is this right?

[wjw11teen]

im trying to sync my carbs

i have the tank sitting backwards on frame

i have the fuel lines hooked in they're normal opperation positions, with the exception that the rear lines that run directly to octopus are caped off

i am setting the petcock to prime

and i cant get the carbs to stop puking gas

carbs have been kitted and are with out a doubt clean

is the problem mabey the way i have it hooked up?? really need advice

[motoman]

im trying to sync my carbs

i have the tank sitting backwards on frame

i have the fuel lines hooked in they're normal opperation positions, with the exception that the rear lines that run directly to octopus are caped off

i am setting the petcock to prime

and i cant get the carbs to stop puking gas

carbs have been kitted and are with out a doubt clean

is the problem mabey the way i have it hooked up?? really need advice

No, the problem be with the needle/seat..........or float hangin' up on side of bowl gasket. Remove carbs(which your gonna have to do anyways), remove bowls and with an exacto knife or similar trim the inside eges of gaskets with gaskets in place. Be sure and blow any pieces from inside carb area. Replacement gaskets(and even originals) will kinda push outward ever so little when squished, and there is little room there for float clearance.

[natemoen]

Try giving the carbs a knock with a screw driver handle. Sometimes the floats get stuck when they get filled the first time after being dry.

[MPittma100]

Carbs

The carbs leaking gas has nothing to do with how you have them supplied with fuel. The carbs should stop the flow of fuel via the float valves (needle and seat).

As you may have read on this forum, the float height adjustment is a) critical and b) tedious. Both floats in all carbs have to be at the same height - different heights for different floats. If you are sure that you have set them properly, a simple tap on the float bowls some times will cure the problem.

Determine which carburetor(s) is leaking. If the tapping does no good, you are faced with removing them and opening up the affected one(s).

Prior to installing the carbs again, run fuel to them while off of the bike and check for leaks.

Incorrect float height, trash in the fuel system (hoses, petcocks, lines), and the float hanging on the bowl gasket can all contribute to spillage.

There is not one XSive that has not had to take the carbs on and off more than once. So join the crowd - be patient. When you get them right, you will be a happy camper.

Once they are right, they tend to stay right. Do yourself a favor - when letting the bike sit for extended periods, leave only non-ethanol gas in the fuel system. This will save you many a headache.

Mike

[Dylano*]

People saying that it doesn't matter hwo you are supplying fuel...

From my expierence that is false...

I had my carb's off, and fully rebuilt them,
Afterwards, when everythign was adjust I did a bench test to ssee if then would hold a proper level...

My carb's were sitting on the bench and there was a hose going from the fuel inlet (between 1 and 2, and, 3 and 4 at seperate times) straig upwards to a funnel full of gas.

No matter what I did, they would not stop puking gas.

I checked and re-adjusted the floats to PERFECT,
and yet they still leaked and overflowed.

I decided that MAYBE the fact the the fuel was going from straight up 1ft above the carbs right DOWN into the inlets that was somehow making too much preassure and screwing something up.

Since ont he bike the fuel goes through the regulater then filters then UPHILL to the carb inlets...

So after about 2 hours of frustratiobn I said "SCREW it, I KNOW htye are adjusted correctly, I'm just gonna put them on the bike...

I put them on and they haven't leaked a drop since.

Maybe try hooking your tank up the proper way?
That is my only advise.

Godo luck!

[BA80]

I've synced carbs with an auxiliary tank hanging 6' from the rafters in the garage. Never had a problem if the carbs are right. If the carbs are puking gas then there is something wrong with the carbs.

[natemoen]

People saying that it doesn't matter hwo you are supplying fuel...

From my expierence that is false...

I had my carb's off, and fully rebuilt them,
Afterwards, when everythign was adjust I did a bench test to ssee if then would hold a proper level...

My carb's were sitting on the bench and there was a hose going from the fuel inlet (between 1 and 2, and, 3 and 4 at seperate times) straig upwards to a funnel full of gas.

No matter what I did, they would not stop puking gas.

I checked and re-adjusted the floats to PERFECT,
and yet they still leaked and overflowed.

I decided that MAYBE the fact the the fuel was going from straight up 1ft above the carbs right DOWN into the inlets that was somehow making too much preassure and screwing something up.

Since ont he bike the fuel goes through the regulater then filters then UPHILL to the carb inlets...

So after about 2 hours of frustratiobn I said "SCREW it, I KNOW htye are adjusted correctly, I'm just gonna put them on the bike...

I put them on and they haven't leaked a drop since.

Maybe try hooking your tank up the proper way?
That is my only advise.

Godo luck!

Yes, it is possible that too much head pressure can cause the floats to fail. It is no different than pushing a empty bottle under water.

