More wiring/ electrical issues..

[MetalMaxx]

Purchased bike.. 1982XJ1100J...
noticed tape covering red light on dash.. Didn't care, will fix..
battery discharging, buy new battery.. NOT Battery.. purchase charger, keeps up battery for 150 miles, since I don't ride 150 miles ever, I'm good on that.. TIRED of that.. Tach stops working.. Buy new brush set and install. Still nothing.. Check "Green/ brown", check Voltage at battery, check all three whites.. ALL of these are NOT up to standard.. (less voltage when running and revved to 2G than when sitting still and NOT running.)
Brown/ green checks LOW on ohms, as well as white wire checks.
I am at a loss. Can someone give me the next step to this puzzle.. Stator? Whatever?
Bike starts and runs GREAT just will not charge.

[kevxs]

Sorry can't offer any specific help, but i'm sure I speak for many here who would say not to bother with anything until you've cleaned every connection on the bike.
Perhaps you've already done this but if not all it takes is a can of electrical contact cleaner, take off headlight bucket, seat, gas tank and fuse block, unclip every connector / connector block, spray, clip it back on and off a couple times and repeat as necessary until they look clean.
There is a big white plastic block behind the fuse block that was hiding really dirty connectors on my bike. I wouldn't bother chasing electrical problems until I know all the connectors are clean. It only takes an hour or two.

[CaptonZap]

I am at a loss. Can someone give me the next step to this puzzle.. Stator? Whatever?
Bike starts and runs GREAT just will not charge.

Go to this site, http://http://www.ringler.us/family/mybike.html

look down the right side till you see the XJ manual, download it, and follow the directions for testing the electrical components. Take notes, and if you don't have success, bring your questions and notes back here and you will be in a better position to utilize the knowledge base of the forum.
The procedures in the manual systematically eliminate the various components from the fault, so that at the end, you don't have to guess about what's wrong.


Just as a smart ass aside, have you checked the brushes?
CZ

[DiverRay]

CZ:

.. Buy new brush set and install. Still nothing..

So yes, he DID replace the brushes. I would do as kevxs said, and start with cleaning ALL connections. My thing is to use anti-seize on ALL ground connections. It's oil base keeps things from oxidizing, and keeps a good ground.
IF that does not work, and testing brings you down to the regulator/rectifier, go to oregonmotorcycles and pick up a new one from Tony. Any other part may be available from members here, or ebay.

[TomB]

As Kev says, connector block.

You say the Tach stopped working, on the XS1100 it takes a signal from one of the white wires from the alternator and when that connector is corroded bad it melts from heating up and stops the tach working, I'm not up on the XJ1100 to know if they suffer with the same problem but an easy fix to try before spending $$$$$

[crazy steve]

[QUOTE=TomB;455734] ... I'm not up on the XJ1100 to know if they suffer with the same problem ... [QUOTE]

The XJ suffers from the same electrical maladies as the XS, with a few more thrown in for good measure... Yep, clean/check all your connectors... Replace the melted ones...

[TomB]

Good to know for when I ever get my XJ11 on the road

[Jeff Pattee]

Electrical

Also, as an insurance policy, I ran an extra #10 ground wire from the rectifier to the neg. pole of the battery.......took out the middleman, so to speak

[MetalMaxx]

Thanks guys. I am going to CLEAN everything.

Thank you all for your responses. Going to clean all the connectors and grounds and search for melted ones as well. I am not a happy camper about that stuff
.

Off topic but.. Do I need the SPIDER gas pump dealio for the gas to flow to the carbs or can I go grav feed?

[TomB]

You may not find the one that melts too easily, its generally behind the thin steel plate that the fuse box is screwed to, it connects the white wires from the alternator into the loom.

There are 3 x M6 screws holding the thin steel plate to the battery tray on the right side, its under your right side panel.

HTH
Tom

[DiverRay]

Do a search on "octy", and you should be able to find instructions for going just the two petcocks. Basicly, take the octy off, run a fuel line from the REAR nipples on the petcocks to the carbs, and block the front nipples with something. We usually run from the left side to the right side carbs, to keep the fuel line from kinking.

[crazy steve]

Do a search on "octy", and you should be able to find instructions for going just the two petcocks. Basically, take the octy off, run a fuel line from the REAR nipples on the petcocks to the carbs, and block the front nipples with something. We usually run from the left side to the right side carbs, to keep the fuel line from kinking.

Here you go.... http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35443

[MetalMaxx]

Go to this site, http://http://www.ringler.us/family/mybike.html

look down the right side till you see the XJ manual, download it, and follow the directions for testing the electrical components. Take notes, and if you don't have success, bring your questions and notes back here and you will be in a better position to utilize the knowledge base of the forum.
The procedures in the manual systematically eliminate the various components from the fault, so that at the end, you don't have to guess about what's wrong.


Just as a smart ass aside, have you checked the brushes?
CZ

ALL Smartazz aside as well.. The absolute FIRST thing I did after purchasing the bike was got ALL manuals for it. I even found a wiring diagram I can actually see.
Thanks and peace to you.

[CaptonZap]

OK, lets start with the alternator coils.
Page 6-20 of the Yamaha manual gives us the reistence values of the two coils.
You stated that you checked the green and brown wires, but the manual shows that you should check the brown and red out of the regulator for charging voltage with engine running.
Ohms check,
Green and black is the field coil.
White to white for each of the three stator coils.
What ohm readings do you get with those tests?

Page 6-21 gives the method of checking the diodes in the regulator, and be careful as to the polarity of your leads.
Try that and let's go from there.

CZ

[MetalMaxx]

Checked and checked again.

I was stating Green/ Brown from memory (only a couple cells left in the brain) it was indeed Green/ Black the reading was nill. If I'm then reading right the coil is bad. BUT the bike runs.. Can it run with bad coil?
The manual says to check voltage at the battery in mine on 6-20 having done that at the battery and revved to 2K I was getting LESS voltage than with the engine off. (off- 12.9) (revved 2K- 12.4) as for the white to white can't remember the reading but it wasn't any where near .37 Ohms.