Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

wont start when hot

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • wont start when hot

    Hello. I have a 78 xs1100 and recently it won't start when it gets hot... Let it cool off for a day fires right up.
    78 E

  • #2
    Check battery voltage under load - when the bike is hot the battery may not be carrying the 10.71 volts necessary when the starter is running to fire the TCI. If voltage dips lower it will crank and crank but never start.

    John
    John is in an anonymous city with an Alamo (N29.519227,W-98.678980)

    Go ahead, click on the bikes - you know you want to...the electrons are ready.
    '81 XS1100H - "Enterprise"
    Bob Jones Custom Navy bike: Tkat brace, EBC floating rotors & SS lines, ROX pivot risers, Geezer rectifier, new 3H3 engine

    "Not all treasure is silver and gold"

    Comment


    • #3
      Do you ever have misfires under hard acceleration? One symptom of my bad pick-up coil wires was that it didn't like to start when hot.

      I'm starting to think that my main contribution here is to tell people to check their pick-up coil wires. So, check your pick-up coil wires
      '80 SG with motor from a '82 XJ

      Comment


      • #4
        Bike starts easy first thing in the am. Hit the store, gas station and work on prob... But I take it for a 50-60 mile ride she runs great.. no lag, skips or pops... Turn it off try starting ten minutes later just cranks, and cranks. Don't even spit or sputter.
        78 E

        Comment


        • #5
          I have one like that (maybe two). I found that if you pull out the "choke" lever and give it just a tiny bit of throttle, it will fire.
          Skids (Sid Hansen)

          Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.

          Comment


          • #6
            I would try just the opposite of what skids said. A lot of people (including me sometimes) experience a similar issue when on long rides most particularly when it's hot outside.

            We found that just holding the throttle wide open when cranking clears out the fuel vapor that collects in the air filter (air box) because of the heat causing evaporation of the fuel.

            You might give that a try. That's what it sounds like to me.
            Greg

            Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.”

            ― Albert Einstein

            80 SG Ol' Okie;79 engine & carbs w/pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, Custom Mac 4 into 2 exhaust, ACCT,XS850 final drive,110/90/19 front tire,TKat fork brace, XS750 140 MPH speedometer, Vetter IV fairing, aftermarket hard bags and trunk, LG high back seat, XJ rear shocks.

            The list changes.

            Comment


            • #7
              Have you cleaned up your ground connections? The negative strap from the battery and underneath the voltage regulator are a couple spots that could get crudded up. After running for a long time, a dirty connection will heat up and get worse than when it's cold.

              Have you checked the voltage while cranking?

              My bike has pod filters, so I don't seem to get the fuel vapor problem mentioned above, but I do get a better start if I just crack the throttle a little bit (no choke) when it's hot.
              '80 SG with motor from a '82 XJ

              Comment


              • #8
                The other suggestions by members are more than likely the issue but next time before you do anything open the gas tank lid and give it a minute. I have seen vapor lock cause this condition before. The gas tank cap vent can get clogged and cause vapor lock.
                To fix the problem one should not make more assumptions than the minimum needed.

                Rodan
                https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=khm6...liHntN91DHjHiS
                1980 G Silverbird
                Original Yamaha Fairfing and Bags
                1198 Overbore kit
                Grizzly 660 ACCT
                Barnett Clutch Springs
                R1 Clutch Fiber Plates
                122.5 Main Jets
                ACCT Mod
                Mac 4-2 Flare Tips
                Antivibe Bar ends
                Rear trunk add-on
                http://s1184.photobucket.com/albums/z329/viperron1/

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by ViperRon View Post
                  The other suggestions by members are more than likely the issue but next time before you do anything open the gas tank lid and give it a minute. I have seen vapor lock cause this condition before. The gas tank cap vent can get clogged and cause vapor lock.
                  +1 Excellent point Ron. Except usually the bike will start running bad and quit. Turning it off and letting it sit a few minutes will usually keep this from happening.
                  Last edited by BA80; 05-01-2014, 09:09 AM.
                  Greg

                  Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.”

                  ― Albert Einstein

                  80 SG Ol' Okie;79 engine & carbs w/pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, Custom Mac 4 into 2 exhaust, ACCT,XS850 final drive,110/90/19 front tire,TKat fork brace, XS750 140 MPH speedometer, Vetter IV fairing, aftermarket hard bags and trunk, LG high back seat, XJ rear shocks.

