RnR, so I'll get a video of that and post it if we do.
3) Clutch Slippage. This thing is a beast with the rejected carbs, custom velocity stacks, open exhaust and massive weight reduction. Its seriously fast, but the clutch slips pretty bad at full throttle. I'm thinking about replacing springs and adding another steel disk per advice on this site. Anyone had any experience with this? Already tried adjusting everything and it's not out of adjustment, but I can't imagine the clutches are bad with only 12k miles on it. This could be the reason the bike sat, or it could have been a bad float that was causing the bike to flood...hard to say.
4) I need a voltmeter to know for sure, but on trips where I'm keeping the RPM's low I seem to be draining the battery a bit. Considering I have such bare bones electronics I figured the electrical system would be more than enough. Should I have sufficient voltage at idle or is it common to only charge at higher RPMs. Any upgrades I can do to ensure this isn't an issue down the road?
5) Shifting isn't the smoothest ever, there is some clunking and changing gears requires a confident movement of the shifter lever. All the gears do seem fine, other than the not super smooth shifting. Is this pretty normal (my modern bikes are super smooth obviously).
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