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  • Mending broken fins

    While in the process of cleaning and painting an engine I broke the tip of a fin off. It happened back a few weeks and I didn't find the broken part until today.

    Here is my question. How do I mend it? I figure there are three ways (discussed many times on this forum) to fix the fin:

    1. JB Weld - This is a popular method mentioned throughout the biker world. It is a darker gray when cured and will not conduct the heat. You also need to have the fin.

    2. Two part putty - Comes in two bars and you cut off equal lengths. message them together into single uniform color mass. Hardens quickly and can be shaped. This is available from many manufacturers and is used to re-mold the fin if the broken off part is missing. Once again, no heat conduction.

    3. MiG/TiG welding - By far the best solution for heat conductivity and it can be filed/ground down. You have to find someone that can weld it and you must have the broken off part (of fabricate one)

    The fourth way, which is not a fix, is to file it down and make it look normal. I can also do the same thing on both sides. However, I'm OCD and it will eventually kill me. That said, I could blend it with the cylinders since it's the last fin. It will be different but no one (except another XS11 restorer) will notice.

    So here is my break.



    It's only a small part. Here is what the break looks like with the cylinders attached from below and above. As you can see, it is noticeable.




    So what I'm looking for is any good stories on which one works out best.

    Thanks
    _________________________________________
    1981 XS1100SH (Lola) - Bright Cardinal Red
    Whatever Lola wants, Lola gets.. Don't mess with Lola.
    Mostly stock with a few minor upgrades
    1981 XS11000SH being used for parts (Sold off)

    Also have:
    2009 Harley Davidson FLSTC with over 120K miles. All mine.

    Currently traveling the country with an aluminum can in tow and a motorcycle in the truck bed in search of the perfect road.

  • #2
    If I remember correctly

    Crazy Steve had a fix that worked good. Thats the good news. The bad news is that he isn't posting as often and it may take time for him to respond to a PM. I'll search but it was a while ago, diver ray or marty might know it right off.
    mack
    79 XS 1100 SF Special
    HERMES
    original owner
    http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps6932d5df.jpg

    81 XS 1100 LH MNS
    SPICA
    http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/ad305/mack-055/2.jpg

    78 XS 11E
    IOTA
    https://youtu.be/wB5Jfbp6SUc
    https://youtu.be/RaI3WYHSuWA



    Have recovery trailer and shop if you breakdown in my area.
    Frankford, Ont, Canada
    613-398-6186

    Comment


    • #3
      Thanks.

      I have time. I'm retired
      _________________________________________
      1981 XS1100SH (Lola) - Bright Cardinal Red
      Whatever Lola wants, Lola gets.. Don't mess with Lola.
      Mostly stock with a few minor upgrades
      1981 XS11000SH being used for parts (Sold off)

      Also have:
      2009 Harley Davidson FLSTC with over 120K miles. All mine.

      Currently traveling the country with an aluminum can in tow and a motorcycle in the truck bed in search of the perfect road.

      Comment


      • #4
        I have thought about this for my own stuff and I think the best remedy is to round it to look natural and do the same to the opposite side.

        No one will ever be the wiser and all it costs is elbow grease.

        JAT.
        Greg

        Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.”

        ― Albert Einstein

        80 SG Ol' Okie;79 engine & carbs w/pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, Custom Mac 4 into 2 exhaust, ACCT,XS850 final drive,110/90/19 front tire,TKat fork brace, XS750 140 MPH speedometer, Vetter IV fairing, aftermarket hard bags and trunk, LG high back seat, XJ rear shocks.

        The list changes.

        Comment


        • #5
          I if it was mine I would do what Greg said. If you really want it back on there have it TIG welded back
          80SG, 81SH, 80 standard parts bike, 81SH parts bike
          and new to me 78 standard dresser

          Comment


          • #6
            Hi Rich,
            Let me start with. I am not Normal nor do I want to be.
            On the race car we used a 50/50 rule for cosmetic issues. If it looked good from 50 feet @50MPH it was good to go
            I would round it to look natural perhaps follow the curve of a much lower fin.
            Also note the inside 25% is covered when you install the exhaust header.
            I would NOT deform other side to match.
            Phil
            1981 XS1100 H Venturer ( Addie)
            1983 XJ 650 Maxim
            2004 Kawasaki Concours. ( Black Bear)

            Comment


            • #7
              Fix it, don't round......
              XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.

              Comment


              • #8
                Hey Rich,

                I have a TIG welder, but it's only for STEEL, it's DC, so it can't work on Aluminum...I tried....all it does it heat the aluminum to a melting point too quickly below the surface, so it collapses like a sinkhole before I can see/tell what's happening!

