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  • Starter Issue? 1st start of the day.

    I am posting this because, the first time I start my bike for the day I keep getting this noise. I am wondering if my starter is getting ready to go or if something else is going on. It will do it repeatedly on cool mornings when the bike is being difficult to start(cool being under 50).

    Today was 77 degrees all day, when I just took this at 7:30 it was about 70 degrees still.

    Let me know what you think about it.

    Video
    79 XS1100 SF

  • #2
    Starter clutch is slipping, sometimes by flushing the oil out with MMO or Seafoam will cure it. To replace it would require splitting the engine cases.
    2H7 (79) owned since '89
    3H3 owned since '06

    "If it ain't broke, modify it"

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    • #3
      Yup, what bikerphil said. Tsunami has been doing this for a few years now, early in the season when temperatures are low. With 125,000 kms on the clock, (78,000 miles) that's probably to be expected. So far, it doesn't bother me enough to make me want to tear into it.

      YMMV...
      Ken Talbot

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      • #4
        Doesn't sound horrible, but not good either.

        What is the process for flushing the oil?

        Not to sound stupid, but you are referencing the Main Oil for the engine correct, or is this for the middle oil?




        Originally posted by bikerphil View Post
        Starter clutch is slipping, sometimes by flushing the oil out with MMO or Seafoam will cure it. To replace it would require splitting the engine cases.
        Last edited by unicorncomputer; 05-11-2014, 12:53 PM.
        79 XS1100 SF

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        • #5
          Originally posted by unicorncomputer View Post
          Doesn't sound horrible, but not good either.

          What is the process for flushing the oil?

          Not to sound stupid, but you are referencing the Main Oil for the engine correct, or is this for the middle oil?
          You can flush the engine crankcase by just changing the oil. There are many products you can use to flush but I like to use cheap lighter than factory spec. oil. You are just going to dump this flushing oil once done or maybe flush the lawn mower or some other engine/s with it until it's really dark/dirty. Mix the cheap flushing oil with Seafoam or other (half can to full can in the flushing oil) run for at least 10 mi., light on the throttle but get the rpms. up, use your starter a number of times to help clean it.

          He's talking Marvel Mystery Oil or Seafoam. Of the two I think I'd go with the Seafoam.
          76 XS650 C ROADSTER
          80 XS650 G Special II
          https://ibb.co/album/icbGgF
          80 XS 1100 SG
          81 XS 1100LH/SH DARKHORSE
          https://tinyurl.com/k6nzvtw
          AKA; Don'e, UD, Unca Don'e

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          • #6
            Thank you, I will pick up some more seafoam, only a little left in the can and I think I have a 5 quart jug of 10-40 oil.
            79 XS1100 SF

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            • #7
              Mine does that sometimes when the oil is cold, it is worse when the temps are like below 40F. I see your running 10w40, that's a little light for these bikes but it may be OK in the cooler climate there but most people run 20w50.

              That doesn't matter as much as the API service stamp on the container. It should look like this one, blank on the bottom. If it isn't it will have some friction modifiers in it that will make your transmission clutch slip and possibly could affect starter clutch operation too.

              Greg

              Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.”

              ― Albert Einstein

              80 SG Ol' Okie;79 engine & carbs w/pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, Custom Mac 4 into 2 exhaust, ACCT,XS850 final drive,110/90/19 front tire,TKat fork brace, XS750 140 MPH speedometer, Vetter IV fairing, aftermarket hard bags and trunk, LG high back seat, XJ rear shocks.

              The list changes.

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              • #8
                Hopefully you haven't started doing this yet!? MMO is a very good cleaning oil, and the crankcase can easily hold a few extra ounces BEFORE draining it. SO...why waste a full new 3 quarts of new oil? Just add the 1/2 bottle of MMO to your crankcase, start it, run it GENTLY up to normal operating temps which would be about 10 minutes...DO NOT DRIVE IT, NO LOAD on the engine. The cleaner solution MMO really thins out the oil as it works on removing gum/varnish and such from the internal parts as the oil washes over/thru them. Then turn off and drain the oil and change the filter. IF you're really paranoid, you even tap the starter once the oil has mostly drained just to get the last bit out of the PUMP/sump pickup tube. However, the oil being thinned by the MMO should drain fairly completely from the engine.

