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Trouble Reinstalling Cams

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  • Trouble Reinstalling Cams

    Took the cams out to do a valve shim swap. Bent the valves in a head. Got a new head and now I'm running into problems at a certain step.

    During the step right after you install the first cam sprocket bolts it says to rotate the crankshaft to "C". The problem is every time I go to do this the cams don't move with the camshaft like there's slack at the bottom and the crank sprocket is skipping teeth (aka really bad). So, of course I stopped turning the crankshaft and promptly took the cams out again to prevent bending valves like the last time.

    I've been told to push in on the cam chain guide with my finger where the CCT goes to keep it on the teeth but every time it skips and I have to disassemble again to prevent damage (if I don't see the cams moving as I turn to "C" I stop immediately).

    So, how do I get the cam chain to stay on the crankshaft sprocket as I turn it to "C" like the manual says. I really don't feel like bending valves again. I've followed the manual to the letter but I can't seem to get past this step.
    78 E - 2to1 exhaust, dynatek coils, special headlight [SOLD!]
    79 F - gas tank refurb, headgasket change, straight pipes, late model carbs, virago lowering shocks, special headlight and gauges, TC fuse block, GSXR-1100 carbs (WIP)


    "May my tires not fail me, nor my engine grow cold"

  • #2
    perhaps your cam chain is worn?

    orpossibly you are not getting the chain properly set on the crank shaft gear?

    i had a hell of a time getting the chain on the crank gear...
    81 SH gifted to SON

    Comment


    • #3
      Hey Gabe,

      First of all, you probably need to take the bottom tranny/oil pan OFF and ensure that the chain is actually ON the crank sprocket!

      Or..have the cams/sprocket OUT and that way all of the valves are retracted into the head, and then you can pull the cam chain up and secure/hold it with a bungie or 2, and then you can test ROTATE the crank and see if the chain moves, but as has been stated before, it can get caught in the gap between the crank sprocket and crankcase/bearing cap, so you need to make VISUAL confirmation that the chain is ON the crank shaft sprocket.

      THEN, postion the crank at "T", install the cams with dots aligned and up. I've had to have the sprockets OFF first, then fit them with the chain and put them up on the cam shoulder, you may have to wiggle, finess the cam a little to get the sprocket bolt hole to line up, install the bolt in the top hole of each cam. I usually had the CCT install but not LOCKED so that it would keep the slack tightened up, but was still adjustable to allow wiggling the chain around a little. Then once both sprockets upper bolts are in place, lock the CCT, then you can rotate the crank and should see the cams moving at the same time and rotate to positon the bottom sprocket holes in the up position, put the remaining bolts in, torque, then rotate crank/cams so opposite bolt is back up, torque, then rotate again to check for "T" and cam dots, and then to "C" for final CCT adjustment. Then rotate again a few more rpms and recheck for timing dots and "T" marks.

      T.C.
      T. C. Gresham
      81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
      79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
      History shows again and again,
      How nature points out the folly of men!

      Comment


      • #4
        You can shine a flashlight down the cam chain tunnel to verify the chain is on the crank sprocket. I hope you are doing this work with the bike on the centerstand and not the side stand. The bike needs to be level so the chain hangs in the right place when installing on the lower crank sprocket. GL
        2H7 (79) owned since '89
        3H3 owned since '06

        "If it ain't broke, modify it"

        ☮

        Comment


        • #5
          Worst-case, I can come down tomorrow and help yah out. Planned-on taking the day off just to use vacation time.
          1979 XS1100F
          2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.

          Comment


          • #6
            Found my problem. The cam chain wasn't making it onto the crank sprocket. Probably why I bent all those valves the first time. It's a lot more effort to get it onto the sprocket than I originally thought since it was so easy the first two times I did this. Definitely going to make it a must-check point in the future even if I think everything is ok.

            Thanks everyone.
            78 E - 2to1 exhaust, dynatek coils, special headlight [SOLD!]
            79 F - gas tank refurb, headgasket change, straight pipes, late model carbs, virago lowering shocks, special headlight and gauges, TC fuse block, GSXR-1100 carbs (WIP)


            "May my tires not fail me, nor my engine grow cold"

            Comment


            • #7
              Success!

              Just fired up the bike and took it for a lap around the block. Everything sounds good and she rides even better than she did before! Thanks everyone for your help. I promise to do my best not to break anything else
              78 E - 2to1 exhaust, dynatek coils, special headlight [SOLD!]
              79 F - gas tank refurb, headgasket change, straight pipes, late model carbs, virago lowering shocks, special headlight and gauges, TC fuse block, GSXR-1100 carbs (WIP)


              "May my tires not fail me, nor my engine grow cold"

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by D0wn5h1ft View Post
                I promise to do my best not to break anything else
                Just check the oil every day and ride it, that's all I do.
                1979 XS1100F
                2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Just don't forget to RE-torque the head nuts after your warmup, cooldown cycle! Congrats, glad you found the problem, sorry that you didn't realize it earlier!

                  T.C.
                  T. C. Gresham
                  81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
                  79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
                  History shows again and again,
                  How nature points out the folly of men!

                  Comment

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