Idaho to New York or Bust

[Bonz]

How much time do you have? Do all of it if you can, then the bike is super solid before you even head out.

-It's a quick job to drain/fill the middle and final drives, by all means do that. Gives you peace of mind and let's you see the fluid that comes out. Then change fluid again when you get home and then you are on track for regular MD/FD maintenance.

-not so quick to grease driveshaft splines. I swear I remember someone (CZ?) analyzing the driveshaft spline situation on the 1100 and saying indeed the zerk does get grease where needed and will work its way to where it needs to go?

-If the brakes work and have pad material, I would flush them from the MC (front brakes for sure) and ride it. Again, a pretty quick operation.

-slow signal blinks are fairly common, don't fret it IMO.

-my plug wires are original, 21,xxx miles on them (80SG) and plugs don't go bad unless they are worn out. Check and gap, replace if needed.

-check valves and sync if you have the time, it would be part of what you will do anyway. If the carbs are working, throw some Berryman's or Seafoam or Techron in the tank each time you fill up to help them out.

Most of all, enjoy the ride!

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Billy,

YES, do the fuseblock upgrade, along with cleaning the electrical grounds, and will probably help solve the slow blinker...but that's a common occurence due to the age of these bikes, and the corrosion that develops in the harness connectors. But would also suggest checking the grounds for the turn signals as well if you're concerned about it.

The middle and final drives have 80-90 wt oils, and with only 17K miles and spread out over many years, they are probably still in good condition. OLD oil is still better than NO oil...which has happened to folks who drained and forgot to refill the middle drive...which lead to lockup failures! You will probably find a small fine layer of metal "DUST"/grunge on the magnetic tip of the drain plugs. Drain them and refill with full synthetic and you should be good to go. Always a possiblity of finding a little water in the drives due to just atmospheric condensation....and if the bike was not started and run up to normal operating temps, but just garage fired, the condensation does not get burned off!

Checking the plug wires is good, but also take OFF the plug caps and check them separately, and then the coils/wires WITHOUT the caps, the manual specs of 15 Kohms is WITHOUT the caps! The caps have built in resistors and their contacts can corrode/fail...should be ~5 k ohms, if much more, you can either take apart, clean, retest, if still too high, replace the caps. Also check for corrosion where the wires connect to caps, if GREEN, clip off 1/4" from wire, clean screw in cap before reassembly.

The other maintenance items are good. Remember that the Special has those wonky slanted pads, they can look worn on one end but still be just fine. Yep, bleed the brakes thoroughly till clear fluid! Yes, clean/regrease the final driveshaft splines.

T.C.

[3Phase]

Thanks for the replies so far, the advice is appreciated.

The bike has been garaged as long as Mark has owned it and has 17,500 miles on it. He is in his early 50's and has gotten into riding dirt bikes and 4 wheelers so he hasn't ridden the LG much the last 2 years. He's never been a member here but does most of his own mechanical work and has tried to maintain the bike.

Excellent! </Mr. Burns>

Mark has a shop and tools to do a little work before I head back, what do you think about this list?

Does he have a shop manual for the bike? That'd be great!

For your list:

1. Upgrade to TC's fuse block and fuses if you have time.
2. Yes, drain the oil from drives, hoping to find some oil but no water or metal.
3. New plugs would be nice for the trip. The wires are steel core but the plug caps/boots should be 5K Ohms each. Remove the caps and check the Primary and Secondary resistance of the Ignition Coils: 1.5 Ohms Primary, 15K Secondary. Clip about 1/4" off the end of the wires before you screw the caps back on so you'll have them in clean metal.
4. Definitely change brake fluid. The front pads can be tricky to check but there should be a pad wear indicator on the rear of each front brake caliper. To check the rear pads you have to remove the small plastic cap in the caliper and look down inside at the pads and rotor.
5. Yes, clean the grounds and connections if you have time.
6. Check the valve clearances and synch carbs if you have time. The valve clearance decreases as the valves and seats wear so the top end gets quiet when the valves need adjusting instead of clattering.
7. Yes, check pick up coil wires. Check the vacuum advance too and make sure it turns freely or you'll use a more gas when you ride across the country.
8. Grease drive shaft only if you have to change the rear tire. If the tire's good, leave the splines alone until you get home.

