81 SH project

[phatts27]

Hey guys,

About a month ago, I posted that I needed someone to rewire my SH. Eastcoaster pulled through and gave me a SH parts bike that was cought in hurricane Sandy.

I've finally swapped just about every bit of the electrical to my mule and I'm ready to hear her run for the first time. I rebuilt the carbs and charged the battery, now I'm ready to go.

Today, I assembled everything and attempted a start. It would crank and crank but wouldnt fire. Every 4 pulses from the starter I would however hear some signs of life. Now the battery is dead again.

I'm almost there guys! Now I'm just waiting for my battery to get fully charged and I'll be ready for another try.

PS: I'm not sure if this could have caused a rough running condition but I found that the previous owner had installed a 2h7 tci. I put the correct 4r0 tci in its place and I'm wondering; what else did this guy change? Next I'll tear into the motor to make sure my ignition timing mechanism is the correct type.

I'll keep you guys posted.
Ed

[phatts27]

Here's a vid of me today trying to get her started


https://m.youtube.com/?#/watch?v=Ob4r7OWq-Ls

[cajun31]

your video is not working for me.

[phatts27]

Sorry, didn't think about it. That first link is for mobile devices. This link should work on a desktop.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ob4r7OWq-Ls

[donebysunday]

Sorry, didn't think about it. That first link is for mobile devices. This link should work on a desktop.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ob4r7OWq-Ls

Did you check the plugs for wet fuel, if wet, smell one for smell of fuel (you have fresh fuel in it right ?). You have wet with fuel plugs, your not getting spark or your flooding it out. Check for spark, no spark try a new plug still no spark make sure the contacts on the coil are clean and that the fuse holder is tight, connection behind the fuse block good ?

[phatts27]

I had regapped the plugs that were in there instead of buying new ones. After reading a recent post on no start issues caused by older plugs, I went to autozone and picked up 4 copper non-resistor NGK #7333. I'll install them tomorrow.

The gas is fresh today and the carbs are clean.

I'm not sure of the main fuse connection, I'll check it tomorrow. The coils tested good, so I will double check my connections.

I can almost taste it.

[Eastcoaster]

make sure you have spark to all 4. If you have some not sparking check the connection at the plug cap sometimes you have to cut back the wire also check the resistance of the cap I had one cap that was bad..

[MaximPhil]

Hi Ed,
Correct plug is NGK BP6ES
Gap 0.028 to 0.032 " ( .7 to .8mm) Tightening Torque 14.5 ft/lb
According to the factory manual.
Phil

[phatts27]

Phil, you had me worried I bought the wrong plugs. BP6ES use the stock #7333. Phew! Thanks for the specs.

[MaximPhil]

Phil, you had me worried I bought the wrong plugs. BP6ES use the stock #7333. Phew! Thanks for the specs.

Now we can both stop worrying
Phil

[cajun31]

Everyone is making good suggestions. To start it needs fuel, compression, spark. Sounds like you have the fuel part done. Check each plug while out connected to wire for spark. Don't know the history of the bike. I do remember your previous thread but not the details if there were any other then the wiring harness was a mess. As has been stated in other threads if the bike is not getting good compression you will have problems with starting. After you check for spark try it and if it still fails the compression would be my next step. Valve clearance etc....

and before someone else says it ... are you positive the carbs are good?

[jetmechmarty]

Tightening Torque 14.5 ft/lb
According to the factory manual.
Phil

I did not look up the torque spec. I suspect that is dry torque. If you use anti-seize compound and 14.5 ft/lb the plug will be over-torqued. That's something to keep in mind. With a new plug, I use seated, plus one half turn. Subsequent torque of the same plug, I use seated, plus one quarter turn.

[phatts27]

Today was a wash, literally! My workspace is unfortunately outside and today brought near freezing temperatures with non-stop rain. I'll be able to check my work once the weather clears up a bit. Today wasn't a total loss, however. I cleaned some rusty, heavy pitted chrome bits with salt, vinegar and aluminium foil, followed by some watery baking soda. Wow it works really well!

I took my time with the carbs so I don't think they are a problem, although one float was initially stuck when I let the fuel flow. I gave it a good whack with some pliers and that problem resolved.

I know on my xs650, if I attempt to remove one of my plugs to check the spark, I could fry my coils. Is this not the case with the xs11? The idea is to remove the plug, reinstall the wire and hold the plug to the motor for ground, right? Do I hold the gapped end to the metal or near the metal? Thanks again

[bikerphil]

You should be safe cranking the engine with the plug laying on the top of the motor to check for spark. Make sure it is making ground contact of some sort. It is bad for the coils to remove the plug wire from the plug when the engine is running, that can burn them out.

[skids]

Hey guys,

PS: I'm not sure if this could have caused a rough running condition but I found that the previous owner had installed a 2h7 tci. I put the correct 4r0 tci in its place and I'm wondering; what else did this guy change? Next I'll tear into the motor to make sure my ignition timing mechanism is the correct type.

Ed

That sounds a bit suspicious to me. If the PO was using a 2h7 black box, it is possible that the pick-up coils were also swapped to the older type. the 4RO box with the old pick-ups/advance unit will cause severe timing issues. (was this already covered?)