rectifier burning up - Help

[unicorncomputer]

Ok, here we go.

About a week ago, I noticed my bike was starting to run a little rough, don't think it is the carbs, I just had them off, cleaned and synced. I started the bike up to warm to see if it was still rough after work. I let it run for 5 minutes or so, then gave it some light revving to settle the idle after turning off the enricher. all of a sudden, the dash lights got really bright, even saw the head lamp light on, which I had never seen before, then the bike quit. I have had to replace a main fuse and head light fuse last summer so I just figured it was another fuse. It was, 30a main fuse. I didn't have any more, but had bought the fuse block off TC last summer so I figured it was time to replace it. I finished rewiring in the new fuse block and put the fuses in according to the original paper label.

this is where it gets bad, I turned the key to the on position, neutral light came on, good sign, then seconds later I heard an electrical pop and smoke from under the gas tank. I removed the gas tank and couldn't see anything obvious or feel anything hot. I turned the key back to on to see the rectifier start smoking near the green and brown wires.

Obviously I need to replace the rectifier, but my question is could it be the rectifier that caused the problem to begin with, or could there be something else that is causing the problem.

I labeled the wires one at a time as I removed them from the old fuse box and someone was watching me said that there wasn't any way I could have messed it up.

What can I look for to make sure nothing else is bad?

Thank you in advance for your help as always.

Steve

[motoman]

Ok, here we go.

About a week ago, I noticed my bike was starting to run a little rough, don't think it is the carbs, I just had them off, cleaned and synced. I started the bike up to warm to see if it was still rough after work. I let it run for 5 minutes or so, then gave it some light revving to settle the idle after turning off the enricher. all of a sudden, the dash lights got really bright, even saw the head lamp light on, which I had never seen before, then the bike quit. I have had to replace a main fuse and head light fuse last summer so I just figured it was another fuse. It was, 30a main fuse. I didn't have any more, but had bought the fuse block off TC last summer so I figured it was time to replace it. I finished rewiring in the new fuse block and put the fuses in according to the original paper label.

this is where it gets bad, I turned the key to the on position, neutral light came on, good sign, then seconds later I heard an electrical pop and smoke from under the gas tank. I removed the gas tank and couldn't see anything obvious or feel anything hot. I turned the key back to on to see the rectifier start smoking near the green and brown wires.

Obviously I need to replace the rectifier, but my question is could it be the rectifier that caused the problem to begin with, or could there be something else that is causing the problem.

I labeled the wires one at a time as I removed them from the old fuse box and someone was watching me said that there wasn't any way I could have messed it up.

What can I look for to make sure nothing else is bad?

Thank you in advance for your help as always.

Steve

That be the regulator, not recifier your referring to....big difference. Unplug and inspect/clean that large plug-in behind fuse panel for starters, (and all other plug-ins while your at it)......it's time.

Majority of carb issues are ignition related........first.

[BA80]

Be sure you haven't accidentally grounded one of the new connectors. The lights getting bright like that does sound like a regulator though.

Hook a volt meter to the battery and start it and check your voltage.

Does your deadlight still work on dim and bright? You may have toasted the dim light if the voltage spiked. That would kick the headlight warning.

[unicorncomputer]

I will definitely clean the array of connectors. Could it be just the regulator that caused the problems to begin with? I guess I am worried that there is another problem somewhere, that I would like to find before I turn the key on again.

Could the running rough have been caused by a failing regulator?

Thank you for you knowledge and quick reply.

Steve

That be the regulator, not recifier your referring to....big difference. Unplug and inspect/clean that large plug-in behind fuse panel for starters, (and all other plug-ins while your at it)......it's time.

Majority of carb issues are ignition related........first.

[unicorncomputer]

Be sure you haven't accidentally grounded one of the new connectors. The lights getting bright like that does sound like a regulator though.

Hook a volt meter to the battery and start it and check your voltage.

Does your deadlight still work on dim and bright? You may have toasted the dim light if the voltage spiked. That would kick the headlight warning.

Sorry for the ignorance that follows, can I safely still try and start the bike with the regulator removed? And what do you mean by "deadlight"

Thank you for the quick responses.

Steve

[unicorncomputer]

used regulator?

Is it safe to purchase a used regulator from Ebay? I see new ones for around 120-140, but see some used ones for 30-50 shipped.

Thank you,

Steve

[BA80]

And what do you mean by "deadlight"

Steve

It means I have fat fingers and hit the wrong deter (letter). LOL

This one looks good and at a good price with a 15 day money back return. If you send it back all your out is the shipping. You might send him a message and see if he'll drop the shipping down. It shouldn't be more than $6



http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-1980-...ab7d0d&vxp=mtr

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Greg,

That R/R is a great price, it's off a machine that had seen very little service, less than 10K miles. However, here's what they say about their shipping policy!

•WHY IS SHIPPING SO HIGH?