Remember, this is supposed to be fun so as Bonz said, "Most of all, enjoy the ride!"

.

[WMarshy]

Excellent! </Mr. Burns>



Does he have a shop manual for the bike? That'd be great!

For your list:

1. Upgrade to TC's fuse block and fuses if you have time.
2. Yes, drain the oil from drives, hoping to find some oil but no water or metal.
3. New plugs would be nice for the trip. The wires are steel core but the plug caps/boots should be 5K Ohms each. Remove the caps and check the Primary and Secondary resistance of the Ignition Coils: 1.5 Ohms Primary, 15K Secondary. Clip about 1/4" off the end of the wires before you screw the caps back on so you'll have them in clean metal.
4. Definitely change brake fluid. The front pads can be tricky to check but there should be a pad wear indicator on the rear of each front brake caliper. To check the rear pads you have to remove the small plastic cap in the caliper and look down inside at the pads and rotor.
5. Yes, clean the grounds and connections if you have time.
6. Check the valve clearances and synch carbs if you have time. The valve clearance decreases as the valves and seats wear so the top end gets quiet when the valves need adjusting instead of clattering.
7. Yes, check pick up coil wires. Check the vacuum advance too and make sure it turns freely or you'll use a more gas when you ride across the country.
8. Grease drive shaft only if you have to change the rear tire. If the tire's good, leave the splines alone until you get home.

Remember, this is supposed to be fun so as Bonz said, "Most of all, enjoy the ride!"

.

Regarding the above advice:

4. Changing the fluid alone wont help you very much if the caliper pistons are full of varnish and corrosion under the dust seal and in the o-ring. You can change the fluid but still have a caliper hang up a few miles down the road because its not retracting. It will only add an hour of time for you to pop out the caliper piston and clean up the o-ring grove and piston. Pop it back in and good as new. I would take it for a test ride and see if they are sticking first and maybe take a quick look under the dust boots on the caliper piston before decinding if you should dive into the work. This thread will help you with the brakes and what to look for, although I was working on a standard the calipers are essentially the same for specials just mounted differently to the bike. http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...=caliper+clean

6. If for lack of time you cannot do this work I would suggest you adjust the timing chain tensioner at a min. If possible, take a vmax tensioner with you and install it before you take off on your drive. Make sure you follow the manual on the adjustment and ask questions here if you have any as you can cause serious damage if you do it improperly.

[D0wn5h1ft]

Some of this seems to be a little bit over the top for "just getting it road worthy". A lot of what is being described here is a FULL service job and might result in you not being able to ride the bike back due to lack of parts.

As soon as you start cracking this thing apart and doing all of this work you're undoubtedly going to run into broken parts. Don't get me wrong, all of this work needs to be done but everytime you start taking one of these dinosaurs apart things start breaking. Stripped bolts, ripped gaskets, rusted this, stuck that...you see where I'm going.

Honestly, if it were me, I would leave that engine alone. If it runs and you don't hear that cam chain slapping around in there, I wouldn't mess with the tensioner. Valve clearances, if the owner never remembers them being done, are easy enough to do because nothing really has to come apart if you're just checking them. If they are within spec (or really even just close but don't let TC hear me say that ) I wouldn't touch them because the risk of something going wrong during assembly/disassembly isn't worth it IMO. You could drop a sprocket bolt down the CC cavity, drop the CC, etc and it would ground you for at least a week until you could get a new part in. I say these things because I've done them all!

Realistically, these guys are just trying to keep you safe and give you suggestions for how to get the best running possible bike for that long haul. You have to ask yourself where does the risk outweigh the reward, at least for it's "maiden journey".

