Changing Fork Oil

[MaximPhil]

Do I HAVE TO remove the forks from the bike in order to change the fork oil ?

I thought not but having got half way through the process I find I am unable to introduce oil into the left side fork. I drained...making a hell of a mess the oil from the right and added 212ml through the schrader valve.
The left looks the same but will not accept oil. Can I remove the top of the fork while still in the bike. Time and energy both in short supply at this time plus weather forecast call for rain.
Thanks
Phil

[rombat]

I haven't tried this method but it is much simpler than removing the forks

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=156

This is the Festus method from the maintenance section

[CaptonZap]

Do I HAVE TO remove the forks from the bike in order to change the fork oil ?

I thought not but having got half way through the process I find I am unable to introduce oil into the left side fork. I drained...making a hell of a mess the oil from the right and added 212ml through the schrader valve.
The left looks the same but will not accept oil. Can I remove the top of the fork while still in the bike. Time and energy both in short supply at this time plus weather forecast call for rain.
Thanks
Phil

No, but you might have to remove the top cap unless you want to Festus around with it. The fact that you cannot get the oil to go into the left one indicates that there is a blockage in the cap. Take the Schrader valve out, and make sure it is clear. Add oil through the hole. Reinstall the valve and go ride.
If you can't get the oil to go in after you take the cap off, get a flash light and look down the hole. Poke a chop stick down there, and it should go in most of the way. DON"T drop it in.

CZ

[jetmechmarty]

Phil, what are ya doin'!? It's late in the game to be breakin' stuff! Doncha think?

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Phil,

C.Z. covered most of it, but if even after taking the actual schraeder valve out, it still won't accept fluid, you can take the fork cap off, just need to release the top TT clamp first. IF you can jack the engine frame UP to get the front wheel off the ground, that will take a lot of the tension out of the spring so that it will be easier to get the fork cap back ON after refilling with the fluid. There are special tips and tricks to get the fork cap back on without stripping the threads. Remove spring first, get the cap back on where it just starts in the threads, then pull and unscrew it until the cap releases, STOP mark the tube and cap with a marker to help you determine the place to position the cap so when you're trying to push down on the reinstalled SPRING, it'll start threading fairly quickly. There are other tips like using a piece of wood or socket to help push down on the cap while trying to start the threads.

T.C.

[MaximPhil]

Thanks TC,
I will tackle the left side again in the morning.
First picrure is the aftermath of the right side drain. I was told to "tie a rag around it before bouncing to remove the oil" No one mentioned that 90% of the oil would shoot out as soon as I removed the screw None landed on the rag some on my jeans but most on the driveway
Clean up in aisle 3


The left side after I removed the schrader valve and its holder to see why it was no accepting oil.

Thanks for the responses.
Yes Marty I had hoped to have a nice long ride to day but thought some fresh fork oil would tighten up the front end which seems very soft lately. Also explains why I have been unable to add air pressure to the forks.
Phil

[bikerphil]

Phil, if you plan on removing the fork cap, loosen the upper triple tree pinch bolt first, it will come loose much easier. Don't forget to have the weight off of the front tire first and be prepared for the cap to fly off, it is spring loaded of course.

[MaximPhil]

Phil, if you plan on removing the fork cap, loosen the upper triple tree pinch bolt first, it will come loose much easier. Don't forget to have the weight off of the front tire first and be prepared for the cap to fly off, it is spring loaded of course.

Thanks bikerphil,
Just finishing my breakfast and winding up my enthusiasm
to take the top off. While glad it can be done without removing the forks I will have to take off the handlebars to get access.
Maxim Phil

[skids]

Don't forget to have the weight off of the front tire first ....

Thats right but by now you know that. When removing the caps, without blocking up the front of the bike, you can collapse the forks so much that it will fall off the side stand.

[MaximPhil]

Mission accomplished. Thanks to the advice posted on here as well as phone calls from Jetmechmarty and HamJam.
I was able to make the "special tool" Marty suggested from ABS pipe and jacking up the front end and place on axle stands to relieve the pressure. Handlebars came off and I was able to make enough room without disconnecting any cables or hoses.
Cap came off easily. Added the oil and after about 5 five attempts thread caught and the rest was just putting it back together.
It was a HOT day. Short ride to make sure everything is good. No noticeable improvement in the suspension which is a bit disappointing.
The reason the oil would not go in the air valve is because this cap only has a 1/8 hole.
Phil

[jetmechmarty]

Phil,
Maybe Santa Claus will bring you some new springs and maybe a pair of Gold Valve Emulators. In the meantime, I'm glad she's roadworthy! I look forward to seeing you at the Iron Horse on Friday. So, drive carefully and arrive safely!

[MaximPhil]

Phil,
Maybe Santa Claus will bring you some new springs and maybe a pair of Gold Valve Emulators. In the meantime, I'm glad she's roadworthy! I look forward to seeing you at the Iron Horse on Friday. So, drive carefully and arrive safely!

Thanks Marty, Your phone cal this morning was at the perfect time with the perfect solution. Worked like a charm as they say.
Yes I plan to have a safe fun journey to the IH and back. I'll be sure to let Santa know. Ho Ho Ho
Phil

[cajun31]

Phil

I know you are trying to do a rush job because of the SE rally. When you get back I would invest in new fork seals and I would pull the forks off the bike and do a complete and thorough cleaning. It would also allow you to inspect your springs. Might want to grab some new ones to have on hand when you do the complete cleaning. My front was soft and after I went through the process of the complete disassembly, cleaning, new fork seals and reassembly my front end is much more stable and solid. I did mine because the seals were still the originals. They weren't leaking but due to age I just did it as preventative maintenance. Good luck on your trip.

[hamjam]

:d:d:d:d:d:d:d

[motoman]

Mission accomplished. Thanks to the advice posted on here as well as phone calls from Jetmechmarty and HamJam.
I was able to make the "special tool" Marty suggested from ABS pipe and jacking up the front end and place on axle stands to relieve the pressure. Handlebars came off and I was able to make enough room without disconnecting any cables or hoses.
Cap came off easily. Added the oil and after about 5 five attempts thread caught and the rest was just putting it back together.
It was a HOT day. Short ride to make sure everything is good. No noticeable improvement in the suspension which is a bit disappointing.
The reason the oil would not go in the air valve is because this cap only has a 1/8 hole.
Phil

Apart, cleaned and going back with CORRECT amount of Silcolene 15w fork oil is the magic. If those forks still have original springs, they ARE progressive wound. Was the ONLY model/yr. that got them from the factory. Used to run 6-9psi in them regularly, but found no need for any air assist one-up loaded down on a LD ride.