Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

XS11 Dyna Coil upgrade

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #16
    Well, after tearing down the block of iron oxide that was the rear master cylinder I've managed to get brakes working well enough to bust the clutch free and have a *relatively* functional motorcycle. Waiting on parts now including a carb rebuild kit.
    Obviously she's still on the lift, but no sense in pulling the carbs until I have everything at hand to rebuild & balance them properly which is going to be a couple more weeks at least. In the meantime I'm going through what I can.
    Idle at startup is good, about 1100rpm on the dial. After any throttle idle settles around 2000+/- 200 or so. Downshift into 1st is heavy clunk, understandably so at those rpm's...
    81 SH

    Comment


    • #17
      Hey Charlie,

      Be aware that most "KITS" you find are the K&L brand, and their JETS are JUNK! They are NOT Genuine Mikuni, are not sized the same despite what they say, and can/will mess you up with tuning, especially the pilot jets!

      The main things you need out of the kits are the float bowl gaskets, the Viton Rubber tipped float valve needles, and the viton Oring that goes around the valve needle seat...it's pressed in and just held in place with the "C/U" shaped clamp. Depending on how rough you are getting the valve needle seat out, you may need that as well. The pilot jets are more prone to corrosion damage because they are smaller vs. the MAINs, but if you are able to get them out cleanly without damaging the straight screwdrive slot, then just soak the jets in carb cleaner of your choice, brush clean and reinstall. Don't forget to pull off and clean the little screens on the bottom of the valve needle seats. Oh, also the little washer and o-rings for the pilot jet idle screws on the top front of the carb.

      Hopefully you've read the carb R&R tech tip. Be careful about removing the float pins, and do as suggested and slightly grind them narrower so that they will just slide in and out of the carb body posts without friction, the float bowl will keep them in place, helps to not accidentally break the posts when going back into the carbs.

      T.C.
      T. C. Gresham
      81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
      79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
      History shows again and again,
      How nature points out the folly of men!

      Comment


      • #18
        yep, reading up on everything I can find before I start; I've been riding & wrenching on bikes for some 30-odd years now but no direct experience with this model, all input is more than welcome. I've got the idle down about right but obviously out of sync and judging by the overall poor condition of the machine I'm guessing it sat -outdoors- for quite awhile before I got it.
        My concern is that I have 5 bikes in the shop at the moment and limited (mental) facilities, breaking the carb down then waiting two weeks for parts is a recipe for disaster... but considering the $$$ of kits it makes more sense to order specific parts anyway. Slots are trashed on the idle screws to begin with.
        81 SH

        Comment


        • #19
          Cool! People still read my Dyna coil thread.
          Revived that bike last week, still runs.
          Pat Kelly
          <p-lkelly@sbcglobal.net>

          1978 XS1100E (The Force)
          1980 XS1100LG (The Dark Side)
          2007 Dodge Ram 2500 quad-cab long-bed (Wifes ride)
          1999 Suburban (The Ship)
          1994 Dodge Spirit (Son #1)
          1968 F100 (Valentine)

          "No one is totally useless. They can always be used as a bad example"

          Comment

          Working...
          X