Knocking in transmission (with video)

[oakback]

I just recently got the motor running. The first time I shifted it into gear, there was a knocking sound.

video (ignore my pathetic temporary intake setup)

When in neutral, the rear wheel spins freely (engine running or off). With engine off, and in gear, rocking the wheel back and forth doesn't provide any sounds, and there's no sort of slippage or notching action. The noise isn't coming from the u-joint, but I've been fooled by that before (on my truck a bad u-joint resonated through the transfer case), so I'm not discounting it. But I didn't see any play in that area (at least from what I could tell). Shifting feels fine, I was just too gentle with it in the video.

I don't know if there's enough lube in the transmission, this video was the 2nd time I've tried switching gears with the engine running. Could low oil cause that sound? I figured I'd get an answer to that question before filling it with new oil, in case it's not the problem and I'd have to drain it anyway.

Where do I start with this?

Edit to add in case it isn't clear, in the video I shift into 1st at :04, 2nd at :20, 1st at :30, neutral at :40.

[bikerphil]

Sounds like you may need the dremel fix. Take her for a ride if possible and you'll know for sure if it skips out of gear. 1st and 2nd are the gears most likely to need the repair. BTW, the engine oil lubes the transmission also, so check the level in the sight glass with the bike level on the centerstand.

[Bergman16]

Same thing happened to me when I ran mine on the center stand. Was told it was normal, some play in the drive train. It doesn't happen when riding/under load.

[oakback]

Thanks. I read about that, seems doable enough. I won't be able to go for a ride for awhile (still needs battery, tires, brakes, holes in tank fixed, at least), but I may just do that mod anyway.

I can't see a darn thing through that sight glass. But when it comes time to fill it back up (after flipping the bike over and all that) I'll shine a light down into the fill hole while looking at the sight glass, to know for sure.

Aside from the grinding bits, is there anything else I should buy to prepare for the dremel fix? Are the gaskets generally reusable?

Also, new question. I was reading the Charging System/Tachometer write up, and when I got to this part:

With an ohmmeter measure the resistance between each white wire. These wires control the stator. It should be 0.4 ohms +/- 10%.

I got 0.7 ohms. I'm working off of day-old memory here, so I'll double check. But if that's the case, what does that mean?

This part measured spot on:

The resistance between the brown and green wires should be 3.5 ohms +/- 10%. These are the wires that go to the field coil of the alternator. The brown wire carries current from the battery and the green wire goes to the voltage regulator.

[IanDMacDonald]

Thanks. I read about that, seems doable enough. I won't be able to go for a ride for awhile (still needs battery, tires, brakes, holes in tank fixed, at least), but I may just do that mod anyway.

I can't see a darn thing through that sight glass. But when it comes time to fill it back up (after flipping the bike over and all that) I'll shine a light down into the fill hole while looking at the sight glass, to know for sure.

Aside from the grinding bits, is there anything else I should buy to prepare for the dremel fix? Are the gaskets generally reusable?

Also, new question. I was reading the Charging System/Tachometer write up, and when I got to this part:


I got 0.7 ohms. I'm working off of day-old memory here, so I'll double check. But if that's the case, what does that mean?

This part measured spot on:

Resistance is obviously higher, and out of factory spec, but it still may be within a "working" spec. As soon as you get your bike going with a "new" battery, run a voltage test over the battery leads. Voltage increase as RPM's increase (14V+)? If not, get ahold of Andreas for a spare. Thing is so, those stators are 35 years old, and most have not been removed from the cover. So, ideally you want to buy it with the cover. I've removed a few over the years and seeseen the glue break. Make sure your R/R is not shot as-well. Usually when one goes, the other goes too. I'll be buying Geezer's R/R as-soon as I verify all of my Molex connectors are good after a deoxit cleaning. Which reminds me: Buy a can of Deoxit and clean-up every single one of your connections, headlight to tail light.

[oakback]

Same thing happened to me when I ran mine on the center stand. Was told it was normal, some play in the drive train. It doesn't happen when riding/under load.

That's good to know, thanks.

As soon as you get your bike going with a "new" battery, run a voltage test over the battery leads. ... Buy a can of Deoxit and clean-up every single one of your connections, headlight to tail light.

Will do on both accounts, thanks.

[MaximPhil]

Hi Ian,
Deoxit. Where do you buy it and how much does it cost?
I am travelling to US soon. Last trip NAPA did not have it.
Phil

[phatts27]

Not Ian here,

You can only buy deoxit at radioshack. It is rather expensive coming in at just north of $16 usd for a 5oz can. There are two kinds, you need the one labeled contact cleaner and rejuvenator, not the one for use with gold (that one is about $25).

-not Ian

[James England]

Personally, I would not do the Dremel thing if it's not necessary. If anything is wrong, I'd say it's the middle gearbox, drive shaft or, perhaps, the rear gearbox.

There definitely is slack in the transmission which shows up when the bike is running on the stand. You really need to ride yours, especially before getting Dremels and grinders out.

[Schming]

Here Ya Go Phil . . .

Hi Ian,
Deoxit. Where do you buy it and how much does it cost?
I am travelling to US soon. Last trip NAPA did not have it.
Phil

http://www.amazon.com/CAIG-DeOxit-Cl...eywords=deoxit

Happy De Oxidizing !!!

[MPittma100]

Trans Noise

Personally, I would not do the Dremel thing if it's not necessary. If anything is wrong, I'd say it's the middle gearbox, drive shaft or, perhaps, the rear gearbox.

There definitely is slack in the transmission which shows up when the bike is running on the stand. You really need to ride yours, especially before getting Dremels and grinders out.

+1 here. You need to ride the bike as suggested. All XS11s will have that "clunking" noise at idle, in gear, running on the stand - nature of the beast. Ride it first to see if there are shifting issues - or not.

[Tenorman]

On my Bike....

On my XS1100LG, after I got the engine running properly,I put it on the centerstand, held in the clutch and tried to get it into 1st gear...sounded like a rattlecan. Same thing in 2nd gear...That's when I knew the transmission would need some work.

I thought you may try this:

Put the bike in 2nd gear before you start it...Hold in the clutch and start the bike. If it's quiet, you'll be able to tell if it's the middle drive or rear drive because the problem with 2nd gear is that it won't engage properly when the engine is running...if my thinking is correct.

Correct me if I am wrong....

Tenorman

[MaximPhil]

Not Ian here,

You can only buy deoxit at radioshack. It is rather expensive coming in at just north of $16 usd for a 5oz can. There are two kinds, you need the one labeled contact cleaner and rejuvenator, not the one for use with gold (that one is about $25).

-not Ian

Hi phatts,
Thanks It would seem this product is aimed at the audio video market. I was looking in the auto stores. The only RadioShack near me does no carry it so must wait for visit to US. Atleast I now know where to look
Phil

[James England]

Hi phatts,
Thanks It would seem this product is aimed at the audio video market. I was looking in the auto stores. The only RadioShack near me does no carry it so must wait for visit to US. Atleast I now know where to look
Phil

in the Uk, it's on eBay too. Yes, it's marketed for audio, rather than automotive. It's wonderful stuff and I've done two entire wiring harasses with it. It's not cheap but worth it.

[IanDMacDonald]

Hey Phil-

I ordered two cans of the D100, which is 100% solution, vs. the 5% solution. It can be bought at Guitar Center.