Or you could start over with a frame that is complete. According to boats.net the '81SH and '81LH used the same frame...here's one if that's an avenue you want to pursue --
New XS1100SH Build
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A close look at your pics shows that you have the tail section of the frame that got hacked off. What's keeping you from sleeving it internally and welding it back on? You may even have the section that goes from the tank to the tail section, the same applies to that. If not, I don't think it would be that hard to weld on sections to join the rear section to the front part.
I'm not a frame specialist by any stretch of the imagination so I don't know what is involved in getting the frame straight and true, but since you have all the parts to weld back together I would give that a try first before buying a frame and having mismatch numbers you have to justify.1980G Standard, Restored
Kerker 4 - 1
850 Rear End Mod
2-21 Flashing LED Arrays on either side of license plate for Brake Light Assist, 1100 Lumen Cree Aux Lights,
Progressive springs, Showa rear shocks
Automatic CCT
1980GH Special, Restored
Stock Exhaust, New Handlebars, 1" Spacer in Fork Springs, Automatic CCT, Showa Rear Shocks
'82 XJ1100 (Sold)
Automatic CCT, RC Engineering 4 X 1 Exhaust, K&N Pods, #50 Pilot Jets, YICS Eliminator. Sorely missed.Comment
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The past few months I've spent a fair amount of time researching monoshock builds. One specifically caught my eye on a streetfighter site with an xs11.
Hey guy's ( Dont know how i missed this site for so long) i have been inspired by BlackBII Trippin Tripple build and the other xs850-750 builds now its time for my big daddy of the XS range to play This is my bike atmo, i have had it for a while (since new 1980) It has been crashed into by...
The big question is this. If you are to monoshock, will it be a direct push design or a cantilever design? Direct push is just that, shock directly connects the swingarm to the frame. Cantilever arms use a specifically shaped hinged mount for the shock that moves inderectly with the swingarm in a predetermined ratio. I.E. the swingarm moves 8 inches and the shock compresses 3.5 inches. Manufacturers and engineers design the entire shape, movement and overall geometry of the swingarm to work specifically with the shock/spring preload, spring rates etc. Dirtbikes have the easiest cantilever systems to observe and get ideas from due to their open viewable design. The streetfighter xs was a direct push design, although it appeared that a cantilever coil over was used. In my research I remember specifically that the xvs650 Vstar uses a direct push coil over, partially horizontal fitment, and holds a fair amount of weight, given the geometry of a low heavy cruiser. At first glance, the OEM position of the 650's suspension and mount are in the general ball park of an xs11 monoshock build. If I were to continue my path down monoshock lane, I would start with a well planned strengthening brace on the stock arm, followed by detailed testing of mounting positions using an xvs650 shock. It may very well end up being too small for the 11, but it seemed like a good place to start for me.Matt
81H Rebirth/Custom Build
1st Gen RX7; Audi quattro; Wrangler JK
PanikSwitch Cycles - Brewer ME
http://s48.photobucket.com/user/Arth...201100%20BuildComment
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Sorry everyone, I've been pretty busy with midterms and work. I have 12 hours left in a 48 hour shift now and test tomorrow so hopefully you can understand haha. The only work I've been able to get done on the bike so far is cleaning all the corrosion out of the petcocks and putting all new gaskets on, as well as cleaning small things like the kickstand/centerstand.
Or you could start over with a frame that is complete. According to boats.net the '81SH and '81LH used the same frame...here's one if that's an avenue you want to pursue --
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1981-81-Yama...870de6&vxp=mtrA close look at your pics shows that you have the tail section of the frame that got hacked off. What's keeping you from sleeving it internally and welding it back on? You may even have the section that goes from the tank to the tail section, the same applies to that. If not, I don't think it would be that hard to weld on sections to join the rear section to the front part.
I'm not a frame specialist by any stretch of the imagination so I don't know what is involved in getting the frame straight and true, but since you have all the parts to weld back together I would give that a try first before buying a frame and having mismatch numbers you have to justify.
The past few months I've spent a fair amount of time researching monoshock builds. One specifically caught my eye on a streetfighter site with an xs11.