I do however find it very hard to believe that a funnel of gas a foot above is enough. I have used a IV pole with a 1 gallon gas can hanging by the handle about 3-4 feet above the carbs and not had an issue.

[wjw11teen]

thanks for the replies fellas!!

i have the puking carb thing fixed.....

now ..the NEW problem

i reinstalled carbs today and fired her up...checked headers with my hand and # 3 not firing

checked spark...its good....cranked her over and put finger on plug hole....no joy!!

pulled carbs and shot a blast of air into plug hole....blew by right through the valve into intake boot

(yes..i made sure the cam was rotated to a closed valve position on both int and ex..

pulled cams and cyl head found both valves in #3 cyl bent enough to not seal


thankfully i still have plenty of parts from the head i bought from Greg...thanks again Greg!!
head re assembled and now im looking for a new head gasket......need a recomendation on brand and where to find one

ebay has a bunch for big bore kits...i dont want to buy a complete kit again if i dont have to

i will be back AGAIN when i re assemble and start the process of installing cams

last time it seemed the marks on the cap compared to the ones in the cam shafts where not exactly lined up

by eye it looked like moving cams 1 tooth would be to much the other way

not sure if that was the problem but ill figure out how to post some picks this time if i need to

also ..the marks on the caps where different than the ones in the pictorial

there are marks on both sides of each cap...a dot and an arrow? the dots should line up correct?

my caps where set up so the arrow side was facing the cam shaft dots instead

i double and triple checked the position marking on the caps and they where correct to each cam and direction...not sure this was the problem but would like advice...

good news is that i found a couple of the gremlins so far...gotta find a couple more then everything should be good to go


thank you all very much for all your patience and support.....with your help i believe I WILL WIN!!!!

[graybird78]

as stated,something wrong in carbs. the needles and seats if good should seal. there are o-rings on the seats that can go bad and leak. the floats being uneven, float gaskets being flattened out causing floats to hang up. ive had each of these happen to my sg.carbs can be a pain.

[BA80]

Bill, when your lining up the marks on the cams your best bet is to just leave the cams out when you install the head then install the cams with the marks where they need to be. (or at least as close as you can). If you rotate those cams individually without the cam chain installed the valves may hit each other and bend.

If your adjusting the valves with the head off the engine install ONE cam at a time and adjust it then remove that one ( or at least loosen the caps so the valves don't open) then install the other cam and adjust those valves. Also, support the head so the valves don't hit your work bench. Getting manly could bend one if it hits.

Bottom line, don't tighten the caps until you have the marks lined up and be sure the hole in the cam gear with the little point is in the hole closest to the dot on the cam.

natemoen can tell you all about it. I had to send him a head for parts too.

[wjw11teen]

well Greg i think you figured out how i F'ed up the valves

i installed both cams on the bench to set lash and turned both of them ALOT

i did it again after i installed the head on the engine..OOOOOPPS!!!

well all i need now is a head gasket...can they still be had OEM? from dealer?

i would settle for after market if i could find one in stock size...

[natemoen]

natemoen can tell you all about it. I had to send him a head for parts too.

Yup.......

[BA80]

I think I gave you this link to fleabay before.....

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw...asket&_sacat=0

You can get them for $20 or $30 but they will be coming from Europe so at LEAST 2 weeks. If your new gasket you just put on doesn't delaminate when you take it off you should be good to reuse it.

I've actually done that with car engines and gotten away with it before with new gaskets.

[BA80]

Also Bill, when you adjust those valves, loose is BETTER than tight. If one shim is too loose and the next one is too tight, go with the one that's too loose. It will tighten up with wear.

My 79 sounded like it was going to explode any minute but MAN THAT THING WOULD RUN!!!!!!!!!!

[TopCatGr58]

well Greg i think you figured out how i F'ed up the valves

i installed both cams on the bench to set lash and turned both of them ALOT

i did it again after i installed the head on the engine..OOOOOPPS!!!

well all i need now is a head gasket...can they still be had OEM? from dealer?

i would settle for after market if i could find one in stock size...

Hey Bill,

Welcome to the CLUB! I did the same thing the first time when I was doing my big bore kit job in 2000. Got the engine all buttoned up, did a static compression test and "0" on my #3 cylinder. Had to tear it back down to pull the head and repair/replace the bent valves. They are interference design which means that the exhaust and intake valves can NOT occupy the same space at the same time and will hit each other IF the cams are rotated independently while both installed!

Yep, Tod/Trbig has reused head gaskets many times...you only fired it up one time, so the gasket shouldn't be too sticky so you should be able to get a clean separation and be able to put it back together. Just remember to retorque AFTER you fire the bike up thru a warm up and cool down cycle.

T.C.