Front brake help needed

[Mr. Schweer]

I needed to replace my front brake lines on my SF. I ordered a 2 line SS kit through Amazon. Got them and slapped them on straight to the master cylinder. Now I have zero brake pressure. Yes, I bled them. I did NOT use the top line or the proportioning valve. Do I HAVE to use the proportioning valve? Do those go bad? I replaced the lines because the right side was holding pressure and the brake was dragging. I am wondering if that went bad and that was causing the problem.
Help??
TIA

[motoman]

I needed to replace my front brake lines on my SF. I ordered a 2 line SS kit through Amazon. Got them and slapped them on straight to the master cylinder. Now I have zero brake pressure. Yes, I bled them. I did NOT use the top line or the proportioning valve. Do I HAVE to use the proportioning valve? Do those go bad? I replaced the lines because the right side was holding pressure and the brake was dragging. I am wondering if that went bad and that was causing the problem.
Help??
TIA

Internally, sounds like the caliper pistons are 'hangin' up. Likely cruddy in there unless you've altready had them apart If not, they need to come apart and at least cleaned. There is no proportioning valve anywhere on these systems.

[jetmechmarty]

Mr. Schweer,

On the lower triple tree is a splitter. One line goes in from the top and two go out to the calipers. Is this your proportioning valve? OK, so instead of replacing the three lines, you bought two longer ones, correct? So, now you have a long banjo bolt at the master cylinder, correct? If your brake lever is floppy, you have fluid leaking out, or air in the lines. I expect you did not get rid of the air. It can be a PITA. Is the master still working? Does the cylinder return? If not, you could have hyper extended it.

FWIW, the original three line system is better than what you now have. It's best to keep line length to a minimum, and you have added a couple of feet. Yours will work fine, especially with the lines being braided steel, but adding line should never be recommended, IMHO.

While you're having this difficulty, it might be a great time to disassemble the master cylinder and calipers and get them clean. There are a lot of threads on here about struggles bleeding brakes. It seems it's never easy, and I really think that's your most likely problem.

[IanDMacDonald]

I'll offer my advice, as I've asked the very question after my adaptation of SS lines. I read all the threads (pages of them!), and found the best way to bleed is not a Mity Vac (hose does not keep a good fit), not Speed Bleeders (useless with tons of air in the lines), not ANYTHING except reverse bleeding the lines. Buy a plastic turkey baster and attach a piece of tubing to it small enough to fit over the caliper bleed screw. Fill the baster with Dot 3, turn it upside-down and tap it just like on TV to get the air out, push just a little of the fluid out, and attach the hose to the baster and bleed screw. Hold the hose tight to the bleed screw and slowly push the fluid in. Watch your resovoir so u don't overfill it. Be aware at any point that hose can fly right off the baster. Close the bleed valve and pump the brake. Nice & firm! Repeat for other side. Tie the brake handle to the bar overnight and ur golden. Of course this is all contingent on rebuilt MC and calipers . . .

[Bikes]

I'll offer my advice, as I've asked the very question after my adaptation of SS lines. I read all the threads (pages of them!), and found the best way to bleed is not a Mity Vac (hose does not keep a good fit), not Speed Bleeders (useless with tons of air in the lines), not ANYTHING except reverse bleeding the lines. Buy a plastic turkey baster and attach a piece of tubing to it small enough to fit over the caliper bleed screw. Fill the baster with Dot 3, turn it upside-down and tap it just like on TV to get the air out, push just a little of the fluid out, and attach the hose to the baster and bleed screw. Hold the hose tight to the bleed screw and slowly push the fluid in. Watch your resovoir so u don't overfill it. Be aware at any point that hose can fly right off the baster. Close the bleed valve and pump the brake. Nice & firm! Repeat for other side. Tie the brake handle to the bar overnight and ur golden. Of course this is all contingent on rebuilt MC and calipers . . .

I use a trigger pump oiler, the kind usually full of oil....i keep one seperately for brake fluid, just for reverse bleeding...cheap at most any parts store....

[Bikes]

Like this.....

[Mr. Schweer]

Wow, thanks guys. I did already order the caliper rebuild kits, so we'll see if that's it. The last time I bled the fronts, I used a shop-vac and small dia vacuum line to suck the fluid down the lines! Worked great and in only a few minutes.

[IanDMacDonald]

Please make sure u follow the threads regarding a proper caliper and MC rebuild! Those grooves where the seal sit need to be squeaky clean! If pistons are hit, buy new from HVC.