Cam lobe delamination

[DiverRay]

Tonight I took all of the shims out of the motor that has a hole in the block and none of them are what I need.

Yeah, Murphy has a way of doing that! I had to buy a few to do the engine I'm working on now...

[Bartman]

So I pulled out the dreaded shim tool MP 08-0020 and was going to pull out the one shim......the tool's holes are back just far enough so the bolt won't go into the valve cover threaded holes. As I lot of people have said about this tool before, I also had a lot of trouble using it.
Looking closer I found that when I put the new cam in that at TDC the little holes on top of both cams are a quarter inch off. So I will just pull it one more time and hopefully get it right this time and swap the shims out.

[IanDMacDonald]

Weird, as it's the same tool I use for my 750's and 850's. It's never given me issues. Just used it last weekend on a co-worker's 850. No issues. And, are you sure u have no slack in the bottom of the chain when you install the cam? Is the chain stretched beyond use? Been there before, and I used the wrench on the cam to realign, and it never gave me issues.

[Bartman]

I loosened the bolts on the intake sprocket on the cam I was going to change and then pulled the ACT. I realized that I didn't have enough slack to pull the cam out. So I started to remove the exhaust sprocket Bolt without the tensioner in and the chain moved on me. I thought that I had it all back correctly with the holes up top and all, when today I see that the T was not at the arrow. I think it just needs to be move one tooth forward on both sprockets.

As far as the tool, I expect I can open up the holes so that the bolt will go in and tighten up with it sitting flat and square with the lobe and bucket. I will also look at it again for fit when the cam is out.

[IanDMacDonald]

Unless your tool is a dud, the only thing the tip of that tool should be resting on when you tighten it down, is the lip of the bucket. Throwing that tool on a mill and extending the holes will not hurt it. The only thing that can go wrong is screwing it down too tight and stripping the aluminum holes out, or turning the cam lobe onto the tool, and cracking the head. I'd like to see a pic of the tool screwed into the head, and where it meets near the bucket.

[Bartman]

I forgot to even look at the tool when I had the cam out tonight. I got the correct shims in and the cam holes pointing up and the T pointing at the arrow and was tightening the nuts to torque when several of the cap nuts/studs stripped out. I had just looked up the specs and checked the book again and found that I was using the sprocket torque of 14.2 foot pounds and not the 7.2 foot pounds! Long day!
So I guess that will have to get some heli-coils and fix them.

[skids]

Yes, easy to strip, but several? Now that is what I call perseverance! Not a problem. Just get new. PS, I think it was the studs that stripped, not the nuts when I had issues.

[Bartman]

Yes, I was thinking that the cam was being pulled down a little and did a little on all the nuts and several clicked torque but others started turning. So I figured it was time to walk away.
I agree that it will be the studs. What is the best way to fix? Drill and tap deeper and use longer studs or heli-coils or some other way?

[motoman]

I would suggest NOT re-using those same cam bearing caps either. A slight distortion from over-torque MAY have occured.

[skids]

The caps will be fine. There is no designed gap between caps and head so no warping. Just replace the studs that are stripped if it is the nut-end.

[Bartman]

Yes, I looked at the caps and they are solid looking, plus the weak link was the threads. Plus, I though that those were made in sets and should be kept together with top and bottom.....

I have ordered a 6mm helicoil kit and it should be here on Friday. I will replace all 10.

And next time remember to torque to 7.2!

[skids]

All 10? Really? You stripped the heads while turning the nuts onto the studs? Highly irregular man! Don't take a chance with helicoils if you don't need them because X% will be screw-ups. I am probably missing the point here...

[Bartman]

Ok everyone.....I "Assumed" that the studs were stripped in the head. So I didn't touch it until the helicoil kit came in and I also bought an inch pound torque wrench this morning. When I started to remove the nuts today I found that the nuts were all stripped! Steel spring looking shavings were wrapped around the studs. So I chased the stud threads and stole the washers and nuts from the other bike and everything fell in place and torqued correctly. Got everything buttoned up and synced the carbs then took a little ride!