                  The list changes.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Is it possible that heat has caused all of the fuel in the float bowls to evaporate? If so, then putting the petcock onto 'prime' would fill the bowls without the engine needing to be turned over to activate the vacuum switch and get the bowls full again.....

                    I had a car that did exactly the same thing..le heat from the exhaust manifold caused the float bowl to empty by evaporate and hot starting was a nightmare!
                    XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Hot Fuel

                      Originally posted by James England View Post
                      Is it possible that heat has caused all of the fuel in the float bowls to evaporate? If so, then putting the petcock onto 'prime' would fill the bowls without the engine needing to be turned over to activate the vacuum switch and get the bowls full again.....

                      I had a car that did exactly the same thing..le heat from the exhaust manifold caused the float bowl to empty by evaporate and hot starting was a nightmare!
                      This is a normal occurrence in carbureted engines. When shut off, the fuel in the carburetor(s) can actually boil. This can cause a hard start condition. The fix is to hold the throttle partly open to allow more air in when restarting.

                      This may not be the cause of your (b2kvapor) problem, but is to be considered. Try this to see if it will start when hot.

                      Mike
                      Last edited by MPittma100; 05-01-2014, 07:34 PM.
                      1981 XS1100H Venturer
                      K&N Air Filter
                      ACCT
                      Custom Paint by Deitz
                      Geezer Rectifier/Regulator
                      Chacal Stainless Steel Braided Brake Lines
                      Chrome Front Rotor & Caliper Covers
                      Stebel Nautilus Horn
                      EBC Front Rotors
                      Limie Accent Moves On In 2015

                      Mike

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I tried chock , looked in gas tank to see if I was out of gas. I took the drain bowl plugs out to make sure there was gas in the bowls...and there was... Iam thinkin electrical...
                        78 E

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by jwhughes3 View Post
                          Check battery voltage under load - when the bike is hot the battery may not be carrying the 10.71 volts necessary when the starter is running to fire the TCI. If voltage dips lower it will crank and crank but never start.

                          John
                          BTDT. Still recommend checking battery cranking voltage (not voltage at rest).

                          JW
                          John is in an anonymous city with an Alamo (N29.519227,W-98.678980)

                          Go ahead, click on the bikes - you know you want to...the electrons are ready.
                          '81 XS1100H - "Enterprise"
                          Bob Jones Custom Navy bike: Tkat brace, EBC floating rotors & SS lines, ROX pivot risers, Geezer rectifier, new 3H3 engine

                          "Not all treasure is silver and gold"

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by BA80 View Post
                            I would try just the opposite of what skids said. A lot of people (including me sometimes) experience a similar issue when on long rides most particularly when it's hot outside.

                            We found that just holding the throttle wide open when cranking clears out the fuel vapor that collects in the air filter (air box) because of the heat causing evaporation of the fuel.
                            .
                            I know that cracking the throttle open while using the choke seems counter-productive, but it seems to work.
                            Skids (Sid Hansen)

                            Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              In checking the electrical measure the OMS threw the spark plug caps. With some of the plug caps they internally have spring loaded resister. All I have seen have a screw end that makes connection with the wire. Both of these places can build up corrosion and cause a weak spark. The corrosion ends up increasing resistance when hot and the little bit of condensation when cooling makes contact again. Just measure from plug wire to plug wire on the same coil and look for 15K much more than 20K and the circuit starts to fail. Non resister Champion plugs have similar issues at times also because of cheap construction.
                              To fix the problem one should not make more assumptions than the minimum needed.

                              Rodan
                              https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=khm6...liHntN91DHjHiS
                              1980 G Silverbird
                              Original Yamaha Fairfing and Bags
                              1198 Overbore kit
                              Grizzly 660 ACCT
                              Barnett Clutch Springs
                              R1 Clutch Fiber Plates
                              122.5 Main Jets
                              ACCT Mod
                              Mac 4-2 Flare Tips
                              Antivibe Bar ends
                              Rear trunk add-on
                              http://s1184.photobucket.com/albums/z329/viperron1/

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X