Called the local Yamaha shop yesterday. $500 to adjust the valves. Have to learn to do it myself. Saw a motion pro tool on ebay for $12 shipped. Is this a genuine tool or a cheap knock off that doesnt work? Yamaha tool is $80 and cant find one anywhere. Where can I find the chart for the for sizes that I need-saw it in a thread-just cant seem to remember where. Thanks for the help.
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I have a moton pro tool and it works fine for me. Others have expressed frustration but once I learned how to use it it's really quite easy.
A lot of others here swear by loosening the came bearing caps and raising the cams to swap shims. I don't subscribe to that method because messing with the cam cap nuts you run the risk of pulling threads or accidentally leaving one or more loose. And raising the cams you run the risk of getting the cam timing off. I have heard of both happening.
Just my $.02Greg
Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.”
― Albert Einstein
80 SG Ol' Okie;79 engine & carbs w/pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, Custom Mac 4 into 2 exhaust, ACCT,XS850 final drive,110/90/19 front tire,TKat fork brace, XS750 140 MPH speedometer, Vetter IV fairing, aftermarket hard bags and trunk, LG high back seat, XJ rear shocks.
The list changes.
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valves
I have the motion pro tool and it works fine as well.
Also use a magnet from an old computer(don't ask) to help retrieve the shims.
good luck.78standard,79 & 80 Specials; 2 x 650 Maxims; 4 x RD350's; yz450; 2 x Honda tlr's;2x jt1 mini.
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fyi if you question the tool you need to add the ebay link so it can be seen.Max
81 XS1100SH Black Beast Mutt
Kerker 4/1
stock carbs and air box.
78 headlite, handle bars,
1 set of ea-160/85mph guages,
crash bars, cruise control
Other 2 Wheelers
78 XS1100E jet kit, Kerker 4/1, air pods, jet kit-RIP
94 CBR1000F jet kit,Two Bros pipe, K&N Filter
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Do yourself a favor and don't bother with the metric chart.
Get a Zero to one 'Merican micrometer, one that measures in thousandths, and measure the shims. The shims come on two thousandth increments, so if the valve is tight, the next smallest number of shim will be two thou thinner.
That is as close as you can get it unless you have a surface grinder.
And measure the shims before you put them in, just to be sure.
CZ
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Originally posted by CaptonZap View PostDo yourself a favor and don't bother with the metric chart.
Get a Zero to one 'Merican micrometer, one that measures in thousandths, and measure the shims. The shims come on two thousandth increments, so if the valve is tight, the next smallest number of shim will be two thou thinner.
That is as close as you can get it unless you have a surface grinder.
And measure the shims before you put them in, just to be sure.
CZ
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I had a tough time with the Motion Pro tool, it would get hung up somehow. Then I followed advice found on here about grinding it a bit, and it worked just fine.
Had to hog out the screw slots for correct adjustment.
Also had to grind the face a little to gain enough clearance.
Side view shows the slight taper down to the tip.
One tip I can offer is that when you're all done and putting the tool away until needed again, take a moment to tape the accompanying screw to the tool so it's there when you want it again in the future.
scoot
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Personally, I found the tool useless and got rid of it the day it arrived. IMO any tool that needs all that grinding and drilling to make it work just isn't worth mucking about with or spending any money on. I emailed Georgefix and he said to send my comments to MotionPro and that they would take feedback very seriously. I did exactly that and received no response whatsoever.
When I tried to use the tool, it looked very much like it would damage the top of the valve bucket tube in the head and I ended up removing the cams and doing it that way.XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.
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It's unfortunate that so many condemn a simple tool like this simply because they expect the tool to do all the work and can't figure out how to use it.
I could SHOW anyone with mechanical aptitude how to use it in 5 minutes and I have explained it many times here but my words seem to be wasted.
It's just a matter of understanding how it works and how to set it up. No drilling or grinding necessary.Greg
Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.”
― Albert Einstein
80 SG Ol' Okie;79 engine & carbs w/pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, Custom Mac 4 into 2 exhaust, ACCT,XS850 final drive,110/90/19 front tire,TKat fork brace, XS750 140 MPH speedometer, Vetter IV fairing, aftermarket hard bags and trunk, LG high back seat, XJ rear shocks.
The list changes.
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I have to agree with BA80 as far as taking cam bearing caps loose. That would be a last resort under any circumstances(cam chain replacment, cyl. removal, etc.). That assembly torque and oil clearance, being an aluminum assembly will never be the same tolerances as it was initially from the factory.
True enough, alot of folks here remove those cam retainer caps to do the shim swapping task, but from ALOT of posted pics asking about cam timing alignment dots amd such, I sure see an excessive amount of cam support lobe wear on cams AND retaining caps, aside from some of those pics showing an excessive amout of cam lobe pitting. In the performance automotive world, that would be considered unacceptable to re-install a cam in that cond., so I just cringe when I hear folks pulling cams bearing caps loose just to do a valve adjustment.
Modification of the MP tool by grinding out a bit of a recess is commonly done, even by those professionally trained to wrench on these ole' 11's if they don't have the Yamaha built one.
Copyright infringements, unfortunately dictate those differences, and a member here some time back showed pics of both tools showing that difference between the two.81H Venturer1100 "The Bentley" (on steroids) 97 Yamaha YZ250(age reducer) 92 Honda ST1100 "Twisty"(touring rocket) Age is relative to the number of seconds counted 'airing' out an 85ft. table-top.
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I agree, I have the Motion Pro tool as well and never had to do anything to it. Drops right in, does its job and comes right out.Nathan
KD9ARL
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1978 XS1100E
K&N Filter
#45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
OEM Exhaust
ATK Fork Brace
LED Dash lights
Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters
Green Monster Coils
SS Brake Lines
Vision 550 Auto Tensioner
In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.
Theodore Roosevelt
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Originally posted by BA80 View PostIt's unfortunate that so many condemn a simple tool like this simply because they expect the tool to do all the work and can't figure out how to use it.
I could SHOW anyone with mechanical aptitude how to use it in 5 minutes and I have explained it many times here but my words seem to be wasted.
It's just a matter of understanding how it works and how to set it up. No drilling or grinding necessary.Marty (in Mississippi)
XS1100SG
XS650SK
XS650SH
XS650G
XS6502F
XS650E
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I'll be looking for a Yamaha tool then. Taking the cams out is a pain, of course, but grinding away a cheapo tool is worse, IMO. I didn't realise that copyright issues made the Motion Pro tool different from the Yamaha one and it's obviously not something the MP are going to mention, I suppose. I presume that's why they didn't respond in any way to the email I sent them.....XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.
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