                Then just fill with the quality oil the Greg showed! You can pull the plug wires so that you can turn the engine over with the starter for 10-15 seconds to get the pump primed again. Would take more strain off of the starter/battery if you pull the spark PLUGS. And use 10 second bursts and then stop/rest so as not to overheat the starter motor.

                T.C.
                T. C. Gresham
                81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
                79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
                History shows again and again,
                How nature points out the folly of men!

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                • #9
                  If pulling the plugs, plug wires back on and ground plugs before cranking over if using the start button. With ignition off, using a remote start button to starter relay keeps from having to do that.
                  81H Venturer1100 "The Bentley" (on steroids) 97 Yamaha YZ250(age reducer) 92 Honda ST1100 "Twisty"(touring rocket) Age is relative to the number of seconds counted 'airing' out an 85ft. table-top.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by TopCatGr58 View Post
                    Hopefully you haven't started doing this yet!? (snip)T.C.
                    I agree with TC ... why waste good oil? I don't know if it is necessary to pull the plugs while hitting the starter however. I would probably just pull the plug wires or ignition fuse or something.
                    Skids (Sid Hansen)

                    Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.

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                    • #11
                      Is it normal practice to pull wires and run engine a little after oil change or is it just because of the flushing the oil?
                      79 XS1100 SF

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                      • #12
                        Is there a huge difference between the Fram oil filter at 5.39 vs the K&N filter at 15.99?
                        79 XS1100 SF

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by unicorncomputer View Post
                          Is there a huge difference between the Fram oil filter at 5.39 vs the K&N filter at 15.99?
                          I was kinda curious about that myself. The only time I've ever done that is with a freshly assembled engine. Seems a little much for an engine that already has oil in the galleys.
                          Greg

                          Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.”

                          ― Albert Einstein

                          80 SG Ol' Okie;79 engine & carbs w/pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, Custom Mac 4 into 2 exhaust, ACCT,XS850 final drive,110/90/19 front tire,TKat fork brace, XS750 140 MPH speedometer, Vetter IV fairing, aftermarket hard bags and trunk, LG high back seat, XJ rear shocks.

                          The list changes.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by unicorncomputer View Post
                            Is there a huge difference between the Fram oil filter at 5.39 vs the K&N filter at 15.99?
                            About $10. A lot of the people are leery of the Fram filter for some reason but I've never had a problem with them. The K&N is a higher quality filter but in the end all it does is filter the oil. Fram does that just fine.
                            Greg

                            Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.”

                            ― Albert Einstein

                            80 SG Ol' Okie;79 engine & carbs w/pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, Custom Mac 4 into 2 exhaust, ACCT,XS850 final drive,110/90/19 front tire,TKat fork brace, XS750 140 MPH speedometer, Vetter IV fairing, aftermarket hard bags and trunk, LG high back seat, XJ rear shocks.

                            The list changes.

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by unicorncomputer View Post
                              Is there a huge difference between the Fram oil filter at 5.39 vs the K&N filter at 15.99?
                              Even if you change the Fram out twice as often as the K&N, you still save about $5.
                              Hi, my name is George & I'm a twisty addict!

                              80G (Green paint(PO idea))
                              The Green Monster
                              K&N A/F, TC's fuse block, '81 oil cooler, TC's homemade 4-2 w/Mac Mufflers, Raptor 660 ACCT
                              Got him in '04.
                              bald tire & borrowing parts

                              80SG (Black w/red emblems & calipers)
                              Scarlet
                              K&N A/F, TC's fuse block, WJ5, Shoei bags, Raptor 660 ACCT.
                              Got her in '11
                              Ready for the twisties!

                              81H (previously CPMaynard's)
                              Hugo
                              Full Venturer, Indigo Blue with B/W painted tank.
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