How to remove oil drain plug on XS 1100 Special

[dolphans1]

Another stupid simple question I can't figure out.

It's the oil drain plug, I assume its on the left front of engine on the bottom side, close to the oil filter? (Kinda 45's toward front tire)

The only socket I can get on it is a 3/4" inch socket, 18MM is too small, and its so tight, I can't budge it off, which begs the question, it has to be counter clockwise, right?

I'm using a short ratchet and extension and it won't budge. I'm afraid I'll strip it or break it.

Does anyone know the right socket in millimeters to remove this bolt?

I'm going to have to invest in buying a larger ratchet and socket.

Thanks for your help.

d-1

[tcoop]

3/4 in is the same as 19mm.

Yes turn it counter clockwise to loosen it.

[bikerphil]

19MM is the correct size, use a breaker bar or pipe on the ratchet for more leverage. It will break free easier if the engine is hot. I woundn't worry about stripping the threads and yes it is counter clockwise to loosen.

[motoman]

19MM is the correct size, use a breaker bar or pipe on the ratchet for more leverage. It will break free easier if the engine is hot. I woundn't worry about stripping the threads and yes it is counter clockwise to loosen.

19mm socket, counterclocwise with a rachet or breakover bar and pop rachet or whatever right smartly with a hammer to pop it loose. You'll struggle just pullin' on it.

[jwhughes3]

You changing the oil? WHacha gonna use? Dino or Synthetic?

Its possible someone put some threadlock on it and made it tough to crack loose. Maybe touch a torch flame to it a few seconds to break it free.


Just stirring the pot on a slow day!



John

[dolphans1]

Thanks for the timely responses, I really appreciate it.

I purchased a long 1/2" torque wrench for $11.99 and a whole rack of heavy duty 1/2" sockets 11MM - 24MM - larger sizes ($19.99) , cheaper than buying just 1 19MM socket, also bought a 6" 1/2" extension ($7.99) and the drain plug came off like butter.

Yes I went overkill.

Nice using good tools.

Drained exactly 4 quarts of oil including the oil filter.

Need to buy a rubber "O" ring for the main bolt that holds the filter in the center.

I think I read somewhere that they make screw on filters (like the do for cars, for the bike, is that true and does anyone recommend the switch/change?

Thanks Again.....

d-1

[MPittma100]

Drain Plug

Thanks for the timely responses, I really appreciate it.

I purchased a long 1/2" torque wrench for $11.99 and a whole rack of heavy duty 1/2" sockets 11MM - 24MM - larger sizes ($19.99) , cheaper than buying just 1 19MM socket, also bought a 6" 1/2" extension ($7.99) and the drain plug came off like butter.

Yes I went overkill.

Nice using good tools.

Drained exactly 4 quarts of oil including the oil filter.

Need to buy a rubber "O" ring for the main bolt that holds the filter in the center.

I think I read somewhere that they make screw on filters (like the do for cars, for the bike, is that true and does anyone recommend the switch/change?

Thanks Again.....

d-1

Nothing like the right tool for the job.

Oil filter o-rings normally come in the box with the filter - one for the filter housing and one for the oil filter housing bolt.

Use the search tab here on the forum for posts concerning the spin-on oil filter adapter. If you have a four into one exhaust system, you may not have clearance for the spin-on application.

Mike

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Dolphans,

The Oil filter O-ring is supposed to come with your OIL FILTER, along with the larger filter cup O-ring. To use a spin on oil filter, you will need to put on an adapter plate. I have made them for the past several years, haven't made any this year, developed a bad case of "tennis" elbow=tendonitis in my right forearm that has taken months to heal!! And so it would have been painful and injurious for me to sit at my little home style lathe/mill and rotary table and turn the hundreds of cranks required to machine/mill them into shape. My elbow is almost healed, and my homelife may be calming down soon, so I hope to get out there and "crank" out a few of them in the near future, have a member or 2 already interested in getting one as soon as I can produce them. You can see it in the For Sale Forum, Parts section, Parts/Services by members sticky thread.

Okay, getting 4 quarts out is a bit much, not supposed to be much more than 3 quarts! So...either the PO put in too much, used the bike on the side stand to use the window gauge instead of centerstand, or you may have had some FUEL LEAKAGE that got up into the intakes, and into a cylinder and down the piston into the oil! This last scenario is not so good because the fuel will thin the oil too much allowing damage to the bearings and crank/cam assemblies if run with it.

