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Im afraid Im very weak with electrical. My 79 1100E has stopped charging.
-Battery is good- fully charged reads 12.35 volts.
-I have a good digital testor.
-ALL CONNECTIONS WERE DEOXITed AND DIELECTRIC GREASED 2 YEARS AGO.
-Battery cables new 2 years ago.
-All chassis grounds sanded to shiny metal and greased- especially voltage regulator, its aluminum body, frame it mounts to and black wires connected to the regulator.
-Fuse panel is a new one with blade fuses.
-Red wire from regulator is NOT burned out.
-The 3 white wires for my stator read .4 ohm- This is spec
-The green and black for my field coil read 3.5 ohm. This is spec.
-A steel shim is magnetically attracted to the lower face of the alternator case cover when I turn on the key.
Heres where Im stupid- These quotations from forum tech tip:
"Unhook the field coil connector clip from behind the fuse panel.
Hook a ground to one wire of the field coil."
So I unplug this connector and connect a ground wire to the black or green?
The other end of the ground wire goes to a clean frame ground?
"Jumper the positive side of the battery and get the other
end of the jumper ready to provide current to the field coil at the clip."
Start the bike and read the voltage.Touch the remaining wire of the field coil and observe the voltage response across the battery."
So now I will run a wire from the positive battery lead to the field coil wire not grounded to the frame? But I do not connect this positive lead until the bike is running? Once bike is running, I connect my positive test lead and read volts at 2500rpm across my battery?
Im good mechanically but have not went beyond a simple test light for electrical diagnosis until recently. Thanks!! Mike
-Battery is good- fully charged reads 12.35 volts.
-I have a good digital testor.
-ALL CONNECTIONS WERE DEOXITed AND DIELECTRIC GREASED 2 YEARS AGO.
-Battery cables new 2 years ago.
-All chassis grounds sanded to shiny metal and greased- especially voltage regulator, its aluminum body, frame it mounts to and black wires connected to the regulator.
-Fuse panel is a new one with blade fuses.
-Red wire from regulator is NOT burned out.
-The 3 white wires for my stator read .4 ohm- This is spec
-The green and black for my field coil read 3.5 ohm. This is spec.
-A steel shim is magnetically attracted to the lower face of the alternator case cover when I turn on the key.
Heres where Im stupid- These quotations from forum tech tip:
"Unhook the field coil connector clip from behind the fuse panel.
Hook a ground to one wire of the field coil."
So I unplug this connector and connect a ground wire to the black or green?
The other end of the ground wire goes to a clean frame ground?
"Jumper the positive side of the battery and get the other
end of the jumper ready to provide current to the field coil at the clip."
Start the bike and read the voltage.Touch the remaining wire of the field coil and observe the voltage response across the battery."
So now I will run a wire from the positive battery lead to the field coil wire not grounded to the frame? But I do not connect this positive lead until the bike is running? Once bike is running, I connect my positive test lead and read volts at 2500rpm across my battery?
Im good mechanically but have not went beyond a simple test light for electrical diagnosis until recently. Thanks!! Mike
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