d'emily, if you get new boots affixed, and you take a good look inside the inlets, you might notice that the boots and ports aren't a perfect match. Ther might be a small rim of metal sticking out and distrupting the smooth flow. If you're feeling adventurous you can dremel the metal lip down to match the boots. I suppose you could call it a semi-port job. If you're lucky, you might feel a power boost.
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Carb boots
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Well,
I got a chance to put the old boots back on after doctoring them up with a gasket and copper adhesive. The bike seemed good. I sprayed the boots with WD-40 and it appeared to be sealed.
Now understand I have never been the type to try to doctor a worn out part up. If a part is worn I will usually just replace it and get it over with.
After thinking about it for a bit I decided to go ahead and get new boots. I figured the old ones probably would not last long, so I went to a local place that had them and picked them up. This morning before heading to work, I put the new ones on and fired the BIGDOG up and let it warm up. Fired up fine, but was idling at 1800! I cranked on the adjuster but the idle did not drop. I them adjusted the throttle cable and was able to get it back down to 1000. So even though the old boots did not seem to be leaking, they almost had to be. With these new ones on it took less throttle to idle and it became obvious that # 3 had been running real rich. It was probably the boot that was leaking air the most.
And I thought it was running really good before! I can't wait to get the carbs resynced and adjusted and take it out!
The moral of trhe story: If your intake boots are all cracked up and you suspect a leak, just replace em. Just get it over with and move on down the road.... really really fast!!!79 XS1100 f (BIGDOG)
80 XS650 Special
85 KAW 454 LTD
Dirty Dan
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My motor had a boot sucking problem too. Not only did I use hi-temp copper gasket sealer, but I coated the boots completely (twice) in liquid electrical tape. It soaked into all the little cracks and gave it a bit of a shine. I was able to use a little bit of rubbing alchol to get the finish smooth instead of brush marks. (ymmv)Tony K.
TonimusMaximus
Big Angry Scot - Clan Maxwell
New 1978 XS11E Owner
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Originally posted by TonimusMaximus
My motor had a boot sucking problem too. Not only did I use hi-temp copper gasket sealer, but I coated the boots completely (twice) in liquid electrical tape. It soaked into all the little cracks and gave it a bit of a shine. I was able to use a little bit of rubbing alchol to get the finish smooth instead of brush marks. (ymmv)
I have some old, cracked carb boots that I'm looking forward to covering with tool handle dip. I'll report back if my results are as good as yours.
I have one set of new carb boots that I'm hording but I don't want to use them until I have too.
GeezerHi my name is Tony and I'm a bikeoholic.
The old gray biker ain't what he used to be.
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Dipping the tool...
Where can I find the tool handle dip?
There's a Harbor Freight in town and they should
have the liquid tape but don't have tool dip according
to their web site. Will the liquid tape be able to stand
up to the punishment of the carb boot environment?
MikeMike
1986 Venture Royale
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Mike, Plasti-Dip is available at NAPA parts stores. That's where I found mine. A couple of applications would do the trick. I used it to repair a torn drive shaft boot. The warmer the product is, the thinner the coat will be. I applied it with an acid brush, and it flowed out smooth.
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Wal-mart, Ace Hardware along with some other auto stores in my area carry the Rust-Oleum Grip & Guard rubber coating in a spray can. I have used this product when I didn't have anymore Yamaha-bold 5. I cleaned off the boots sprayed 5 or 6 thin coats on the boots for a smoother textured look. Much better looking than my yamaha-bold 5 fixes.
Do'LeeDo'Lee
XS1100SF "Green Hornet"
(1) XS1100LG "Midnight Dream" Restoration has begun.
(2) XS1100LG "Midnight Madness" Waiting to be next
(5) multi partsters for bobber "Ruby Red II" On the list.
SR500H "Silver Streak"
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