time on r&r cam chain?

[chevy45412001]

what kind of down time should i X-spect on cam chain R&R?Days hours just general not x-act of coarse.I'm 1/2 @ss mechanicaly inclined (i may be dumb but not stupid) Thank in advance.

[MartyA]

One good afternoon should do it. Mine took a week but I had a BIL who 'helped.' Check the tech tips, with a little help and some luck should take a couple of hours. If you have to take the friggin head off, fish for for the dropped new chain 2 days then take the bottom off and fish some more, then order and wait for a new head gasket, oil pan gasket, cam cover gasket, then beat your BIL with the head or a cam or two it might take a week...

[John]

The cam chain is a major job. I hope you have a manual because you have to:
A: Remove the cam chain tensioner
B: Remove the camshafts
C: Split the cases
D: Remove the connecting rods from the crankshaft
E: Remove the main shaft from the engine/HYVO chain, you'll know it when you see it. Big thick chain.
F: Remove crankshaft from engine. Cam chain will follow, it has no choice.
G: Remove cam chain from crankshaft.
H: Install new cam chain on crankshaft.
I: Reinstall in reverse order.

But...if the new chain has a master link, it can, but it is tough, be done through the top of the head. The hard part is getting the end of the chain looped around the crankshaft, and pulling it back up to the top. I'm doing a total rebuild/big bore kit on one of my XS11 engines, and I'm afraid there's no easy way to do this. That is why I replaced my cam chain while I have the engine scattered. BTW, do you know that 1100 isn't the size of the engine after all? That's the NUMBER OF PIECES INSIDE OF IT! You'll see when you open yours up. Good luck.

[MartyA]

You are right, John. I forgot the most important part. Get a chain with a master link or it IS a job and a half.

[Ken Talbot]

I helped Yukonman replace his camchain last summer. I seem to recall we got it done in a single, not overly long day. The new replacement chain he showed up with came with a master link.

Getting the new chain fished around the crankshaft was not too bad a job. We tied a piece of wire onto one end of the old chain after we dremeled one link apart, then used that wire to pull the new chain around. Once you've got both ends of the new chain in your hands, it is pretty easy to get it hooked onto the crankshaft sprocket, then the new master link installed. Just be sure not to remove the wire until you have the new link in place, or the chain could drop into the crankcase. You also want to be a bit careful that nothing else drops down into the crankcase.
DAMHIKIJD

[chevy45412001]

whew!

I got the man. Read the thread. Am getting the chain. I'm going to take cams out.Getting a master link.Getting a chain breaking tool. Am masterlinking the two together. Am having brother turn crank VERY slowly.As i hold both ends of chain right around till i have two ends of new chain.bing bang boom all done. Less than 4 hours.Coming back onto site to rent out my services....lol.POSITIVE ATTITUDE I CAN DO IT,I CAN DO IT,I CAN DO.....................lmbo.Thanks for the pep talk or prep talk.

[John]

You can do it, Big Block. We have faith. (I think he can, I think he can, I think he can) Remove the spark plugs. Makes turning the engine over much easier.

[Pat Kelly]

I recently replaced the cam chain on wifes XS750 (same as ours but chan is on the left end, not the middle).
I removed the cam cover, loosened the tensioner, split the chain (securing both ends with wire 1st), connected both chains, slid chain(s) around the 3 gears, removed old chain, connected ends of new chain with master link, PEENED ENDS OF PINS OF MASTER LINK, re tighned the tensioner, checked alignment marks, re-installed cam cover, rode bike.
Took a couple of hours and I DIDN'T rotate the engine. Really quite easy.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey there Chevy,

You should not need to turn the crankshaft, and you WILL NOT want to tun it if you still have the cams in place!!!! YOU WILL BEND VALVES if you do! Do NOT EVER TURN THE CRANK WITH THE CAMS INSTALLED if the cam chain isn't installed, and timed!

You should be able to line up the timing marks for the cams, then secure and then break/cut the chain and then fish/feed the new chain as you pull the old one after first allowing more slack in the feed side so as to allow the chain to drop away from the crank sprocket, then once you have the new chain around, then as you pull up the slack, it will slide back onto the crank sprocket, then drape it back around the cam sprockets, and put together, ALL WITHOUT MOVING/TURNING the crank or cams! Good luck!
T.C.

[chevy45412001]

don't know what to say

I don't know how to say this without hurting someones feelings.In my eyes it would be much easier to remove cams,split chain,attach old and new together(with a master link) have a GOOD helper(someone you actualy trust) rotate crank like i said.It seems to me to try to get the chain fished(?) around the crank and put on proper would be a royal pita. I have already been Xperimenting with my spare engine.I'm sticking with my way.Its basicaly like r&ring the cams(well sept for rolling the engine to put in chain) But hay i'm like a kid cant tell me nothing...lol. (and by the way i'm not cutting anyone down and i hope it doesn't sound like that that is not my intentions here)

[2fast]

either way should work

You can probably do the "turn the crank" method and make it work. If, and only if, you feed the new chain connected to the old chain with a master link and keep it carefully engaged on both cam gears so that everything rotates properly and in sync. Just be slow, careful and don't try to do it singlehanded! Let us know how it goes. Is the chain fully stretched? I presume that is why you are replacing it. If so, are you sure the valves and seals will not need work in the near future? If they are close, might as well do it all when you have it partially stripped. Just my 2 cents.
2fast

[TopCatGr58]

Hey there Chevy,

No hurt feelings, just thought not removing the cams would save you some time, vs. pulling all the bearing caps and nuts and such. Yes, IF the cams are removed, then all the valves are up into the head, no lobes pushing them down/open so it's safe to turn the crank as much as you want then. We know you know what you're doing. Sounds like a good plan. Have fun!
T.C.

[skids]

TC, I have a cam chain just waiting to be installed. It is no big deal to line-up the cams after releasing valve spring tension and that is how I will be doing this job. Can someone tell me: With the tensioner removed, should the chain slipper be centered in the hole? It seems like mine is to the left as I look into the hole.

Originally posted by TopCatGr58
Hey there Chevy,

[TopCatGr58]

Hey there Skids,

It's been 3 years since I had mine apart for my rebuild, but I'm pretty sure that they are right down the middle, the chain is right down the middle of the channel. I remember the sliders wanting to wiggle and tilt a little left or right while I was installing the head, the hinge pin on the bottom wasn't very snug, and so the slack allowed them to slide to the sides. And I just rechecked the microfiche diagram, it looks very centered as well!

Yeah, I didn't have the valve adjusting tool, and so that's how I had to do my lifter pad adjusments, installing, rotating and measuring, the removing the cams, replacing the lifter pads, and then reinstalling and rechecking. I was able to go back with my OEM chain, didn't relish the idea of splitting my cases at the time to replace it! I like the master link process much better!
T.C.

[chevy45412001]

cam chain arrival

well gang,or should i say Xsesive ones? Got my chain from partsnmore today. Was here before the gaskets i ordered from the dealer actually.(ordered them week before the chain,go figure)So it won't be long now.I rteally do hate that awfull noise from the chain.By the way it did come with master link ,so i'm in like flynt.I'll keep ya'll posted on progress (or lack of...lol)