WE PUT IN THE TRUE SIZE AND WEIGHT, THE REST IS UP TO THE UPS/EBAY CALCULATOR. THEY MAKE THE MONEY PLEASE DONT DING US ON THE RATING....IT'S OUT OF OUR CONTROL. IF WE HAVE TO BUY A BOX ,WE WILL CHARGE FOR THAT ,JUST TO COVER COST. WE ARE ON THE WEST COAST SO IF YOU'RE ON THE EAST COAST IT COST MORE TO SHIP THAN AN ITEM THE NEXT STATE OVER.

Which is a bit of BS to me. That part can easily fit into a USPS Priority Small shipping box($5.95 and box is free), but they ship UPS!

And they DON'T Guarantee the part or offer a refund/exchange policy, just that if a bidder wants a PERFECT part they should go to a dealer!

This is where we like to promote a NEW part with higher quality components than OEM, and will create charging current at lower rpms than OEM as well. The Geezer unit...see the For Sale Forum, Parts/services, and then parts/services by members STICKY thread...scroll thru it, you'll see it. This is a more expensive item than the eBay one, but you get NEW PARTS/COMPONENTS and a lifetime guarantee, and it works better than OEM! It does NOT cause the system to produce more power/amps than it would with the OEM, just more sooner at lower rpms! Your choice.

T.C.

[BA80]

Hey Greg,

That R/R is a great price, it's off a machine that had seen very little service, less than 10K miles. However, here's what they say about their shipping policy!



Which is a bit of BS to me. That part can easily fit into a USPS Priority Small shipping box($5.95 and box is free), but they ship UPS!

And they DON'T Guarantee the part or offer a refund/exchange policy, just that if a bidder wants a PERFECT part they should go to a dealer!

This is where we like to promote a NEW part with higher quality components than OEM, and will create charging current at lower rpms than OEM as well. The Geezer unit...see the For Sale Forum, Parts/services, and then parts/services by members STICKY thread...scroll thru it, you'll see it. This is a more expensive item than the eBay one, but you get NEW PARTS/COMPONENTS and a lifetime guarantee, and it works better than OEM! It does NOT cause the system to produce more power/amps than it would with the OEM, just more sooner at lower rpms! Your choice.

T.C.

Yeah, the ebaby rapers take the same cut out of the shipping as they do the selling price. I confronted them about that and got banned. Imagine that.

The listing does show a 15 day money back guarantee and all you need to do is threaten a seller with a claim if a part doesn't work and they will give in. Negative feed back is worse than death for an ebay seller. BTDT.

[motoman]

Most importantly, be sure and clean ALL the plug-in connections, or your liable to end up where your at now. Once cleaned, dob some dielectic grease in connectors BEFORE plugging back in.

[unicorncomputer]

Does anybody know anything about these regulators - it is new shipped from California for $59.00 He is showing 99.5% rating out of 122000+.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/REGULATOR-RE...p2054897.l5662

[unicorncomputer]

Found a regulator from 19k mile bike in Schenectady NY, only an hour from me, for $35.

Going to pick it up Thursday and hopefully have the bike running again friday night.

Anything else besides cleaning the connectors I should check before turning the bike on again?

As always, thank you for all your help.

Steve

[unicorncomputer]

Be sure you haven't accidentally grounded one of the new connectors. The lights getting bright like that does sound like a regulator though.

Hook a volt meter to the battery and start it and check your voltage.

Does your deadlight still work on dim and bright? You may have toasted the dim light if the voltage spiked. That would kick the headlight warning.

Can I start it when the regulator is out?

I have cleaned the connectors - they looked decent to start with.

Is there anything else I should test / check before putting the new regulator in and starting it up ?

What should the voltages/amps be coming out of each of the fuses,

Main
Head
Signal
Ignition

Thank you,

Steve

[unicorncomputer]

battery

Battery reads 13.10 volts before turning the bike on, is that too high?

[motoman]

[QUOTE=unicorncomputer;440724]Can I start it when the regulator is out?

I have cleaned the connectors - they looked decent to start with.

Is there anything else I should test / check before putting the new regulator in and starting it up ?

What should the voltages/amps be coming out of each of the fuses,

Main
Head
Signal
Ignition

Thank you,
Unplug and clean connections of the big plug-in behind the fuse panel, and the others too.

Nothiing coming 'out of them' so to speak. All fused connections should read same votage as it does at batt. when key on. Any voltage loss needs to be traced between batt. and whatever point the loss is at. That loss can commonly be traced to cruddy contacts in ignition switch and kill switch as both complete the circuit, along with faulty grounds that may 'look' good. The three grounding wires attached to reg. mount is a good place to start by shining up contact areas, including grounding mount srew.....same with ALL other grounds, as there are several.

Your static batt. voltage is fine at 13v. Normally, good, fully charged batt.(test lite or equivelant across terms. to initially 'knock off' the surface charge if immediately checking after charging first) voltage will be 12.7-13.4v range.

Actual amp. load on each of those circuits.......I've never actually checked myself, and reg. has to be connected I believe to complete circuit.