How to remove oil drain plug on XS 1100 Special

[dolphans1]

Oil Capacity with or without oil filter

[IMG][/IMG]

Oil Capacity with or without oil filter

[natemoen]

What is your question?

If you change the filter you need more oil.

[natemoen]

Thanks....

I went online to see if I could find fluid capacity and I did not see anything , other than the maximum and minimum level on the viewer window. Recommend 10W- 30W or 20W-40W.

Speaking of that, I changed my oil, but even prior to the change, I noticed a slight oil seepage from what appears to be the front cam adjuster seal door, looks like its fastened down by 2 allen screws close to front side cylinder heads in between the exhaust pipes, can this seal (black) be replaced?

d-1

20-50 is the recommended weight. Some use different weights but that is the factory recommended weight.

For the cam chain tensioner you can pit some rtv on it to stop it or take it apart and fix and seal it. But if you are going to that point I would switcg to an auto tensioner.

[dolphans1]

What is your question?

What's the process in going to an auto tensioner,is this something one can do himself or does a shop have to perform this?

Thanks....

[natemoen]

What's the process in going to an auto tensioner,is this something one can do himself or does a shop have to perform this?

Thanks....

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35501

Here are all the compatable tensioners. Basically just follow the instructions in the manual for removing the tensioner and put the auto one back in, instead.

[dolphans1]

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35501

Here are all the compatable tensioners. Basically just follow the instructions in the manual for removing the tensioner and put the auto one back in, instead.

Geez, sounds like a lot of different scenarios to go with and some modifications to make with either the bolts or filing the holes.

Which is the best for the 1979 Yamaha XS 1100 Special?

I just may go with the RTV stuff at first.

Thanks.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Dolphans,

The tech tip is good, but even if you're just going to use RTV or make your own gasket, and you remove the CCT, there's still a bit of risk of the cam chain dropping down around the crankshaft sprocket due to excessive slack/wear in the chain...and this is what puts the valve/cam timing off, and that is what can then cause valves to get bent!

SO...in either case, I recommend as does the tech tip, to remove the valve cover, but then after getting the timing set on "C", as you SLOWLY loosen the CCT bolts and take up the slack as the by rotating the exhaust cam a little, as well as use a bungie to pull up the chain between the cams. I made a post a while back with photos, I'll find the link and add it to this post in a few minutes. But this extra technique will help to further assure that the cam chain doesn't drop down around the crank.

T.C.

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showpost.p...8&postcount=34

[dolphans1]

Hey Dolphans,

The tech tip is good, but even if you're just going to use RTV or make your own gasket, and you remove the CCT, there's still a bit of risk of the cam chain dropping down around the crankshaft sprocket due to excessive slack/wear in the chain...and this is what puts the valve/cam timing off, and that is what can then cause valves to get bent!

SO...in either case, I recommend as does the tech tip, to remove the valve cover, but then after getting the timing set on "C", as you SLOWLY loosen the CCT bolts and take up the slack as the by rotating the exhaust cam a little, as well as use a bungie to pull up the chain between the cams. I made a post a while back with photos, I'll find the link and add it to this post in a few minutes. But this extra technique will help to further assure that the cam chain doesn't drop down around the crank.

T.C.

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showpost.p...8&postcount=34

Great point, it rides great now, I may hold a bit on this.

[BA80]

Hey Dolphans,

The tech tip is good, but even if you're just going to use RTV or make your own gasket, and you remove the CCT, there's still a bit of risk of the cam chain dropping down around the crankshaft sprocket due to excessive slack/wear in the chain...and this is what puts the valve/cam timing off, and that is what can then cause valves to get bent!

SO...in either case, I recommend as does the tech tip, to remove the valve cover, but then after getting the timing set on "C", as you SLOWLY loosen the CCT bolts and take up the slack as the by rotating the exhaust cam a little, as well as use a bungie to pull up the chain between the cams. I made a post a while back with photos, I'll find the link and add it to this post in a few minutes. But this extra technique will help to further assure that the cam chain doesn't drop down around the crank.

T.C.

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showpost.p...8&postcount=34

Anything is possible but fortunately not very likely. It must be done with the bike on the center stand. When the "C" mark is lined up on the timing wheel there is tension on the rear of the chain to hold it in place. As long as the crankshaft isn't turned your OK.

I have done MANY of them this way and never had a problem.

[TopCatGr58]

No argument there Greg,

Just that this is an unknown variable with his bike, never having had the CCT off, so never having seen how much the plunger is already pushed in, so no telling how WORN and stretched the chain is....and I think I had read of someone who just removed the CCT and reset it's plunger, reinstalled and then reset the tension, locked in place and THEN rotated the crank and found it a tooth OFF time....and so have to assume it occured when the CCT was removed WITHOUT moving the crank. I think this is what happened to Tod/Trbig and Bonz's bike IIRC?

So...since it's recommended to remove the valve cover anyways so that the timing dots can be inspected, then it's not much more work to take up the slack on the exhaust cam/sprocket as another prophylactic measure to prevent chain from dropping and skipping a crank sprocket tooth!

T.C.