                I can MIG weld aluminum somewhat...did it to make my gauge cluster box and mounting brackets. MY Mig welder is AC so it can break thru the Al.Oxide surface that forms on aluminum just exposed to air. However, not sure about being able to get down in there with the other fins possibly in the way. I'd be willing to TRY....but my time is a bit tight right now....preparing for a vacation trip to ALA to visit my 87 y/o mom, getting her packed up to move to FLA., and then to attend XS SouthEast the following weekend. You say you're not in too much of a hurry. I could visit you with my welding stuff after I get back from my trip to TRY/ATTEMPT to weld it if you would like.

                OR...I/we could ride up there to your place, get the head/broken fin from you, take it back to my place for easier access/working on it without having to lug my welder and large gas bottle and such up there?

                Otherwise, let's look at it this way. The fins are for COOLING. There's still SOME fin there where it broke off of. So...there will stil be some cooling affect from the residual fin. If you were to measure the surface area of the part broken off, and then the total surface area of ALL of the other fins, I would bet you would find that you will be loosing maybe 1% +/- of total cooling surface area....doubtful that it would have any functional/detrimental affect to the performance of the engine.

                SO...I personally would grind it down to match the fins pattern just below it and be done with it. But my OCD isn't as bad as some folks!

                T.C.
                T. C. Gresham
                81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
                79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
                History shows again and again,
                How nature points out the folly of men!

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by TopCatGr58 View Post
                  Hey Rich,

                  SO...I personally would grind it down to match the fins pattern just below it and be done with it. But my OCD isn't as bad as some folks!

                  T.C.
                  +1
                  Greg

                  Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.”

                  ― Albert Einstein

                  80 SG Ol' Okie;79 engine & carbs w/pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, Custom Mac 4 into 2 exhaust, ACCT,XS850 final drive,110/90/19 front tire,TKat fork brace, XS750 140 MPH speedometer, Vetter IV fairing, aftermarket hard bags and trunk, LG high back seat, XJ rear shocks.

                  The list changes.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Create a clay casting if the fin with broken piece in place. Use a melting pot to melt a small quantity of aluminum then pour into clay mold. File down when done. No welding required.


                    BTW I have never done this just read about it on the net somewhere.


                    John
                    John is in an anonymous city with an Alamo (N29.519227,W-98.678980)

                    Go ahead, click on the bikes - you know you want to...the electrons are ready.
                    '81 XS1100H - "Enterprise"
                    Bob Jones Custom Navy bike: Tkat brace, EBC floating rotors & SS lines, ROX pivot risers, Geezer rectifier, new 3H3 engine

                    "Not all treasure is silver and gold"

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      TC no worries. I'm actually leaving to visit my mother (same age) in TN just before XS Southeast as well. I'll see you in NC and we can talk about it then. I'm inclined to "try" JB weld then round it off it it looks bad or doesn't hold.

                      In any case, it's low on my priority list. I need to strip and repaint the case, valve cover and cylinders first. I also need to clean the head better and strip it.
                      _________________________________________
                      1981 XS1100SH (Lola) - Bright Cardinal Red
                      Whatever Lola wants, Lola gets.. Don't mess with Lola.
                      Mostly stock with a few minor upgrades
                      1981 XS11000SH being used for parts (Sold off)

                      Also have:
                      2009 Harley Davidson FLSTC with over 120K miles. All mine.

                      Currently traveling the country with an aluminum can in tow and a motorcycle in the truck bed in search of the perfect road.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by jwhughes3 View Post
                        Create a clay casting if the fin with broken piece in place. Use a melting pot to melt a small quantity of aluminum then pour into clay mold. File down when done. No welding required.
                        I've actually cast aluminum before. I don't have the furnace anymore but if I did I could make it work with a simple mold. Anyway, I would have to practice a lot before even trying.

                        Also, this isn't pure aluminum is it? It's an alloy so I would have to source the metal from another unused part. I bet the melting temp is higher than pure aluminum.
                        _________________________________________
                        1981 XS1100SH (Lola) - Bright Cardinal Red
                        Whatever Lola wants, Lola gets.. Don't mess with Lola.
                        Mostly stock with a few minor upgrades
                        1981 XS11000SH being used for parts (Sold off)

                        Also have:
                        2009 Harley Davidson FLSTC with over 120K miles. All mine.

                        Currently traveling the country with an aluminum can in tow and a motorcycle in the truck bed in search of the perfect road.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I tried the regular JB Weld and it got "rubbery" after heating up. That little tab that broke off will not make a big difference with heat dissipation.
                          Skids (Sid Hansen)

                          Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by skids View Post
                            I tried the regular JB Weld and it got "rubbery" after heating up. That little tab that broke off will not make a big difference with heat dissipation.
                            it won't make any difference at all. Just appearance....
                            XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Haven't tried it, but hear good things....

                              http://muggyweld.com/super-alloy-5
                              Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two

                              '78E original owner - resto project
                              '78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
                              '82 XJ rebuild project
                              '80SG restified, red SOLD
                              '79F parts...
                              '81H more parts...

                              Other current bikes:
                              '93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
                              '86 XL883/1200 Chopper
                              '82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
                              Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
                              Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...

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