[WMarshy]

Some of this seems to be a little bit over the top for "just getting it road worthy". A lot of what is being described here is a FULL service job and might result in you not being able to ride the bike back due to lack of parts.

As soon as you start cracking this thing apart and doing all of this work you're undoubtedly going to run into broken parts. Don't get me wrong, all of this work needs to be done but everytime you start taking one of these dinosaurs apart things start breaking. Stripped bolts, ripped gaskets, rusted this, stuck that...you see where I'm going.

Honestly, if it were me, I would leave that engine alone. If it runs and you don't hear that cam chain slapping around in there, I wouldn't mess with the tensioner. Valve clearances, if the owner never remembers them being done, are easy enough to do because nothing really has to come apart if you're just checking them. If they are within spec (or really even just close but don't let TC hear me say that ) I wouldn't touch them because the risk of something going wrong during assembly/disassembly isn't worth it IMO. You could drop a sprocket bolt down the CC cavity, drop the CC, etc and it would ground you for at least a week until you could get a new part in. I say these things because I've done them all!

Realistically, these guys are just trying to keep you safe and give you suggestions for how to get the best running possible bike for that long haul. You have to ask yourself where does the risk outweigh the reward, at least for it's "maiden journey".

I partially agree with you. Brake work in my mind is almos manditory and could all be done in one evening in the parking lot of his motel. IMO I'd skip valve adjustment completely because the gasket might get destroyed removing the cover and it will take a 3-4 hours for someone that has never done it. That being said, I think it it low risk work (i.e. Chance of dropping bolts in the motor is low) if you use the motion pro shim tool. Suggesting he adjust the tensioner is also low risk granted he doesn't strip the set screw, that's why I recommend just replacing it with a vmax tensioner right of the bat, takes 30 mins or less and only need simple tools and gasket maker.

[D0wn5h1ft]

I partially agree with you. Brake work in my mind is almos manditory and could all be done in one evening in the parking lot of his motel. IMO I'd skip valve adjustment completely because the gasket might get destroyed removing the cover and it will take a 3-4 hours for someone that has never done it. That being said, I think it it low risk work (i.e. Chance of dropping bolts in the motor is low) if you use the motion pro shim tool. Suggesting he adjust the tensioner is also low risk granted he doesn't strip the set screw, that's why I recommend just replacing it with a vmax tensioner right of the bat, takes 30 mins or less and only need simple tools and gasket maker.

After reading your response I think I'll have to revise my original statement. I had completely forgot about the shim tool because of the nightmare I went through changing out my shims (slipped a tooth, bent my valves ). I was thinking about the bolt dropping thing in terms of removing the cams. Hard to drop a bolt if the cams never come off! Even without the shim tool, I eventually just did the cam loosening tip once I got the new head on and it actually worked very well.

Brakes are pretty easy to do, like you said, given the internals aren't crumbling. I know I've had a terrible time getting the pistons back in a set of calipers but if you have access to a vice it'll make things go a lot smoother rather than having to hammer them back in with a mallet possibly doing damage.

Word of advice, if you're going to do a caliper disassembly and you have the cash just buy the caliper rebuild kits and replace all of the internals rather than waiting to see what MUST be replaced. Saves time at least having all the parts you could potentially need right there.

[WMarshy]

...
Brakes are pretty easy to do, like you said, given the internals aren't crumbling. I know I've had a terrible time getting the pistons back in a set of calipers but if you have access to a vice it'll make things go a lot smoother rather than having to hammer them back in with a mallet possibly doing damage.

Word of advice, if you're going to do a caliper disassembly and you have the cash just buy the caliper rebuild kits and replace all of the internals rather than waiting to see what MUST be replaced. Saves time at least having all the parts you could potentially need right there.

'A little lube goes a long way young man'. Mine slid right in by hand and no hammering necessary when I used the Permatex lube for brakes. Also, most of the time no replacement kits are needed just a good cleaning. You might get a little bit of pitting on the piston from corrosion but as long as there are not sharp burrs and oring is wide enough to cover any little pits that might create a leak path. There usually has to be some serious neglect for the caliper pistons to get that bad. I cant see any pics of the bike but if its in ridable condition my bet is they will need a quick cleaning or be fine all together.

