Tweet
I reviewed this post in the repair section for the regulator and have questions for the writer...
Alternate checking procedure:
A current must be produced into the field coil for the stator to produce charging voltage. A bad regulator will not allow this. The result will be the misconception that the alternator is bad. To check this out:
Leave the volt meter hooked up across the battery to check charging voltage.
Unhook the field coil connector clip from behind the fuse panel.
Hook a ground to one wire of the field coil.
Jumper the positive side of the battery and get the other
end of the jumper ready to provide current to the field coil at the clip.
Start the bike and read the voltage.
Touch the remaining wire of the field coil and observe the voltage response across the battery.
Also observe the tachometer. If the alternator is good and the regulator is bad, the tach will start working and the voltage will start rising.
Question: Should both wires of the coil be 'jumpered' to something? IE: One to ground, one to positive?
Thanks,
Tom Brant
Alternate checking procedure:
A current must be produced into the field coil for the stator to produce charging voltage. A bad regulator will not allow this. The result will be the misconception that the alternator is bad. To check this out:
Leave the volt meter hooked up across the battery to check charging voltage.
Unhook the field coil connector clip from behind the fuse panel.
Hook a ground to one wire of the field coil.
Jumper the positive side of the battery and get the other
end of the jumper ready to provide current to the field coil at the clip.
Start the bike and read the voltage.
Touch the remaining wire of the field coil and observe the voltage response across the battery.
Also observe the tachometer. If the alternator is good and the regulator is bad, the tach will start working and the voltage will start rising.
Question: Should both wires of the coil be 'jumpered' to something? IE: One to ground, one to positive?
Thanks,
Tom Brant