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  • #1

    Front Brake has no power

    Hey guys,

    I have a new to me xs1100. I have it running smoothly and the next project is the brakes.

    The back brake is plenty strong when I step on it. I'm going to drain it, put in new fluid, and new pads.

    However, the front brake has zero stopping power. It doesn't feel like it grabs at all. What's the first thing to do?

    I'm assuming a drain, refill and new pads will help but do I need a new master cylinder, etc? How would I know?

    Thanks!
    79 F
    Tags: None
  • #2
    Well, first thing you need to do is figure-out if the brake is dragging. Is the rotor hot after riding? If so, the answer is yes. Also, elevate the front wheel and give the wheel a good The Price Is Right tug. Does the wheel rotate freely at-least a revolution or two, or three? If not, brake is dragging. The most common issue is the spooge hole in the front master cylinder being plugged.

    When I work on the braking system, I work on one component at a time and stay organized, taking pictures of how things were just in-case I forget. In your case, I'd start with what you already know, with one caveat. You are already will be draining fluid from the system, so obviously a bleed procedure will be necessary. Let's do a couple things here. First, know that your front brakes ARE your brakes. Riding with no front brake is extremely dangerous, and a good reason to cease & desist on riding till you get it fixed. Now that we got that out of the way, let's talk budget. You will need a rebuild kit for two calipers, pads for each caliper, as-well as a front master cylinder rebuild kit. Looking at $100 and change.
    1979 XS1100F
    2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.

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    • #3
      Now, if ur good at brakes, count-on the bike being down a day once you disassemble the calipers, install new kits, rebuild master cylinder, etc. However, if your first time touching this stuff, count on a weekend affair.

      The calipers are harder, as that channel the O-ring sits in has to be immaculately clean so the new o-ring can seat properly. The pistons have to be free of rust and gouges, otherwise the piston will ruin your new o-ring. If you find you need new pistons, go through hvccycles.com.

      Rebuilding the master cylinder is straight forward, it's the cleaning part that is tedious. The spoogehole is a tiny orifice on the inside bore. I use compressed air and a bread tie to guarantee cleaning with mine. You could use whatever you feel does no damage to the hole. I would advise to use something softer than the metal of the MC.

      Anywho, last bit of advice I have for you: reverse bleed your brakes. Nothing simpler. I've done it every way, I.e. (Mity Vac, Speed Bleedersetc.), and this is simplest. Get a turkey baster with the plastic tip. Attach a piece of tubing firmly on the end of it, suck up a good vial of brake fluid, turn it upside down, tap the air out of the syringe as you see in the movies, and attach it to the bleed nipple. Hold the hose on there, and push the plunger in. If I was you, I'd not only have your MC rubber cap on, I'd have your tank off and away of any possible spray of brake fluid. Brake fluid fills the master cylinder, and line is full. Close nipple, take out majority of fluid from MC, and repeat with other line, and it done. Wrap the handle overnight, and you have solid brakes in the morning.
      1979 XS1100F
      2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.

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      • #4
        Front brakes

        + 1 on what Ian said.
        .How are the fork seals? If they are blown they probably contaminated The pads..Don't want to go through all the work of bleeding and replacing pads only to saturate the new pads...
        78standard,79 & 80 Specials; 2 x 650 Maxims; 4 x RD350's; yz450; 2 x Honda tlr's;2x jt1 mini.

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        • #5
          Brakes

          Here are a couple of threads I had back in the spring before I rebuilt mine. You might find the discussion useful before you do yours. http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=41592 and http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=41610. I would also suggest that you read through the tech section of the forum concerning master cylinder and caliper rebuilds. Well worth the read.

          I used the red rubber grease inside the calipers and the master cylinders and the sylglide grease for my non rubber contacting surfaces and my brakes have never been better. Depending on your budget it might well be worth the investment in SS pistons so you never have to worry about pitting again. I would suspect you will find some pitted pistons when you disassemble the calipers. Most everyone does and it is due to the moisture naturally absorbed by the brake fluid over time and then having that moisture sit on the pistons. The SS pistons alleviate this problem as they are more resistant to corroding pitting and you will never get rid of the moisture. As your brakes stand right now you will really never know why you have no power until you completely disassemble them for inspection. One thing for sure is don't ride the bike until you are 100% sure the brakes are solid and don't cut corners doing the job right. DOT 3 brake fluid is what is called for.
          2 - 80 LGs bought one new
          81 LH
          02 FXSTB Nighttrain
          22 FLTRK Road Glide Limited
          Jim

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          • #6
            Originally posted by rdmcguy View Post
            + 1 on what Ian said.
            .How are the fork seals? If they are blown they probably contaminated The pads..Don't want to go through all the work of bleeding and replacing pads only to saturate the new pads...
            I like the way you think. Outside the box (brake system). Excellent point, and something that should be fixed well before the brake system. I will forever keep this on the mental checklist. Thank you.
            1979 XS1100F
            2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.

            Comment

            • #7
              Originally posted by IanDMacDonald View Post
              First, know that your front brakes ARE your brakes. Riding with no front brake is extremely dangerous, and a good reason to cease & desist on riding till you get it fixed.
              Originally posted by cajun31 View Post
              ... As your brakes stand right now you will really never know why you have no power until you completely disassemble them for inspection. One thing for sure is don't ride the bike until you are 100% sure the brakes are solid and don't cut corners doing the job right.
              A BIG +1 on this advice! The brakes on these bikes need to be in tip-top shape to adequately stop these beautiful beasts ...

              And even in tip-top shape, they can use a little help, such as SS brake lines. But you can worry about that after you take care of your M/C, calipers, pads, etc.



              By the way, WELCOME to the Forums, Nick!

              Lots of good suggestions on your brake issue already ... before you tackle it, check out these 2 threads concerning master cylinder rebuilds and the dreaded "spooge hole" ...

              http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=37209

              http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=14
              Marco

              Current bikes:
              1979 Yamaha XS Eleven Special (SF)
              1979 Honda CBX
              2002 Kawasaki ZRX1200R

              Rest in Peace, Don Glardon (DGXSER) 1966-2014
              WE MISS YOU, DON

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              • #8
                You guys are awesome! I appreciate all the help! Once I get the brakes done, I can finally take this baby out for her first ride!
                79 F

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