Dragging Clutch, First Gear Lurch from Neutral

[TopCatGr58]

Hey there,

First off, the Phillips screw moves the throwout rod closer or farther away from the throwout bearing which when the lever is pulled, pushes to separate the clutch plates. The shift into 1st gear clunk is normal. However, if the throwout rod isn't far enough in, then the clutches can drag a little which could accentuate the clunk because the gears won't slow their spinning as quickly if they are dragging.

As to the mufflers, putting aftermarket mufflers on will be less restrictive than OEM, and might require rejetting, but you'll want to just ride it and check the plugs first. However, you can plug up the holes in the ends of the OEM ones with either bolts/screws or even a little welding if you have the ability and equipment. The OEM's provide the best OVERALL performance.

T.C.

[bikerphil]

I actually find the shift quality a bit better with the adjustment screw almost 1/2 turn out from light contact. Bob Jones also recommended doing it that way in his XS11 Heaven book. YMMV

[IanDMacDonald]

+1 On what BikerPhil stated above. I think the quarter-turn is just like the starting point just like the carbs. Every bike is different, and more than that was nevessary on my bike for a smooth shift.

[jrm000kc]

Thanks for the tips. I'll definitely try the 1/2 turn and see if it improves shifting. I have the 2nd gear slip problem under heavy throttle and I've noticed lately it'll have a tendency to miss 2nd from 1st. I'll do some experimenting with the adjustment and see what works for me.

I thought about trying to plug the holes. I went to Westlake and bought some toggle bolts but they were too large. A size down was 3/16" and they looked too flimsy to withstand heat/corrosion for very long. If I had a MIG welder I'd definitely cut some sheet metal and get them covered. But since I don't I'm looking at plugs of some kind.

[DiverRay]

jrm000kc:

I thought about trying to plug the holes. I went to Westlake and bought some toggle bolts but they were too large. A size down was 3/16" and they looked too flimsy to withstand heat/corrosion for very long. If I had a MIG welder I'd definitely cut some sheet metal and get them covered. But since I don't I'm looking at plugs of some kind.

Try looking for a large pop rivet. You will need a different tool, but can probably rent or borrow one from a sheet metal shop. We also use a "blind rivet" for installing bolts onto sheet metal. Looks like a pop rivet, but uses a threaded rod to tighten the back side of the rivet.
D0wn5h1ft, try backing the adjustment screw out 1/8 turn at a time. If it's too tight, you will have the hard shift problems. Also, as TC said, the RPM's need to be down, below 1100, in order to shift easily. If you have the idle at 1150 or above, you will probably have problems. I try to keep my idle at 900 to 1000 RPMs.

[jrm000kc]

Threaded rivets should work pretty good-I'll check into it. Thanks for the ideas!