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  • Repacking Wheel Bearings?

    I was just reading Diver Ray's thread about re-doing his '79 and saw this --

    Next was the new shoes, mounted and balanced by a local shop. I didn't do much with the rims, as they had all new bearings and grease just a few thousand miles before the "sleep". I DID check and repack bearings, but as I used the synthetic grease, they had NOT hardened up.
    What is the process/procedure/trick to removing wheel bearings to repack them without destroying them? Never done it before, seems like a good idea but don't want to damage a bearing...especially that left rear needle bearing! And how often should it be done?
    Billy

    1982 XJ1100, Ceramic Coated Headers, Raptor ACCT, Barnett Clutch Springs, Dremmel Fix, TC's Fuse Block, De-Linked S/S Brake Lines, 850 Final Drive, Yahman's YICS Eliminator, Pods, stock jets

  • #2
    Originally posted by BillyRok View Post
    I was just reading Diver Ray's thread about re-doing his '79 and saw this --



    What is the process/procedure/trick to removing wheel bearings to repack them without destroying them? Never done it before, seems like a good idea but don't want to damage a bearing...especially that left rear needle bearing! And how often should it be done?
    Go to your local NAPA, purchase the two piece funnel coned wheel bearing packer. Grease WILL push by the lip seals of bearing, after which use fingernail or similar and tuck the lip seal back under metal flange of bearing Re-install bearing.
    81H Venturer1100 "The Bentley" (on steroids) 97 Yamaha YZ250(age reducer) 92 Honda ST1100 "Twisty"(touring rocket) Age is relative to the number of seconds counted 'airing' out an 85ft. table-top.

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    • #3
      All the wheel bearings (minus the left rear) can be had for under $10 total if you shop around online. If you have never replaced them replace them and don't even bother trying to repack them.
      Nathan
      KD9ARL

      μολὼν λαβέ

      1978 XS1100E
      K&N Filter
      #45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
      OEM Exhaust
      ATK Fork Brace
      LED Dash lights
      Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters

      Green Monster Coils
      SS Brake Lines
      Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

      In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

      Theodore Roosevelt

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      • #4
        We have the wheel bearing packer, I just have never removed a wheel bearing before and am looking for guidance on how you do it. Would like to repack the left rear but don't want to ruin it trying to get it out. Any pointers?
        Billy

        1982 XJ1100, Ceramic Coated Headers, Raptor ACCT, Barnett Clutch Springs, Dremmel Fix, TC's Fuse Block, De-Linked S/S Brake Lines, 850 Final Drive, Yahman's YICS Eliminator, Pods, stock jets

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        • #5
          The Perils Of Starting A Grease Thread (iilustrated)

          Here you go, Billy, here's a thread from Ross. :-


          final drive questions?!


          .
          -- Scott
          _____

          2004 ST1300A: No name... yet
          1982 XJ1100J: "Baby" SS Brakes, '850 FD, ACCT
          1980 XS1100G: "Columbo" SS Brakes, '850 FD, ACCT
          1979 XS1100SF: "Bush" W.I.P.
          1979 XS1100F: parts
          2018 Heritage Softail Classic 117 FLHCS SE: "Nanuk" It's DEAD, it's not just resting. It is an EX cycle.

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          • #6
            The left rear is probably the easiest bearing to pack. There is an inner race in that one that just pulls right out exposing the rollers. There's a seal you have to remove to do that but it comes out really easy if you carefully pry on it. It'll push right back in with your thumbs.

            The sealed ball bearings I just use a grease injector needle. Looks like a large hypodermic needle with a grease zerk on one end. You can get one at pretty much any auto parts house. It'll go in around the rubber part of the seal. Doesn't really matter if you jack the seal a little, the grease stays in there.

            No need to remove any of them unless they are bad. No need to wash them with any solvent either, it's impossible to get it all out of the bearing and it will break down the grease and then you WILL have a bearing failure. Just pack in some fresh with what's in there. After all, if the grease was bad the bearing would be also.

            I have a pic of the LR wheel bearing disassembly.



            That little collar up on the right has to be removed to get the seal out. Careful, that lip is on the inside and has to be pulled out past the lip of the seal.
            Last edited by BA80; 04-07-2015, 06:23 PM.
            Greg

            Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.”

            ― Albert Einstein

            80 SG Ol' Okie;79 engine & carbs w/pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, Custom Mac 4 into 2 exhaust, ACCT,XS850 final drive,110/90/19 front tire,TKat fork brace, XS750 140 MPH speedometer, Vetter IV fairing, aftermarket hard bags and trunk, LG high back seat, XJ rear shocks.

            The list changes.

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            • #7
              So the only way to remove the right rear bearing is to hammer it out from the left side, setting something on the inner ledge and blasting the bearing, destroying it in the process?
              I pulled my rear wheel from my project and have no idea how the bearings are. I can see the right is low on grease and needs repacking at the least and nothing appears wrong with the left.
              80G

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              • #8
                There is a snap ring holding the right rear bearing in. Remove the snap ring and use a drift from the left side to tap the bearing out, it is only a light interference fit, you won't ruin it.
                2H7 (79) owned since '89
                3H3 owned since '06

                "If it ain't broke, modify it"

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                • #9
                  hmm the snap ring is out, but it was not budging.
                  80G

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                  • #10
                    Soak the outside with PB Blaster to help loosen it. Worse come worse if you ruin it, the 6304 bearing is about $5.
                    2H7 (79) owned since '89
                    3H3 owned since '06

                    "If it ain't broke, modify it"

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