Carburetor Slides

[russell]

Pulled the carbs apart for cleaning. When I removed the diaphragm/slides I failed to number them.
So when I cleaned and put everything back, how important is it to have the diaphragm/slides put back in the sequence they were removed?

I'm hoping it's not that important? Also question about the slides, when I push the slides up to check the operation of them, two inner slides return quickly, two outer return slow. Is this correct?

[SFerinTEXAS]

Short answer is it makes no diff.The needles and the needle jets (emulsion tubes) will ware in a pattern together. Where you are now is no time to worry about this. If that was the case then I would not have 8 yrs and 40+k on my 79sf.Most of us never thought about the question your asking with no ill results Get ready for a borage of opinions. BTW early or late models if that was an option done there.

[SFerinTEXAS]

Also question about the slides, when I push the slides up to check the operation of them, two inner slides return quickly, two outer return slow. Is this correct?

No. A good tech write is supposed to be here.After my time but a good bet to read for you.

[IanDMacDonald]

The two slides that are returning quickly: Do you hear positive vacuum? A good trick to test for holes or leaks is to first make sure your choke is off, then cover the intake bell crescent moon port with your finger. Lift the slide up, and it should stay. If it drops, u either have the diaphragm seated wrong, or it has holes. Open the caps back up, and make sure they are all seated. Easy way to seat them is to peel them back so the slide is looking like a mushroom, and seat them that way.

[mack]

slides

Without the moons covered they should operate freely. Something is wrong there. It doesn't matter which carb they go in. Make sure the tabs on the rubber are aligned properly with the notch in the bells. It may be a good idea to take them apart and switch the slides of 2&3 with 1&4 and see if the problem persists, if it does then the issue is in the carb body not the slides. Little creatures like to crawl in and nest in small openings so the chambers may be plugged on those two carbs. We have mud wasps up here that love places like that. Also if you have a small flashlight, turn it on and place it behind the rubber diaphrams and slowly rotate the rubber over the light. Do this in a dark room and you will see any pin holes and tears in the rubber before you reassemble the tops etc. Just a question though. Did you remember to put the springs back in those two carbs before putting the tops back on?

[IanDMacDonald]

Did you remember to put the springs back in those two carbs before putting the tops back on?

Lol, the only springs I have not forgot to put back in were the clutch springs. Everything else with a spring behind it has been forgotten at one point or another.

[skids]

Just a question though. Did you remember to put the springs back in those two carbs before putting the tops back on?

Yeah, that really sucks to get it all back together, ready to start, and then spot the springs in the cookie sheet.

[russell]

Thanks for the advice. Did start the bike up and found with the engine running it still rev’s after the choke had been released. Checked the throttle control and the cable were not sticking anywhere, but continued to keep revving around 4500.
Over the weekend will pull the carbs off and recheck everything.

Will also check to make sure I put the springs in.

[Rasputin]

JAT but a note to say that if your choke is open the slides will fall down very fast. You can block the kidney shaped hole with silicone and they will still fall fast.
Possibly you have partly opened chokes on those carbs which could also result in higher idle than expected. The still choked carbs will bring the others up to their level.
If you did a complete pull a part and clean including removing them from the rails, you may have a vacuum leak or an improperly set choke rail.
Most likely is that you have not got the diaphragm seated correctly on the carbs that are dropping too fast.

[mack]

sync

Some times a bad bench sync can cause the hanging idle or poor syncing practises in general. Since I'm not sure what procedures you used I can only suggest that you turn down the master idle knob so it idles at 1100 rpm. If the rpm won't come down at all then you need to look inside the carbs again.

[IanDMacDonald]

^ That, or leaky butterfly shaft seals

[James England]

I wouldn't worry. I buffed my slides lightly with chrome cleaner and also the bores of the carbs. I'd also use some RTV or similar when replacing the carb tops.