[cajun31]

what they said

Makes perfect sense, especially if the bike has been a runner. I would take the time to replace the fluid and rebuild the brake system. Be me I would invest in the rebuild kits for both master cylinders as well as the caliper pistons and brake pads. Worst case the caliper pistons are good and you can return those. I went ahead and replaced mine with SS so I don't have to worry about pitting from now on.

I just redid mine and what a difference. There was some debate on this http://www.ebay.com/sch/vas_001/m.ht...84.m1439.l2654 which I did use on all the internals on mine including caliper pistons o rings and master cylinders. I used another lubricant on the slide pins. It is a bit messy but makes reassembly smooth as Marshy stated without the need for hammers or a vice.

With that small tank and the added weight of the all the luggage the last thing you need are brakes that are rubbing and dragging killing MPG. Best case scenario is you will have to carry a bit of gas with you. There are some long stretches of road between gas stations out west. Been there done that. Of course that has been quite a long time ago now and maybe there is more development now. I just remember long stretches of sagebrush and sand with no civilization in site for well over hundred mile stretches. As advised earlier plan your route accordingly to make sure there are towns along the way that match the capacity of your tank. I have owned this bike for a long time and I know that once out on the highway your mpg will not be much better then 32-35 mpg even when tuned properly. The bike was designed and introduces as a run about town model and the speed limit was 55 not 80 plus. When you crank down on the throttle and cruise at 75 or 80 your mpg suffers so keep that in mind.

[BillyRok]

Yeah, installing an auto cam chain tensioner makes sense, was thinking about that but forgot to put it on my list. Picked one up on Ebay tonight. I'll pm TC for a fuse block also.

Anybody know the caliper rebuild kit #s front and rear for the LG? Do both front and rear have dust cover boots?

I'm not at all familiar with the vacuum advance on the LG, have to search some threads on it.

If my motion pro tool for removing shims worked then checking them would be easy, but I couldn't get it to work last week. There's not a lot of play in terms of adjusting how it sits when you tighten it down, and no matter what I did the bucket would slide up past the bottom tip of the tool so I ended up unbolting the cams again. If somebody wants to loan me one that they know works that would be great. I'd even send you mine to see if you can get it to work. Of course then there is the question of shim availability near Post Falls, ID. Then I'd have to clean off the old destroyed valve cover gasket and run a bead of Yamabond around it.

Thanks for the continuing dialog fellas.

[WMarshy]

Yeah, installing an auto cam chain tensioner makes sense, was thinking about that but forgot to put it on my list. Picked one up on Ebay tonight. I'll pm TC for a fuse block also.

Anybody know the caliper rebuild kit #s front and rear for the LG? Do both front and rear have dust cover boots?

I'm not at all familiar with the vacuum advance on the LG, have to search some threads on it.

If my motion pro tool for removing shims worked then checking them would be easy, but I couldn't get it to work last week. There's not a lot of play in terms of adjusting how it sits when you tighten it down, and no matter what I did the bucket would slide up past the bottom tip of the tool so I ended up unbolting the cams again. If somebody wants to loan me one that they know works that would be great. I'd even send you mine to see if you can get it to work. Of course then there is the question of shim availability near Post Falls, ID. Then I'd have to clean off the old destroyed valve cover gasket and run a bead of Yamabond around it.

Thanks for the continuing dialog fellas.

Yeah, you got the right idea. Your motion pro tool probably needs some light filing like mine did, some on the bolt holes and some on the tang where it would hit the cam lobe. That gave me plenty of adjustment to get at all my buckets.
Good luck with your trip. When you get back to Rochester and want to ride let me know. It's been a while butchered another member from Rochester I've hooked up with and ride around the state on a day trip before...