T.C.

[BA80]

Some come with, some not.

Hiflo only has the big one, Fram comes with both. I have gotten some that don't have either. Look in the box before you buy.

[MaximPhil]

You can reuse the old one a couple of times with no problem....unless it is shows signs of damage. Make sure the big O ring is in the groove...and stays there as you tighten the filter bolt. I prefer to give the housing a couple of turns to get the bolt started and then press it home by hand while tightening the bolt. A six point socket saves rounding the head.
Phil

[dolphans1]

You changing the oil? WHacha gonna use? Dino or Synthetic?

Its possible someone put some threadlock on it and made it tough to crack loose. Maybe touch a torch flame to it a few seconds to break it free.


Just stirring the pot on a slow day!



John

I'm probably gonna go Dino, some people swear on synthetic others say engine was not designed for it, has anyone gone synthetic and had any issues?

d-1

[jetmechmarty]

I'm probably gonna go Dino, some people swear on synthetic others say engine was not designed for it, has anyone gone synthetic and had any issues?

d-1

I usually use dino and change it often. I have used plenty of motorcycle specific synthetic engine oil in my XS11 and it worked just fine. The expense causes me to extend drain times and I believe that diminishes any benefit.

[dolphans1]

Hey Dolphans,

The Oil filter O-ring is supposed to come with your OIL FILTER, along with the larger filter cup O-ring. To use a spin on oil filter, you will need to put on an adapter plate. I have made them for the past several years, haven't made any this year, developed a bad case of "tennis" elbow=tendonitis in my right forearm that has taken months to heal!! And so it would have been painful and injurious for me to sit at my little home style lathe/mill and rotary table and turn the hundreds of cranks required to machine/mill them into shape. My elbow is almost healed, and my homelife may be calming down soon, so I hope to get out there and "crank" out a few of them in the near future, have a member or 2 already interested in getting one as soon as I can produce them. You can see it in the For Sale Forum, Parts section, Parts/Services by members sticky thread.

Okay, getting 4 quarts out is a bit much, not supposed to be much more than 3 quarts! So...either the PO put in too much, used the bike on the side stand to use the window gauge instead of centerstand, or you may have had some FUEL LEAKAGE that got up into the intakes, and into a cylinder and down the piston into the oil! This last scenario is not so good because the fuel will thin the oil too much allowing damage to the bearings and crank/cam assemblies if run with it.

T.C.

Yeah, I've been dropping the ball all day, I never opened up the box and checked, you were right.

[IMG][/IMG]

[BA80]

Dino 20w50. Change oil and filter every 3000 miles or 3 months just like your car.

Cheaper than a auto oil change actually.

[dolphans1]

Hey Dolphans,

The Oil filter O-ring is supposed to come with your OIL FILTER, along with the larger filter cup O-ring. To use a spin on oil filter, you will need to put on an adapter plate. I have made them for the past several years, haven't made any this year, developed a bad case of "tennis" elbow=tendonitis in my right forearm that has taken months to heal!! And so it would have been painful and injurious for me to sit at my little home style lathe/mill and rotary table and turn the hundreds of cranks required to machine/mill them into shape. My elbow is almost healed, and my homelife may be calming down soon, so I hope to get out there and "crank" out a few of them in the near future, have a member or 2 already interested in getting one as soon as I can produce them. You can see it in the For Sale Forum, Parts section, Parts/Services by members sticky thread.

Okay, getting 4 quarts out is a bit much, not supposed to be much more than 3 quarts! So...either the PO put in too much, used the bike on the side stand to use the window gauge instead of centerstand, or you may have had some FUEL LEAKAGE that got up into the intakes, and into a cylinder and down the piston into the oil! This last scenario is not so good because the fuel will thin the oil too much allowing damage to the bearings and crank/cam assemblies if run with it.

T.C.

You are right, I changed the oil last time and added 4 quarts ,but drained the oil last time through the oil filter, because I never saw the drain plug.

3000 Cubic Centimeters = 3.17006463 US Fluid Quarts, I tried viewing the glass finder and thought it was in the middle.