One sticking front caliper

[300kph]

I've got an extremely low mileage '78 XS11 and have been riding it for 3 years now. My right front caliper has tightened-up to the point the bike does not roll freely. I went for a ride last night and while it runs and handles like new this brake issue has developed. After my ride I checked the rotors and the left was cool to the touch and the right one was very hot. Obviously dragging.

Funny thing is, the feel and action of the brakes if just fine. No squeal or anything like that. It would appear the right rotor has somehow "closed up" a bit.

NOTE: When I got the bike I had a shop go thru it and do everything including the brakes. Its worked flawlessly until just recently. In retrospect I noticed the bike was difficult to back out of it's parking space but thought it was just me as I thought "Man I forgot how heavy this thing is". It was obviously binding at that point.

I have several bikes and only log a few hundred miles on the bike yearly and it is stored indoors and in a heated facility over our long, cold winters so it's not like its been parked under a tree.

I'm not a brake expert so does anyone have any advice before I start working on it?

Thanks!

Wayne

[andreashweiss]

right brake caliper

good morning, would suggest you start by taking the front brake master off and giving it a good cleaning, paying particular attention to the small return holes at bottom. Fluid most likely is not returning quickly enough. Then take off the right caliper and disassemble and clean. The metal clips that the brake pads rest one can get dirty and hold the pads in place rather than sliding back.

[Radioguylogs]

I'm thinking if the LH is OK and the RH is sticky, then the RH caliper has corrosion, rust, and dried brake fluid around the seal.

If this is true, you can clean with the caliper/piston and reuse the seal if you think it still looks good.

The only hard thing is how to get the stick piston out. Options are (1) Compressed air (2) Use one of the motorcycle master cylinders (3) Grease gun on the bleed fitting.

BTW: If this turns out to be the problem, the other calipers are probably going to drag within the next year or two.

[cajun31]

300

I agree if you have one sticking then you would be better off cleaning both calipers and the master cylinder. Go to this link and read all the threads on the page. Explains what the spooge holes are etc... http://www.xs11.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=34

[jetmechmarty]

The spooge hole is blocked.

[TADracer]

After you get your brakes done, a bit of preventive maintenance goes a long way. Change your brake fluid every year and replace with only the recommended fluid. A small hand held vacuum pump makes it about a 20-minute job.

[trbig]

One other thing worth mentioning.. You can find stainless steel caliper pistons on Ebay for @ $25. This way, you can take piston corrosion out of the equation for future problems.

[mack]

Caliper pistons

Thats on my "things to do"list over the winter. My SF had pitted piston close to the top and I cleaned them when I first did the restore but if I drive in the rain after being on a dusty road the pits load up and they start to bind. I'm going to replace the pistons with the stainless for sure.

[cajun31]

Stainless is well

worth the investment. Did mine this spring and my brakes have never been better. I hate to keep harping on this but an investment in some red rubber grease for use on the calipers and masters will ward off binding as well. You can get the stuff on Ebay or amazon but a small amount goes a long way. Here is a thread I started back in March. We had a good discussion on the stuff.... http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=41610. For the stainless calipers go to http://www.hvccycle.com/brake-caliper-pistons.html. They carry them at a reasonable price and you can get all three in one purchase.