Has anyone changed valve stem seals and springs without taking the head off ? I've read about guys doing it on small block chevys using either compressed air or soft rope inserted in the plug hole and the piston carefully raised to support the valve. Not sure how you would compress the spring tho, some sort of lever arrangement maybe ?
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Believe me, no matter if you figure it all out, it will be a lot easier to pull the head and then you can be assured it is done right. Save you a bunch of busted knuckles too!Mike Giroir
79 XS-1100 Special
Once you un-can a can of worms, the only way to re-can them is with a bigger can.
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And I was going to add that IF there is that much WEAR to the point the seals are leaking, then you've probably got lots of junk/corrosion or such on the valve shafts....as well as posssibly burned oil in the valve face/seat junction. So...will be a good time to also LAP the valves/seats while you've got it apart to help freshen up the top end sealing properties. Perhaps even decarbonize the top of the pistons and the combustion chamber as well.
T.C.T. C. Gresham
81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
History shows again and again,
How nature points out the folly of men!
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Springs
Buy some new springs and seals. Take them, the head, and the camshafts to a reputable machine shop.
The shop can clean (media blast) the head and valves. They will reface the seats and valves. They will also adjust all lashes so you won't have to. You may or may not end up needing some new valves.
It is worth it to have this done.
My 2 cents.
Mike1981 XS1100H Venturer
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Mike
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I have done it on a small block Chevy, very easy, but yes, you compress the spring with a lever. The fulcrum point is the rocker arm stud. As there isn't one on an XS, that's not going to fly. If I thought about it long enough, I could probably come up with a way to do it on the XS, but there doesn't seem to be a real point to doing it that way. May as well pull the head and do the seats, seals, and valve clearances all at the same time without worry of dropping a valve into the cylinder or buggering something else up. Take the time to do the job right, you will thank yourself later. Have a nice day and ride safeI am the Lorax, I speak for the Trees
'80 XS1100 SG (It's Evil, Wicked, Mean & Nasty)
'79 XS1100 F R (IL Barrachino)
'00 Suzuki Intruder 1400 (La Soccola)
'77 KZ400s (La Putana)
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Originally posted by MPittma100 View PostBuy some new springs and seals. Take them, the head, and the camshafts to a reputable machine shop.
The shop can clean (media blast) the head and valves. They will reface the seats and valves. They will also adjust all lashes so you won't have to. You may or may not end up needing some new valves.
It is worth it to have this done.
My 2 cents.
Mike
What Mike said. Machine shops are there for a good reason.
JohnJohn is in an anonymous city with an Alamo (N29.519227,W-98.678980)
Go ahead, click on the bikes - you know you want to...the electrons are ready.
'81 XS1100H - "Enterprise"
Bob Jones Custom Navy bike: Tkat brace, EBC floating rotors & SS lines, ROX pivot risers, Geezer rectifier, new 3H3 engine
"Not all treasure is silver and gold"
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Originally posted by MPittma100 View PostBuy some new springs and seals. Take them, the head, and the camshafts to a reputable machine shop.
The shop can clean (media blast) the head and valves. They will reface the seats and valves. They will also adjust all lashes so you won't have to. You may or may not end up needing some new valves.
It is worth it to have this done.
My 2 cents.
MikeGreg
Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.”
― Albert Einstein
80 SG Ol' Okie;79 engine & carbs w/pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, Custom Mac 4 into 2 exhaust, ACCT,XS850 final drive,110/90/19 front tire,TKat fork brace, XS750 140 MPH speedometer, Vetter IV fairing, aftermarket hard bags and trunk, LG high back seat, XJ rear shocks.
The list changes.
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