Clutch time

[Pat Kelly]

After sitting so long, 750 final drive swap, and being the original parts...
it's time for a new clutch.
Having been away from the forum for awhile, what is the current recommended clutch set-up?
I remember being advised to avoid Barnett steels as they were wavy. I think their frictions were ok but then so were the OEMs.
This engine is still stock. I'll be replacing the clutch in the LG also, it has the 1196 kit and that one was slipping too.
I have one or two spare clutch sets (basket. steels, frictions, springs, and star thingie) so I probably have a good set or two of steels, though I don't mind buying new steels "just to be sure".
Thanks Y'all
Pat Kelly

[BA80]

More than likely all you need is anew set of Barnett springs Pat. These clutches just don't wear out but the springs do get weak.

Order up a set of THESE and I'll bet you have a new clutch.

[donebysunday]

+1 You can even get away with using just three of the Barnett springs in each clutch. Check steels for warp, clean friction discs in solvent (I use gas). Inspect, hit em with a fine SS detail brush rinse off with fresh gas, let dry, soak in engine oil, install. Whether you use 3 or 6 new springs lube up that cable and lever pivot. Might even want to install new cable and save the old just in case ?

[BA80]

+1 You can even get away with using just three of the Barnett springs in each clutch. Check steels for warp, clean friction discs in solvent (I use gas). Inspect, hit em with a fine SS detail brush rinse off with fresh gas, let dry, soak in engine oil, install. Whether you use 3 or 6 new springs lube up that cable and lever pivot. Might even want to install new cable and save the old just in case ?

I completely disagree with the 3 spring thing. Why in the WORLD would any right minded person not just replace them all? We're only talking $17 a set. That's a bit like just buying one new shoe.

I've actually never even taken the clutch apart since I learned that they really don't wear. I just put in new springs and go.

[motoman]

I completely disagree with the 3 spring thing. Why in the WORLD would any right minded person not just replace them all? We're only talking $17 a set. That's a bit like just buying one new shoe.

I've actually never even taken the clutch apart since I learned that they really don't wear. I just put in new springs and go.

Big +1!............good to hear from ya' again Pat. As Geg stated, the original plates/disc are NOT the issue, and likely will NEVER be. Barrett springs ARE your clutch disc/plates friend.

[motoman]

I completely disagree with the 3 spring thing. Why in the WORLD would any right minded person not just replace them all? We're only talking $17 a set. That's a bit like just buying one new shoe.

I've actually never even taken the clutch apart since I learned that they really don't wear. I just put in new springs and go.

Big +1!............good to hear from ya' again Pat. As Geg stated, the original plates/disc are NOT the issue, and likely will NEVER be. Barrett springs ARE your clutch disc/plates friend. Also, stay away from 'adding a steel'......does nothing more than bind springs tensions and change travel dimensions/distances........actually FIXING the issue is what's needed.

[ViperRon]

I had clutch slip and went with new Barnett springs sanded the metal plates put washers in etc etc still would eventually slip and then saw a sale on Ebay for a set of frictions but advertised them as working on many models R1 and including the XS1100. They are paper packed frictions which is one of the newer technologies so I read several articles and they seemed ok so I put them in and now have no slip and have had no issue with them. The oil seems to run cleaner so I am sold on them. This was last year and I see them advertised on Ebay from time to time. Mine were like 30.00 shipped so then the cost was cheap but now they have been a little more expensive. The only comparison difference was the pads were not as large as the originals for XS1100 but more of them. The one thing is for me they cured the slip. No I do not use synthetic and the thickness of the originals still were with in spec. I have the 1198 japan overbore kit in also.

[BA80]

Not to start an oil thread but what oil are you using Ron?

[donebysunday]

I completely disagree with the 3 spring thing. Why in the WORLD would any right minded person not just replace them all? We're only talking $17 a set. That's a bit like just buying one new shoe.

I've actually never even taken the clutch apart since I learned that they really don't wear. I just put in new springs and go.

It's not the cost of the springs it's the extra strain it puts on cable, lever etc.. Try them in an XS11 and you won't feel much difference in the pull, (good design) BUT it's there. Try them in a XS650 and you will know, after 780 miles in 36 hrs. through the curves on Wild Cat Mountain try your best and not be able to pull the clutch lever. Just saying if your clutch is just starting to slip all you need is a little bit to get it to lock up.
As far as cleaning up the steels and friction discs, lubing cable and lever you can't go wrong.

[BA80]

It's not the cost of the springs it's the extra strain it puts on cable, lever etc.. Try them in an XS11 and you won't feel much difference in the pull, (good design) BUT it's there. Try them in a XS650 and you will know, after 780 miles in 36 hrs. through the curves on Wild Cat Mountain try your best and not be able to pull the clutch lever. Just saying if your clutch is just starting to slip all you need is a little bit to get it to lock up.
As far as cleaning up the steels and friction discs, lubing cable and lever you can't go wrong.

If it ain't broke don't fix it.

I've replaced the springs on 3 of my personal bikes and yes, the pull is a little harder but the clutch works. My hand adjusts to it. I've replaced 1 clutch cable in 5 years. I can live with that. I put about 14k to 16k on my bike a year in all riding conditions.

Even with the stiffer springs I get a little slip now and then. Especially when the oil is cold.

Ever been to Arkansas or North Carolina on the twisties? You should come ride with us sometime.

[donebysunday]

If it ain't broke don't fix it.

I've replaced the springs on 3 of my personal bikes and yes, the pull is a little harder but the clutch works. My hand adjusts to it. I've replaced 1 clutch cable in 5 years. I can live with that. I put about 14k to 16k on my bike a year in all riding conditions.

Even with the stiffer springs I get a little slip now and then. Especially when the oil is cold.

Ever been to Arkansas or North Carolina on the twisties? You should come ride with us sometime.

Like I said the 11 has a great clutch actuator, hardly notice increased pull but the extra strain is there nonetheless .
My dad and I drove a bit in OurKansas, we took many of the roads between Timbo, Mountain View, Mountain Home, Pocahontas, Alexander and Little Rock many more that had no names. Have a sister in Branden and brother in Timbo. Love to go for a ride there with you guys ! About 12 hrs. to Little Rock from here.

[BA80]

There are a few who venture down her now and then. Cruiser from Minnesota, Bob Falter from Iowa, Oseaghdha from Wisconsin. Dragon Tamer used to come down too before he passed. You would be in good company.

Not sure it'll happen just yet but.... http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=43193

[ViperRon]

Now using the 20W50 cheap Walmart oil Tech something and clutch slipped with it before no matter if Castrol or the expensive race oils for wet clutches. Pulled out all washer shims adjusted normal with the Barnett springs and the clutch now works fine Greg. I took the frictions out cleaned them checked for warp and thickness all was fine with old frictions.Years ago my bike was left idling for hours by my son burnt rings out and all parts set for many years and then I rebuilt it so maybe the heat damaged them. I am not saying everyone needs new frictions but in my case the paper ones worked when I had tried everything else and I was not going to spend more than $100.00 on some friction plate kit to see if it fixed the slip.

[BA80]

Oh yeah, you told me that story. Sorry, I'm getting old and feeble minded.

I was asking about the oil because the newer friction materials are much more tolerant of modern oils. I just don't see the logic in spending money so you can spend extra money on newer formula lubricants.

[ViperRon]

Link

Here is a link to similar friction plates on EBay. At the bottom it explains the advantages of the paper material over asbestos rubber cork based material. They are not that expensive and as I said these are interchangeable with so many Yamaha bikes. http://www.ebay.com/itm/8pcs-Clutch-...b3665d&vxp=mtr