? about signalwiring

[mrhammer2u]

I'm installing aftermarket front signals. They are a 3 wire design. What do I do with the 3rd wire (I'm calling the 3rd wire the running light). Do I cap it off and ignore it? Thanks!

[natemoen]

The xs turn signals ground through the stem. The turn signal wires are green and brown. Then there is a blue wire (don't remember if it is light or dark blue) in the headlight bucket that would be for the running lights if equipped. Same goes for the rear.

Keep in mind that if you want running lights in the back then they must be red to be legal. Only lights you can have constantly on in the back is red (license plate light doesn't count).

[IanDMacDonald]

I hope I never get pulled over for mine. Cops leave bikers alone unless they're speeding.

[mrhammer2u]

Nate,
The original signals that came off were only 2 wire which leads me to believe they were not meant for running light. I'm thinking I should just cap off the 3rd (running light) wire,....yes? I'm only talking about the fronts.

Just wanted to be certain before I button her all up.

[DiverRay]

Do a test and make sure you cap off the LOW OUTPUT side! Turn signals and brake lights use the higher Wattage, and running lights are low wattage. It is easy to wire in the running lights, if you want. Or, you could wire BOTH sides to one plug, and have brighter turn signals. I don't know what it would do to the flasher and self canceler, though.

[natemoen]

The specials did not have running lights, but the wire for them are still there you just have to go back to the headlight bucket.

[mrhammer2u]

The specials did not have running lights, but the wire for them are still there you just have to go back to the headlight bucket.

What do you mean Nate? The bike is a Special. I have the headlight open. You saying look for the blue wires if i want running lights?

[natemoen]

Yes, that is what I am saying. The wire will still be there even though the specials didn't use it (most of the fairings still used it though).

[fredintoon]

I'm installing aftermarket front signals. They are a 3 wire design. What do I do with the 3rd wire (I'm calling the 3rd wire the running light). Do I cap it off and ignore it? Thanks!

Hi mrhammer,
the aftermarket signals have 2 filaments? Usually 22W signal and 6W running light?
With all the blind-eyed car drivers around here I'd wire the two filaments together to brighten the signal.

[crazy steve]

Hi mrhammer,
the aftermarket signals have 2 filaments? Usually 22W signal and 6W running light?
With all the blind-eyed car drivers around here I'd wire the two filaments together to brighten the signal.

No, you don't want to do that... The lamp can overheat and burn out. If it's a brighter lamp you're after, go to a Harley dealer and buy their turn lamps; 27W on the brake/turn and a heavy-duty filament (they last on those shakers, no issues on a smooth four). About $4 each last time I bought some...

[fredintoon]

No, you don't want to do that... The lamp can overheat and burn out. If it's a brighter lamp you're after, go to a Harley dealer and buy their turn lamps; 27W on the brake/turn and a heavy-duty filament (they last on those shakers, no issues on a smooth four). About $4 each last time I bought some...

Hi steve,
you reckon? I'd suppose that if the lamps are wired in the normal way the sidelight filament is always on when the bike is running so both filaments are already on together each time the signal filament pulses.

[crazy steve]

If you run them as signals (intermittently) they're fine, but you still won't get a brighter lamp, just use more power. The higher-wattage filament will 'wash out' the lower one for no net gain...

[fredintoon]

If you run them as signals (intermittently) they're fine, but you still won't get a brighter lamp, just use more power. The higher-wattage filament will 'wash out' the lower one for no net gain...

Hi steve,
nah, the more the Watts the brighter the light.
If the two filament signal lights are set up in the usual way the running light filament and the signal light filament are both on during signalling to give (22+ 6 = 28) Watts worth of light.
With the two filaments ganged together they will draw the same power and give the same amount of light.
With the running light not connected all you get is 22Watts worth of light.

[mrhammer2u]

New question....

I plugged everything in and blinkers not blinking.
The rear lighting is LED (not sure that matters).
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rear-LED-Int...adb584&vxp=mtr

Front blinkers are aftermarket filament type.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CHROME-CLEAR...25d90a&vxp=mtr

I have rear running lights, brake lights, headlight but no blinkers (front or rear). I'm pretty sure the rear lights are connected property because I followed the easy instructions.

The 3 wire front signals I have wired power to power, running light wire (black) is capped off and the ground (black wire with white stripe) connected to the headlight bucket...metal on metal.

I tried using a 552 flasher,..no dice.

Am I missing something. Not grounded properly?

S O S

[fredintoon]

New question.... I plugged everything in and blinkers not blinking. - - - I tried using a 552 flasher,..no dice.
Am I missing something. Not grounded properly? - - -

Hi mrhammer,
if the flashers come on and stay on the lamp wattage is too low to trigger the flasher you are using.
If the flashers don't work at all you have fritzed up the wiring somehow.
BTW whatza 552 flasher?
If it's a 3-prong automotive flasher it's wired up different inside and won't work when plugged into the bike flasher's 3-way wiring socket.
A 2-prong auto flasher plugs into the bike's 3-way socket two ways. One way works, t'other don't.