Clutch adjustment frustration

[MetalMaxx]

Even with...

Even with the outer pressure plate installed it all was loose. I am now to the point where I need a mechanic. I am tired of messing with this thing. I have the case off and the outer pp removed. I HAVE WATCHED VIDS AND SEEN PEOPLE JUST RECHING IN AND PULLING THE ENTIRE ASSEMBLY OFF WITHOUT ANY PROBLEM. Mine does not come off or go on like theirs does. The assembly when I first removed it was a PAIN. Getting it back on was just as hard. I am in no shape to handle this crap.
I am in Dallas, TX area and in need of ANYONES help.
If YOU can help or know of someone who can in MY AREA please contact me.
PM would work well.
Thanks
Ed

[adam79]

Should've updated this awhile ago, but I found the trick. The trick is the phrase 'lightly seated' in the manual. This leads one to think that at the first sign of any resistance on the adjusting screw (while screwing it back in to set adjustment) means the adjusting screw is lightly seated. That was my problem, I would feel a resistance then stop, back off an 1/8 of a turn, then get pissed off when the clutch didnt fully disengage the the engine/tranny.

This last time, I started the bike and warmed it up about %75 then turned it off. I loosened up the cable at the handle bar to give me some slack. Then down at the engine I took the cable off the adjuster arm, I know this isnt necessary, but I wanted to make sure nothing interfered. I unlocked the nut, then unscrewed the adjustment screw.

Next, I screwed it in but didnt stop when I felt resistance. I went all the way in until there was zero lash (till the adjustment screw was bottomed out), from this point, I backed off the screw between an 1/8 to a 1/4 turn, then locked the nut I had to pry up the adjuster arm lighty with a large flat head screwdriver to get the cable to fit into its retainer. Then I gave myself about 2mm of slack at the handle bar and locked it in place.


The bike shifts PERFECTLY now. the clutch fully disengages when I pull the handle. God it feels good to ride the bike with no slipping or clutch issues. Wish I didnt have to sell it.

The moral of the story here is, you will feel resistance on and off while you're screwing in the adjustment screw, DONT trust that that means it's starting to seat. Go until the adjustment screw has actually bottomed out, then back it off just slightly

Thank you BA80 and Top Cat!

[BA80]

Glad you got it. Now that you have acquired the feel you won't have any more problem adjusting it. It will need readjusting periodically due to wear on the components.

[padarjohn]

I've been struggling with this problem myself for a while now, and I'm still looking for a solution.
I've got an '81 XS1100H with ~46,000 miles on it that I've been trying to clean up. I finally got around to the clutch issue.
Given the age and mileage I thought it might be a warped plate, so I rebuilt the clutch with new plates/springs. That didn't help. So I tried adam79's approach.
I kept tightening the screw a little at a time, until it was completely bottomed out - it literally won't turn any more. It never helped, and the clutch still grabs. It's close - with it in 1st gear and the clutch pulled in I can easily grab the wheel and stop it. But shifting is still clunky.

I'm sort of at my wit's end here. There should be more than enough movement to separate the plates.

Any ideas/suggestions would be appreciated.

[BA80]

These transmissions are clunky anyway.

[padarjohn]

These transmissions are clunky anyway.

OK, let me put it a different way. Shifting from neutral to 1st I can feel the gear teeth rotating against each other.

I've been riding for a long time (40+ years) and this isn't normal. This is actually the 3rd XS1100 I've had recently and neither of the other two had this issue (the others had/have other issues - frame/carbs/exhaust/ - that led me to this one).

I still have one of the previous two - I'm trying to clean it up enough to sell. It's a '79 Special, and I'm tempted to swap clutch assemblies. But it's a PITA draining the oil and pulling things apart just to put it back together again.

[MPittma100]

OK, let me put it a different way. Shifting from neutral to 1st I can feel the gear teeth rotating against each other.

