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New 14mm Front Master Cyl. Bleed Question

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  • New 14mm Front Master Cyl. Bleed Question

    Just a quick question: I ordered the MC that Phil suggested. The plan is to fill it on the handlebar, pump it with my finger over the hole till fluid comes out, then attach the banjo fitting for a final bleed with the bleed screws. Anything I'm missing?
    1979 XS1100F
    2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.

  • #2
    Jat

    Hi Ian, You could hook up an old, clean brake line to the MC and submerge the free end in the MC reservoir and work the lever til no air bubbles appear.

    Don't forget the rag on the painted parts, but you know that
    1980 XS1100G "Dolly G" Full Dresser (with a coat of many colors )
    1979 XS1100SF (stock-euro mods planned)
    1984 XV700L Virago (to be hot-modded)
    1983 XJ750MK Midnight Maxim (semi-restored DD)
    1977 XS650D ( patiently awaiting resto)

    Sometimes it takes a whole tank of gas before you can think straight.

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    • #3
      Ian, your method sounds like what I did, it did take a little longer to bleed than ones I've done in the past, YMMV. One thing to remember with a MC with a fluid sight glass is to remove the top whenever you are compressing the caliper pistons, the window may pop out otherwise. GL
      Last edited by bikerphil; 10-05-2014, 09:49 PM.
      2H7 (79) owned since '89
      3H3 owned since '06

      "If it ain't broke, modify it"

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by bikerphil View Post
        One thing to remember with a MC with a fluid sight glass is to remove the top whenever you are compressing the caliper pistons, the window may pop out otherwise. GL
        I read that sentence out-loud many times before it made sense to me. Gotcha. However, the only time I assume I will compress the pistons will be to change the pads. Some kind of caliper/rotor upgrade is inevitable over the Winter.
        1979 XS1100F
        2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by IanDMacDonald View Post
          Some kind of caliper/rotor upgrade is inevitable over the Winter.
          With different calipers that 14MM MC may/may not work for you.
          2H7 (79) owned since '89
          3H3 owned since '06

          "If it ain't broke, modify it"

          Comment


          • #6
            Well, for $35, it'll work for now, lol.
            1979 XS1100F
            2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.

            Comment


            • #7
              Pictures Ian remember we need to see pictures of your MC conversion.
              Phil
              1981 XS1100 H Venturer ( Addie)
              1983 XJ 650 Maxim
              2004 Kawasaki Concours. ( Black Bear)

              Comment


              • #8
                I'll take pics of everything pre/post install Phil. It might require a day or so to bust-out the laptop for a more formal review of everything.
                1979 XS1100F
                2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.

                Comment


                • #9
                  At the bike shop we are constantly cleaning/rebuilding master cylinders. One thing good about bikes is: in most cases if the piston is horizontal, the line is vertical with no loops for air to get trapped, the brake line will bleed itself of air. Leaving only the little bit in the caliper. With Master cylinder and piston level, push lever and hold, wait 5-10 seconds to allow bubbles to climb back up the line toward the MC. Release and repeat, you should see bubbles escape the tiny hole closest to the banjo in the reservoir. The trick is to wait with lever held, the bubbles climb slow. Of course once bubbles end, finish with usual caliper bleed.

                  Note: once the line is free of air, squeeze the lever much slower or a nice fountain will jet out of aforementioned micro hole

                  If I missed the question completely, I second the: loop a hose back around from the banjo to the reservoir to prime the master.
                  Matt
                  81H Rebirth/Custom Build
                  1st Gen RX7; Audi quattro; Wrangler JK
                  PanikSwitch Cycles - Brewer ME
                  http://s48.photobucket.com/user/Arth...201100%20Build

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                  • #10
                    Also good to tie the lever closed overnight to purge the micro bubbles.
                    and maybe fill from the caliper nipple instead of the m/c.
                    80 SG
                    81 SH in parts
                    99 ST1100
                    91 ST1100

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                    • #11
                      we need to see pictures
                      Notice how the aluminum cap is oxidizing only after 6 months....



                      2H7 (79) owned since '89
                      3H3 owned since '06

                      "If it ain't broke, modify it"

                      Comment

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