Cam Chain Adjustment

[Jeffintampa]

Hi all.
I have read several of the search topics for this. I have never done it and feel like I need to start doing some service type things as I have put 10K miles on the bike for the last 4 years. My Clymer says its pretty much a no brainer.

it says after removing 1 plug, rotating clockwise till line up C, loosen the cam chain tensioner lock nut and loosen the stopper bolt. The tensioner will automatically adjust to the correct tension.

Tighten stopper to 4.3 and lockout 6.5

Is it really that simple? any tips

Thanks again

[skids]

That is basically correct. Loosening one spark plug is a bit weird, may as well loosen all 4. You can't rotate past the C and then go counter clock wise to come back to it. CCW to the C and then do the tensioner. Do NOT over-tighten the stopper bolt (or the nut). When done with that part, rotate the crank again (timing plate) by hand to make sure all is well. Tighten plugs and ride.

[IanDMacDonald]

Yes, it's as simple as the manual says. Tips? As soon as that plunger is loosened, DO NOT turn that crank even if your life depends on it. Another tip: if you want, remove the valve cover during this to make sure your timing is not disturbed.

[Jeffintampa]

Thanks guys I am gonna give it whirl

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Jeff,

You say you reviewed several search topics/threads. There are some other threads about the AUTOMATIC CAM CHAIN TENSIONER that you may want to review as well. And also about a home made MOD for the manual tensioner vs. using/installing an ACCT.

Even though I used the OEM style for some 65+K miles, the OEM CCT is a known weak link in the drivetrain and has caused several members to have or get bent valves due to failure/slippage. I converted to the Modded Manual CCT on mine a year ago.

The general consensus is to replace the OEM CCT with either an ACCT or the modded CCT, your choice, but don't rely on the OEM unit. It is one of the few parts that Yamaha "under"engineered and that's why the locking bolt easily strips out the Aluminum housing threads which then allows the plunger to get loose and cam chain to get loose, and the chain the skip teeth, get valve timing out letting valves hit pistons!

T.C.

[Jeffintampa]

I wish you lived next door topcat. I am no good when it comes to working on engines. I probably need to do that conversion good outlet for the part? Mikesxs have it? simple swap?

[Jeffintampa]

And also about a home made MOD for the manual tensioner vs. using/installing an ACCT.

Mine is not a manual tensioner is it?

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Jeff,

Our OEM CCT is still a manual tensioner, it is just a set and lock type. Here's the thread on the MOD for the manual unit.

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...nute+cam+chain

The tech tips provide info on the ACCT, where to get them...from ebay or Andreas Weiss, as well as how to install it. If you're not mechanically inclined or experienced, then it would probably be a good idea to request some local member's help for some laying on of hands in person for your bike. I would suggest you get the ACCT, get help installing it so that you can then essentially forget about it.

Post a message in the Member's lounge, or even just in this thread requesting local assistance, describe where you are located, I'm sure you'll find someone near willing to lend a hand.

T.C.

[Prisoner6]

... I probably need to do that conversion good outlet for the part? Mikesxs have it? simple swap?

Hey, Jeff -

Take a look at this thread ... it documents the ACCT conversion (with pics), and shows you all the ACCT's that will fit our bikes:

Automatic Cam Chain Tensioners

And as TC stated, you can get an appropriate ACCT from Andreas here on the site, or ... a lot of these ACCT's are readily available on Ebay.

[Jeffintampa]

figures

Well,
Went out this am cold bike, took out all the plugs, set the C perfect. Loosed the lock nut. The bolt, tightened the bolt, tightened the nut. Put the cover back on, and then fought the putting the plugs back in grrrrr they wanted to cross thread. Had a hell of a time getting them all set.

I wish I had the cash just to have the dealer do all the work.

Thank god for all of you to help me

[DiverRay]

Jeff, Next time take a short bit of vacuum tube and put it on the end of the plug. Clean the threads, apply a little bit of anti-seize too the threads, and holding the rubber tube start the spark plugs. The rubber tube gives them the "wiggle room" to self center, and you do not have the torque to cross thread them. You DO NEED the anti seize on the threads, as the steel to aluminum can give you problems as you remove and insert the plugs.

[Donmystic1]

Should the antiseize be the copper or aluminum type?

[MaximPhil]

Should the antiseize be the copper or aluminum type?

Waiting to hear the answer o Don's ?
Phil

[TopCatGr58]

Well,

Here's an interesting FAQ from NGK!

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/dyk_5points.pdf

Can't speak for other brands or their manufacture?

Here's an interesting article from Motor Magazine.
http://www.motor.com/article.asp?article_ID=2023

The general consensus from what I've read is that anti-seize lubricates the threads, and so torque values will be wrong, and that one should use ~20% less than normal values for the application.

Straight Copper anti-seize utilizes the soft metal as the component, but can fail under high head and load conditions. Proper Anti-seize compounds are a mixture of metal particles...high temp/pressure grease and such. Because of the need for electrical conductivity, you would want to choose one that states good conductivity.

So....sounds like it's like the dielectric grease controversy, depending on how often you plan on changing your plugs...and on a BIKE I would think it would be more often than on a car that could go 60+K miles before needing changing...that could be several years worth of exposure to heat/elements and the dissimilar metals contact. And so with more frequent changes, there's less time for the plug metal to fuse to the head.

However, if folks USED the anti-seize but didn't take into consideration the reduced torque needs, they could then OVERTIGHTEN and strip the threads defeating the purpose of the use of the anti-seize to begin with!! YMMV!

T.C.

[jetmechmarty]

I use high temp copper based anti seize on my plugs and no torque wrench. On new plugs, I screw them in until seated, then one half turn more. If reinstalling the plug and the washer is already squashed, I seat the plug plus one quarter turn. I don't know where I learned that, but for many years, it hasn't failed me.