I've been riding for a long time (40+ years) and this isn't normal. This is actually the 3rd XS1100 I've had recently and neither of the other two had this issue (the others had/have other issues - frame/carbs/exhaust/ - that led me to this one).

I still have one of the previous two - I'm trying to clean it up enough to sell. It's a '79 Special, and I'm tempted to swap clutch assemblies. But it's a PITA draining the oil and pulling things apart just to put it back together again.

If you are referring to a loud clunk, you are experiencing a normal condition. Don't assume something is wrong with the clutch. When adjusted properly, the clunk is still going to be there. Make sure your idle speed is not too high. Should be around 1100 RPM. The higher the engine speed, the louder the clunk will be.

If I got on an XS11 tomorrow that did not clunk from neutral to first, it would be the very first one. Keep in mind that the transmission gears in these bikes are "straight cut" gears. They are noisy, but stronger than helical cut gears.

[padarjohn]

If you are referring to a loud clunk, you are experiencing a normal condition.

Yeah, I know what a normal "clunk" sounds like.

Just to make sure I'm not imagining things due to the smoke wafting around here in Oregon I'll put the '79 back together and try it for comparison. Now that I got the gas out of the crankcase (don't ask... ) I'm just waiting for the oil filter and new filter bolt to show up (the previous owner stripped the head on the old one).

[JeffH]

btw, What is the idle RPM?

To recap: you are saying Neutral to 1st it grinds and clunks. Then also shifting the gears 2 to 3 or 3 to 4 whatever, it also clunks bad?

Does clutch slip at all under acceleration in any gear?

Jeff

[padarjohn]

btw, What is the idle RPM?

To recap: you are saying Neutral to 1st it grinds and clunks. Then also shifting the gears 2 to 3 or 3 to 4 whatever, it also clunks bad?

Does clutch slip at all under acceleration in any gear?

Jeff

Yes, pretty much. And no, I couldn't detect any clutch slippage. I took it out for a long test drive and cranked the throttle in the higher gears, and it seemed pretty solid.

Idle RPM is ~1,000RPM.

[Blank Slate]

My clutch was a little clanky when I went from first to second, so I decided to adjust the clutch. I adjusted it so that it cant go to any gear with that aweful metal grinding noise. I've read the manual, read a few threads, tried the tech tip, saw a video that I thought explained it (https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=4oYFW1rycKU), but it still wont get into any gear.

This is what I've tried:
I screwed the clutch adjuster at the handle all the way in
I took the clutch cover off
loosened the bolt
tried many different depths of the adjuster screw
then i secure the bolt while keeping the adjuster in place
unscrew the clutch handlebar adjuster out and tighten
im able to get the pressure tight or loose
but whenever i turn the bike on and try to change gears i get grinding ��

whats blank slate doing wrong?

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Blank,

You say you tried several different depths of the adjuster rod/screw??
What is the technique is to loosen the lever lock nut, turn the rod/screw outwards until you can tell it's loose/not making contact with the throwout bearing. THEN slowly turn it back inwards(CW) until it just makes contact with the throwout bearing, then turn it back out 1/4 CCW and then lock the lock nut and test it out. If you still get the grinding, then loosen locknut and turn 1/4 turn CW, relock and retest. IT can be difficult to tell when the rod makes contact with the throwout bearing. The symptom of gear grinding is that the throwout rod isn't pushing the pressure plates far enough apart to allow the plates to slip adequately.

T.C.

[Blank Slate]

Hey Blank,

You say you tried several different depths of the adjuster rod/screw??

T.C.

TC, I've tried the adjustment screw all the way in, backed out 1/4, another 1/4, another 1/4, etc.... but it keeps grinding. Im futzing around with it now. maybe i should record a video

[Blank Slate]

man, i gave the bike a push and changed gears and it worked. f me!

[motoman]

man, i gave the bike a push and changed gears and it worked. f me!

I would hope you had cable unhooked at the lever when you adjusted the throw-out assembly.