Bought a spare

[Crusty Snippets]

I picked up a Midnight Special. Engine, rear end with brake, front forks and steering head, air box and a few other small pieces like the tail light.

Not sure if the fork tubes will fit my 79 Special. Frame is 4W2 000199.
So I have the main components to keep mine running should something serious happen.

Unkle Crusty

[Old Red]

It’s better to have extra parts and never need them, than need a part and can’t get it.


The Other Earl

[Schming]

I picked up a Midnight Special. Engine, rear end with brake, front forks and steering head, air box and a few other small pieces like the tail light.

Not sure if the fork tubes will fit my 79 Special. Frame is 4W2 000199.
So I have the main components to keep mine running should something serious happen.

Unkle Crusty

Hi UC, the MNS forks are 37mm just like the SF's

On my upcoming SF Euro Conversion I'll be using the MNS forks as they, for one, are the proper color (blk) and most importantly I can adapt dual pot calipers to them.

[crazy steve]

Most of the components are direct interchange with your SF, but more than a few aren't. The LH had the 'split' braking system like the XJ (actually, this is where the XJ got it's brakes) and the calipers, master cylinders, and lower fork sliders are all different. These also have a different ignition system ('81 only); the TCI box isn't the same, and the motor lacks the mechanical advance. Frames, seats, and side covers are different. There's also some relatively minor differences in the wiring harness, so that's not a direct swap either. But even so, there's still a fair amount of bits that will work as-is. Spare parts are always good....

[Crusty Snippets]

Spare

Started removing parts.
Looks like the back brake is connected to the front. Noticed a few fuse type things different with the wyring. Wyring harness is in good shape. Front forks look good. Used the solenoid already, as mentioned in my other post. Has a set of Kerker 4 into 1 pipes. They look good. Not sure about the rear caliper until I get it off. Steering head parts should be okay. And the engine has good written on it. Seat is okay. Needs to be recovered. Tail light is good.
I think that is about it. Will look at it again in about two weeks.
Got 3 1/2 inches of snow last night and sitting on about 25F.

Unkle Crusty

[Crusty Snippets]

Another one

Looked at a 1980 XS1100G standard today. Low miles, mint condition, not run for over 10 years. Has Vetter fairing, lowers, bags and top box. All the chrome is good, so are the front forks.

Will likely pick it up later this year. I will make this the two up cruiser bike.
The 79 special will be used for the side car, and the MNS will get the cafe styling.

Unkle Crusty*

[Orange4]

Look like there are still some XS11s hiding away. Good finds!

[Crusty Snippets]

Find

Look like there are still some XS11s hiding away. Good finds!

This one is in a garage in Burnaby gathering dust. Owner is 70, has cancer and is not doing well. It is definitely a show bike. Will not move the bike until the current owner is gone. Papers are already signed, for me to transfer into my name.
Have about 8 more days of work on my boat, then I will take a look at Yami, and try and figure out why he quit.

Unkle Crusty*

[Crusty Snippets]

Laramie

I now have the mint 1980 ( Laramie ) in my possession. Have all the brakes off and apart. Took the carbs off and cleaned them, adjusted the float bowls. 110 main jets in all four. Spark on all four plugs. Engine running but a bit of spitting out of a least one carb. Air filter is off.
Compression. 95 135 137 100, left to right. Genuine Yamaha manual says max is 156, normal 142, and minimum is 128. Have not tried the oil in hole compression test. Book says rings or valves. Engine has not run since about 1998. Anyone else have experience with an engine that was sitting for a while, and low compression?

Unkle Crusty

[DiverRay]

Yes, If it's been setting for that long, you will need to run it, I.E. ride it, for about 400 miles minimum BEFORE you worry about the compression value. The rings could be stuck, and Seafoam or Barryman's B12 will be needed to help free them up. Just try and ride for a while, and change oil again, then re-test after about 300 miles and see how much closer it is.

[Crusty Snippets]

Run it

Thank you Ray. I will pore more oil in the holes next week and let it sit for a while. Launch date for Laramie is next spring. I will run him for the miles you suggested. He will be a sunny day and two up cruiser.

Unkle Crusty

[DiverRay]

Rather than just oil, try ATF*. The anti-oxide components in ATF make it much better at cleaning any rust off the insides of an engine. I use a 50/50 mix of ATF and Acetone to loosen rusted bolts, etc. Works better that almost ANY store bought spray can.
*Automatic Transmission Fluid, the cheaper the better.

[Orange4]

Further to bikes that sit, when I got mine running this year, after it sat at the PO's for years, it was burning a lot of oil. I rode it for a few hundred miles on expensive LUCAS motorcycle oil and the oil consumption dropped a bit but I got fed up with wasting all that $$$oil so I switched to Castrol GTX diesel 15w40 because I can get it by the case at Costco for half the price. It immediately stopped excessively burning oil. Still does a bit because it's a vintage motorcycle but way way less now.

Don't worry, Crusty, she'll recover.

[Prothec]

... switched to Castrol GTX diesel 15w40 because I can get it by the case at Costco for half the price. ...

Not to turn this into an oil thread, but I run the same oil from Costco. I used to run Walmart brand oil, but would much rather spend my money at Costco

I also get Mobile 1 from Costco for my cars.

[Orange4]

Another thing you might want to do is run some lead substitute for a few tanks. I know it's been claimed on this forum that these bikes don't need seat lube, but my valve train begs to differ. Redline makes a good one.

As for the store that shall not be named: If you ever need to be 100% sure that you are somewhere I'm not, go into a Walmart.