Hey guy's ( Dont know how i missed this site for so long) i have been inspired by BlackBII Trippin Tripple build and the other xs850-750 builds now its time for my big daddy of the XS range to play This is my bike atmo, i have had it for a while (since new 1980) It has been crashed into by...
The big question is this. If you are to monoshock, will it be a direct push design or a cantilever design? Direct push is just that, shock directly connects the swingarm to the frame. Cantilever arms use a specifically shaped hinged mount for the shock that moves inderectly with the swingarm in a predetermined ratio. I.E. the swingarm moves 8 inches and the shock compresses 3.5 inches. Manufacturers and engineers design the entire shape, movement and overall geometry of the swingarm to work specifically with the shock/spring preload, spring rates etc. Dirtbikes have the easiest cantilever systems to observe and get ideas from due to their open viewable design. The streetfighter xs was a direct push design, although it appeared that a cantilever coil over was used. In my research I remember specifically that the xvs650 Vstar uses a direct push coil over, partially horizontal fitment, and holds a fair amount of weight, given the geometry of a low heavy cruiser. At first glance, the OEM position of the 650's suspension and mount are in the general ball park of an xs11 monoshock build. If I were to continue my path down monoshock lane, I would start with a well planned strengthening brace on the stock arm, followed by detailed testing of mounting positions using an xvs650 shock. It may very well end up being too small for the 11, but it seemed like a good place to start for me.81 SHComment
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So I don't know if anyone's still reading this thread, shoot I hardly still ambut I figured I'd post on here before I make a whole new thread.
I was debating between doing a front end swap or keeping my same forks and decided on keeping the same forks to try and prevent bottoming out...however, one of the bolts on my lower tree (part 28 and the matching bolt, #32 on any parts diagram) has broken off inside of the tree. It shouldn't be too crazy tough to get it outbut i can't find the part on ANY parts website I've looked at...I was wondering if anyone has the parts lying around, or any alternatives?? Maybe even just the specs on the nut/bolt so I can go find something close enough to work. I guess my last option is to take out the one from the other side and bring it to a machine shop to get another made but if thats even do-able it sounds...expensive.
81 SHComment
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The stock forks will never be a match for large diameter modern forks. As you upgrade these components, you just expose the next weakness. After all, this is a +35 year old machine.
The stock forks can be improved. If they're bottoming out, the fluid level is likely too low. Air compresses. Too much air space and the forks bottom. To little air space and you blow out the fork seal. I believe I have 130 mm air space in mine, measured from the top of the fork to the top of the fluid. The springs were too soft when new, now add 33 years. Many like new Progressive springs. I opted for straight rate springs and emulators. It's no longer the same motorcycle.Marty (in Mississippi)
XS1100SG
XS650SK
XS650SH
XS650G
XS6502F
XS650EComment
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Take the other bolt to a Fastenal or Hardware store, metric bolts, and match it up that way. I know metric uses a different standard marking than USA Standard...but a grade 5 equivalent should be sufficient vs. a grade 8.
As to getting the other one out....apply generous amounts of PB Blaster, and then some cycles of heat from heat gun. Are just the threads section broken off/stuck, or did the hex head break off and so the unthreaded shaft is also still attached?
IF it's just the threads, then it can screw thru out the other side of the clamp, so a regular right hand drill bit may be enough to grab it while you're drilling thru it to get it to rotate on thru/out?? IF the hex head is broken off, then you will want to see about getting some reverse twist drills to try drilling into the shaft in a CCW direction, and again the action of drilling alone may be enough to grab and twist the bolt out!?
T.C.T. C. Gresham
81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
History shows again and again,
How nature points out the folly of men!Comment
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Let me know if you don't have any luck at Fastenal. I've got a parts frame/bike in the back yard and may be able to take a look this weekend and see what the specs are on the bolt for you if needed.Jason
Montgomery, AL
80 XS1100SG Daily Driver
81 XS1100SH (Getting ready for an engine rebuild)
86 Honda Magna V45 (sold)Comment
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