[Jerry]

A couple of things to prepare the rider for a long trip:

Stock seat is not the most comfortable for a long trip. Many riders pick up a pad from Walmart or other seat aids from motorcycle stores...bead seat pads have many proponents as well.

Carry / drink lots of fluids. Make sure you put some water or sports drink in that trunk and stay hydrated. Get some summer weight gloves.

Use sun screen on your face if you do not wear a full-face helmet. "Do rags" can help reduce helmet itch when your scalp starts to sweat. Have a baseball cap handy to put on when you take your helmet off.

I carry some hard candy with me, helps to pop one in when I start to feel fatigue. Carry a spare set of keys. Carry registation for the bike, or sales receipt, and proof of insurance. I carry a little point-and-shoot digital camera in the pocket of my riding jacket, helps get quick shots of anything of interest. I also carry a tripod so I can get into some of the pictures.

Plan to do a little walking around or excercise at fuel and rest stops. Helps keep kneees from locking up and stretches the legs. You can average 65 with stops as the speed limit in most states is 75mph and I normally travel at 5 above that. 400- 500 miles a day is routine, any more than 500 is doable but the enjoymnet content stops dropping off rapidly. Try to stay under 700 miles if at all possible. With the stops you have planned you will probably be in the lower range anyway.

Carry aspirin. You may need it. On any trip I carry rain gear, just an inexpensive yellow suit from Walmart plus some boot covers from Tourmaster. I also carry a set of rubber gloves but don't use them much as my hands sweat inside of them. However, in a real heavy rain they are invaluable.

I carry plastic polish to clean my windshield and visor, plus a roll of shop towels. (There are bugs, even in the west. I carry a small AA flashlight which comes in handy on occasion.

Anyway, rider comfort is a big issue on long rides so take into consideration a few creature comforts to make the ride safer and more pleasant.

[TopCatGr58]

More health safety info.

Riding in one position for a long time, with legs LOWER than heart can cause blood clots to form, which can then dislodge and make their way to your heart/lungs and KILL YOU! So....don't just bring along the Aspirin, but actually take them, they help reduce the effectiveness of your clotting factor so your blood is less likely to clot when stagnant, sitting or flowing slowly in your veins! And keeping hydrated will also help keep your blood from getting too thick which also helps keep the blood clots formation tendency down! The blood that flows/comes back up from your legs has to move under skin/muscle contraction only, not from any pressure from your heart. There are valves in the large veins to keep the blood that gets squished/pushed upwards from falling back down into your feet! Moving your legs is what helps both your muscles and skin to squeeze the blood UP thru the veins back to your heart. SO...having cruising pegs and periodically moving your legs from the oem pegs forward and back will help keep the blood flowing and prevent clots from forming.

I didn't review the photo of the bike, but if you don't have a backrest that can fit right up behind your back, then put a bag/duffle or something that will provide you some lower/back support....helps take the stress off of your arms by not having to HANG ON to the bars to remain sitting upright.

I also got a sheepskin as a pad for the few years that I did some LDR's before I started trailering. Don't forget the Monkey Butt powder!!

T.C.

[BillyRok]

A post that begins with "KILL YOU" and ends with "Monkey Butt powder" ----
what the heck??
You do bring up a good question though. The bike does have crash bars but no highway pegs. Any ideas where I could find bolt on pegs that would attach to the crash bars? Highway pegs would be nice!

[ViperRon]

Well as far as things to check on the bike and safety things to ride I think the group has you covered but I do have advice. Go to some place like Walmart and buy a couple of the generic credit cards to use when traveling and leave your main ones at home. Load money on them and use them that way you somewhat avoid your resources being drained on the trip if someone or a machine whacks you. Take some actual cash in case there is a short term network issue and cards do not work.

I say multiple cards because you can always find a scanner that will not read a card. Your cards may be insured but out on the road it can take many days to resolve card theft mean time you can be very hungry etc etc.

Hope all helps and remember the things you prepare for never get you.
Have a good trip.