81 SH project

[phatts27]

That explains why I was getting them mixed up so easily on disassembly. Any idea what I bought? They are labeled as "air jet -oem cv 185". Can anyone here use them?

Thanks motoman for all the help. I'm definitely still a noob but I'm learning a little everyday.

[motoman]

That explains why I was getting them mixed up so easily on disassembly. Any idea what I bought? They are labeled as "air jet -oem cv 185". Can anyone here use them?

Thanks motoman for all the help. I'm definitely still a noob but I'm learning a little everyday.

Hard to do as all three locations(main,pilot,air-jet) use a different configuration of jet.

[phatts27]

I'm having a hell of a time bench syncing my carbs. #4 keeps changing its stop spot. I checked the butterfly and there seems to be some play that none of the other carbs display. Is this a symptom of worn shaft seals or something else? I started to disassemble the carb and thought to make a video.

Here's a vid of the slack

[phatts27]

I'm thinking it's not the seals because there's no lateral movement. It seems like the throttle bracket must be worn under the throttle shaft end (seen in this photo).

Is a tac weld here out of the question? Maybe Andreas is my best bet.

[phatts27]

Here's a vid again, the first one stopped working apparently. http://vid44.photobucket.com/albums/...pszrnqz1zs.mp4

[DiverRay]

A tack weld will probably ruin the carb body because of the heat. If you have a large soldering iron, that WILL work. Use silver solder, CLEAN everything well, and put flux on the shaft and link then solder QUICKLY. Solder melts at about 400F, and if you do it quickly with a big iron(for mass), it should work fine.

[motoman]

A tack weld will probably ruin the carb body because of the heat. If you have a large soldering iron, that WILL work. Use silver solder, CLEAN everything well, and put flux on the shaft and link then solder QUICKLY. Solder melts at about 400F, and if you do it quickly with a big iron(for mass), it should work fine.

+1.......apparently that factory 'crimped' location on end of shaft has worked loose a bit, causing the squared off place to 'round' a bit causing rotational movement.

[Eastcoaster]

Ed

I think that's the carb body I gave you?

Why not take the parts off your carb body you originally had with the broken float pin that was in the rack and replace them in the new carb body that way they will all that match the carb rack and have the same wear.

Take the screws out of the butterfly and slide it out put the original in

[phatts27]

Thanks guys, great advice. Motoman is right, welding it would probably just destroy the carb. Soldering it with a torch iron would be a much less risky move. It's the tiniest bit of slop, but it will never run right if it can't stay centered.

Eastcoaster, that was my first choice but I hit a brick wall trying to remove the plate. Both screws came out fine but the throttle plate will only move around a bit, (spin it, make it off center) It can't cleanly come through the shaft slot to allow for a complete disassembly. I threw the screws through a die and retapped the shaft and slapped it all back together.

I'll try again to get the plate out of the body. If I can't pull the old switcheroo, I'll solder it up.

Looking closer at my (2) #4 carbs, I see that they are different. The throttle shaft stop bracket on my carb is different than the same bracket on eastcoaster's carb. Original carb can only open 100% whereas newscasters carb opens maybe %110.

[donebysunday]

Both screws came out fine but the throttle plate will only move around a bit, (spin it, make it off center) It can't cleanly come through the shaft slot to allow for a complete disasembly. I threw the screws through a die and retapped the shaft and slapped it all back together.

I'll try again to get the plate out of the body. If I can't pull the old switcheroo, I'll solder it up.

That plate will come out, using a tiny screw driver as a wedge move the plate as far in one direction as possible. Use the screwdriver as a wedge to slightly/gently put just a bit of pressure in between the slot. If that does not do it move the plate to the other side and do the same just gentle. If this doesn't work get another screwdriver and wedge them both into opposite sides of the shaft. Put some rubber or leather over the tips of a pliers and pull it out.
Or forget all this, drill 2-4 holes in the space between the shaft and the stopper/adjuster where it's slipping, (get it in the right position before drilling) fill the holes with JB Weld or drill and tap for tiny screws.

It's hard to get those plates/butterflies back in right, leave the screws a little loose and watch for the light under the plate to disappear make sure you tighten in this position then bench sync again.

Looking closer at my (2) #4 carbs, I see that they are different. The throttle shaft stop bracket on my carb is different than the same bracket on eastcoaster's carb. Original carb can only open 100% whereas newscasters carb opens maybe %110.

You don't need 110%.

[phatts27]

Thanks! I got the throttle plates off no problem. Now, I can't seem to get the throttle shaft out from the carb body. On the parts carb, the throttle shaft came right out. I'm thinking maybe the end of the shaft was hit with a hammer or something that caused the metal to be a tad wider at the end. I soaked it in pb blaster in case it was crud holding it in to no avail. I then threw it in the freezer hoping the shaft would shrink more than the housing. Again, no go. I put it back in the freezer and I'll hit the housing with a torch in the morning and see what that does.


The bracket is almost not in the pic but here's a comparison shot. Just curious, why might they be different? I'm pretty sure they're from the same year, same model.

[Eastcoaster]

No torch you will fry the seals does the gas station across the street have a press you might be able to press it out a large vice might do it

[donebysunday]

Thanks! I got the throttle plates off no problem. Now, I can't seem to get the throttle shaft out from the carb body. On the parts carb, the throttle shaft came right out. I'm thinking maybe the end of the shaft was hit with a hammer or something that caused the metal to be a tad wider at the end. I soaked it in pb blaster in case it was crud holding it in to no avail. I then threw it in the freezer hoping the shaft would shrink more than the housing. Again, no go. I put it back in the freezer and I'll hit the housing with a torch in the morning and see what that does.

Aluminum reacts more/faster than steel to temp change. So by getting them cold the aluminum will shrink more than the steel making the shaft hole in the carb tighter. I think using the oven when the wife is gone at under 200°, maybe less (?) would be all you could do.
Did you use the small screwdrivers to expand the slots to get the plates/butterflies out ?
Maybe expanded to much, (bent them a bit ?) and that is why the shafts won't come out ?

[phatts27]

No, I didn't use the screwdrivers to open the slot. I pulled it out like young king Arthur: gently with 2 fingers, I gingerly pulled it through the slot. It Must have been magic because no amount of force would set it free.

The seal on the free end is removed but the bracket side seal remains. I figured if I froze it then heated it up, the steel shaft would stay cooler longer than the aluminum and the hole might have enough clearance to let it through. I don't want to ruin the seal because it looks new. Drilling bracket and either bolts or cold weld seems like my best option now.

[phatts27]

I'll try the oven first. I guess if I stay under °110 F the remaining shaft seal won't melt. I'm thinking 20 minutes.