Chop Wiring Diagram?

[cgross220]

Hey all, I'm currently working on a high performance build on an 81 XS1100SH. I have been mostly working on the wiring, going by Jim's XS Chop diagram, but ran into a few problems and decided to see if I could make my own. I believe I now have it figured out but am sure I'm missing something so if ya'll have any input it would be greatly appreciated, as I am definitely new to all this and just trying to learn.
Thanks,
Caleb

[Bikes]

No power to the fuel light.....

[cgross220]

Oh wow...OK well imagine a red line going to the fuel light too haha

[TomB]

Coils permanently live?

No horn?

And you can run the brake light from the rear light live so reducing the amount of fuses, horn uses same live too.

No light switch? I like being able to turn off the lights when starting.

No Tacho feed?

[cgross220]

Would I just need to wire the coils to the "start" position on the main switch?

No, no horn. I'm not planning on riding this on the road much if ever, and definitely not in the city. Plus if I am correct its not required by the state of Alabama (where I'm at).

I figured I'd have the lights come on with the start switch too, and then just a high beam on/off switch. Any reason why this isn't a good idea?

I purposefully left the tacho off for now, not that I don't plan on having one but I don't have the gauge yet and if you can't tell I'm no expert with wiring and want to keep things as simple as possible until I get the tach to wire up. If you look though I did put two meter lights on for the speedo and tach.

[TomB]

Would I just need to wire the coils to the "start" position on the main switch?

From your red/white wire

No, no horn. I'm not planning on riding this on the road much if ever, and definitely not in the city. Plus if I am correct its not required by the state of Alabama (where I'm at).

If not for road riding you won't really need lights and brake light, I have a (mainly) track bike, it has no lights, horn, speedo, just a reg plate for the occasional road ride. JAT.

I figured I'd have the lights come on with the start switch too, and then just a high beam on/off switch. Any reason why this isn't a good idea?

If its not a regular used bike your battery may not be charged too often, always nice to turn off the lights when starting bike like that, more battery power to starting.

I purposefully left the tacho off for now, not that I don't plan on having one but I don't have the gauge yet and if you can't tell I'm no expert with wiring and want to keep things as simple as possible until I get the tach to wire up. If you look though I did put two meter lights on for the speedo and tach.

The two meter lights is why I assumed a tacho, though XS11 meters have two lights each so could be both for the speedo. You say its a "high performance build", I would expect a tacho more than a speedo.

Caleb some of these are my preferences, I only mention them to give you ideas, you already have a clear idea of what YOU want so run with it. Just the coil wire that needs sorting, and you can feed the brake light from the red fused live to get rid of a fuse, even a standard XS1100 is wired that way.

Tom.

[cgross220]

Wire the coils to the red/white wire from the starter relay I would assume?

That is true, however I would like to keep the brake lights in place just for safety reasons and the headlight in case I do any night riding.

I didn't think about charging the battery, now that you mention it I probably will add a switch light.

I will definitely get the tach wired in, I very much do not want to run without it.

Thank you for your feedback, like I said I'm very new to all this and just trying my best to learn, mostly by messing up first Hopefully I'll be able to figure the rest of the wiring out now, but if not I'm sure I'll be right back here!

[crazy steve]

Combine the taillight, gauge lights, brake lights on one 15 amp circuit, feed the ignition from a 10 amp circuit through the switch, and bump your 'main' fuse size to 30 amps; 20 won't be big enough. The wire in this circuit should also be #10 all the way from the battery to the fuse panel. Retain the OEM battery/starter/engine-to-frame cables.