Well, after rebuilding the transmission on my 82' XJ1100, I decided to address the brakes too. I rebuilt the calipers with new seals, and got new pads. The front right brake bled nicely, and is working good. The front left is another story. Plenty of fluid leaves the rear resevoir, but none will go back.. I found this out when I was pressing the piston back into the caliper. It built up pressure inside the caliper, instead of pushing the air/fluid back through the brake lines. I was thinking about the "spooge hole" cleaning, but would goop put up with that amount of pressure? I would think all that pressure would blast the clot out, if there was one. Is there something else I should be looking for? The rear master seems to be impossible to remove on the old Maxim. Do I need to remove the brake lines first?
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I recommend a full m/c strip and clean. Had to remove the inner plastic fender if I recall. Could be a collapsed hose , that can work as a one way valve but still would do the m/c.
BTW . I have the same fairing and was wondering how well your headlamp works. Mine sucks even with a new bulb.79SF
XJ11
78E
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I was thinking the hose was collapsed too. Found a stainless kit on Ebay. Doesn't look like I can really find a new oem hose anymore.
Heh, the front headlight is pretty useless. I think the wiring going into the fairing is pretty small, and can't carry enough current. Also, it's a sealed beam. I was thinking about replacing it with one of these soon.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/4x6-Sealed-B...71b7f5&vxp=mtr
I was going to add a relay also, and power the headlight directly from the battery, with a lower gauge cable.
I have foglights set up on my highway bars, so I have pretty good light. Without them, I can barely see at night.82' Maxim 1100 "The Green Goblin"
-Yamaha fairing and luggage rack
-Foglights and highway pegs
95' Kawasaki GPZ 1100
-OEM Hardbags
-Dynojet stage 1 kit
-Micron SS full exhaust
-Corbin seat
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Take the hose loose at m/c and see if you can compress the front piston in. That will eliminate a hose problem to an extent. Still strongly suggest r/r m/c.
Agree the wiring is puny but think just a bad design putting the headlamp in a tunnel. Mine is not a sealed beam.Last edited by SFerinTEXAS; 06-18-2014, 09:13 PM.79SF
XJ11
78E
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I pulled the MC, and it looks like it was freshly rebuilt. I pushed the caliper piston in, and it went right in. So, the lines are clear, and the MC is clean. wth! I guess I'll get a MC rebuild kit anyway, while I have it apart already. Could the proportioning valve block fluid from coming back to the MC?82' Maxim 1100 "The Green Goblin"
-Yamaha fairing and luggage rack
-Foglights and highway pegs
95' Kawasaki GPZ 1100
-OEM Hardbags
-Dynojet stage 1 kit
-Micron SS full exhaust
-Corbin seat
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Hmm, you might be onto something there, talking about the proportioning valve being plugged. Check out this thread from CatatonicBug for a bit of discussion about taking a proportioning valve apart for cleaning.
Also, be sure you see daylight for yourself through the spooge valve on the master cylinder, don't just rely on it looking like somebody else cleaned it - they may have missed it.
The caliper piston pushing in is good news - at least you know that's not the issue.Ken Talbot
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